Choose a distance and fire 3-5 rounds at a target and then start adjusting the dot to your point of impact.

Alternately you could get a bore laser, pick a distance, and align the dots.

 

Or go to YouTube and type in “zero red dot sight” and pick one of the many videos. Not a difficult concept.

 

Several YouTube experts have good vids.

 

If it were me, I first line it up as close as possible to my irons at home to get on paper. Then go to the range and shoot it unsupported 2 hand standing. 3 shot groups at 10 yards until its close to centered. Then go to 25y to dial in moving up to 10 shot groups once it looks ok with 3 and 5 shot groups. If I finish with at least 7 of 10 10rings I'm satisfied enough to carry it. Will adjust in subsequent outings if something is off, like maybe my shooting was a little off on zero day. When I can get out to a 50y range I will tweak them a little further, mainly for windage.

In my experience though, those Holosuns new from box should be pretty close at 25y already provided the mounting system is good.

 

If it were me, I first line it up as close as possible to my irons at home to get on paper. Then go to the range and shoot it unsupported 2 hand standing. 3 shot groups at 10 yards until its close to centered.

This ^^^^^

 

I’ll just add that depending on your skill level I’d recommend 5 shot groups for pistol in the event that you happen to throw one you still have a shot grouping to work with

 

Skill level and mastery of fundamentals will really determine how well this goes if you are zeroing unsupported. I am assuming that asking this question, you are new to this.

Watch several of those videos.

Alternately you could get a bore laser, pick a distance, and align the dots.

Many of those laser boresighters are serious crap-- they change position every time you turn it on, so they are not centered or parallel with the bore.

 

For what is it worth, red dots [supposedly] come zeroed from factory...

I personally had a friend shoot with me for comparison.
Maybe start at about 10 yards, shoot 5 shot groups. Make no adjustments.
Go to 15, shoot a couple of 5 shot groups. Shoot slow and accurately. No adjustments.
Go to 20, shoot same 5 shot groups.

Consider adjustments after the 20 yard shots.
Keep track of any adjustments in case you want/need to return to factory zero.

I 'personally' zeroed my red dot to target, I did NOT first align it to my sights.

These are only 'ideas', this worked for me.

Good luck

 

Skill level and mastery of fundamentals will really determine how well this goes if you are zeroing unsupported

Very good point. If you aren't able to shoot decently consistent groups at whatever yardage it's a futile effort because you'll just be chasing a moving target, so to speak. I would try to get at least to 10y if possible. If decent grouping is really non-existent for a shooter at this point in their skill development, personally I would suggest not adjusting anything on a new dot since the factory zero will probably be better anyway. Or else have someone else zero it to get it close enough to start with.

I am probably an odd duck here but I hate zeroing pistols from a rest, mainly because I get awful results compared to just freehanding it. I probably don't know how to do it right. Only tried it in one outing and gave up.

 

Zeroing a pistol is no different than zeroing a rifle, just shorter distance. Yet people make it a mystery. For a defensive handgun (not a bullseye) 20-25 feet mechanical zero might be realistic.

Unlike a battle rifle, there's less "height over bore" to worry about.

Bullets don't travel in straight lines so ANY zero is dynamic.

 

Put gun in a rest. Put the dot on the bulls eye. Fire the gun. Put the dot on the bulls eye. Keep gun steady and adjust dot to where the previous round hit. Red dot zeroed.

 

This is the correct answer. One shot zeroing. I've done this for decades with sights, lasers, and scopes.

 

I am probably an odd duck here but I hate zeroing pistols from a rest, mainly because I get awful results compared to just freehanding it. I probably don't know how to do it right.

That makes two of us. I don't get the results, in terms of precision, that I would expect from a rest. Since I started building pistols, I figured I'd get a "GOOD" quality pistol rest for zeroing a pistol. So, I spent some $$. And got the compact rest from CTK Precision. It is a very nice "bit of kit." Very adjustable.

I've used it many times with mixed results. From what I could tell, the LIGHTER my grip on the gun, the better. But, like you, I'd love to hear about any specific techniques to maximize the precision for consistent results.

Sorry for the thread drift.

 

That makes two of us. I don't get the results, in terms of precision, that I would expect from a rest. Since I started building pistols, I figured I'd get a "GOOD" quality pistol rest for zeroing a pistol. So, I spent some $$. And got the compact rest from CTK Precision. It is a very nice "bit of kit." Very adjustable.

View attachment 1220906
View attachment 1220910

I've used it many times with mixed results. From what I could tell, the LIGHTER my grip on the gun, the better. But, like you, I'd love to hear about any specific techniques to maximize the precision for consistent results.

Sorry for the thread drift.

Very nice. Looks quality and functional!

 

Bore sight it to get it close before you start shooting groups and adjusting at zero range.

 

If it were me, I first line it up as close as possible to my irons at home to get on paper. Then go to the range and shoot it unsupported 2 hand standing. 3 shot groups at 10 yards until its close to centered. Then go to 25y to dial in moving up to 10 shot groups once it looks ok with 3 and 5 shot groups. If I finish with at least 7 of 10 10rings I'm satisfied enough to carry it. Will adjust in subsequent outings if something is off, like maybe my shooting was a little off on zero day. When I can get out to a 50y range I will tweak them a little further, mainly for windage.

In my experience though, those Holosuns new from box should be pretty close at 25y already provided the mounting system is good.

This is what I do too.

 

First, adjust the dot so it sits right atop the front sight when the iron sights are aligned.

Then zero your dot at 10 yards while completely ignoring your iron sights.

Per Gabe Suarez:

With a 10 yard zero using most full powered ammo, [red dot] sights are good for face shots from contact distance out to 25 yards, and body shots out from that regardless of the ammunition type or bullet weight.

 

Once zeroed, don't move the gun when pulling the trigger. Otherwise the dot zero doesn't matter.

See below, ignore the title (that's not what he is trying to say):

 

Laser bore sight. I picked up a cheap universal laser bore sight on amazon and it saves ammo. Usually only a few clicks off from perfection once I'm at the range.

 

First, adjust the dot so it sits right atop the front sight when the iron sights are aligned.

Then zero your dot at 10 yards while completely ignoring your iron sights.

Per Gabe Suarez:

With a 10 yard zero using most full powered ammo, [red dot] sights are good for face shots from contact distance out to 25 yards, and body shots out from that regardless of the ammunition type or bullet weight.

Agreed. I shoot Action Pistol matches and I sight my DeltaPoint equipped G34.5 to impact dead center at 25 yards for longer shots in matches. Twenty five yards allows me to fine tune my POI. That same sight adjustment will blow the center out of a 3” dot at ten yards. Suarez is right. 😉

 

A rest is a good start. I use sandbags and start at 7 yards and go until I get consistent grouping at 15. I see a lot of shooters who adjust while shooting without a rest. And they go through a lot of ammo and rarely get good results. If you have a great grip that never varies and can always pull the trigger straight back without moving the pistol, then shooting without a rest is fine. Some shooters can, but most people can't do that. And they make adjustments back and forth because they don't grip the same way or with the same amount of pressure each time and they don't always pull the trigger without moving the pistol.

A rest helps to take the shooter out of the picture and provide more consistent results that confirm zero. Then when the shooter removes the rest, and the results aren't as accurate/consistent, the shooter can then focus on grip and trigger pull.

 

I use a laser bore sight, the sightmark lasers are bore sights you chamber like a round so the display down the barrel. I like that better than the universal options you stick in the end of the barrel. Batteries for the bore sight are cheaper than ammo!
That gets me close enough to start the process.
Pistols I start at 12m, which usually comes back to zero at about 45m.
Long guns start at 25m (which is pretty close to zero at 125m)
All depending on the gun/caliber/quality of ammunition.

 

Zero is only good at supported, controlled, rest, using ammo you zero with, and at a set distance.

Once you shoot unsupported, free hand, many variables come into play, including lighting, body position, and your heart rate. You can get to the point where you are "chasing the zero" and getting silly with it. It's good to understand what you are doing, and the purpose you are doing it for.

I use a laser bore sight, the sightmark lasers are bore sights you chamber like a round so the display down the barrel. I like that better than the universal options you stick in the end of the barrel. Batteries for the bore sight are cheaper than ammo!

If you can get the tool to point at the same spot every time you insert it, you got lucky. Test it against your iron sights , take it out, reinsert it and see if it's close - or if it points to a different spot each time.

 

Zero is only good at supported, controlled, rest, using ammo you zero with, and at a set distance.

Once you shoot unsupported, free hand, many variables come into play, including lighting, body position, and your heart rate. You can get to the point where you are "chasing the zero" and getting silly with it. It's good to understand what you are doing, and the purpose you are doing it for.



If you can get the tool to point at the same spot every time you insert it, you got lucky. Test it against your iron sights , take it out, reinsert it and see if it's close - or if it points to a different spot each time.

🍀!
Not certain the boresight hits exactly the same every time - I use it once, to get on paper and then fine tune with whatever optics I am using with live rounds- it may not be useful as a fine tuning tool, but it seems to be good at the short distances to start the process (get on the paper).
I can easily align the boresight dot with the red dot/laser and than move to live ammunition.
It all works better supported (for me) than unsupported (at least first few steps). That gives me recourse if my unsupported shooting differs (to look at my inputs - as you have posted - can affect poi pretty big - especially in the longer range engagements).

Aligning the TLR8a with the RMR and the irons gives me a pretty sound final result on the G45.
My practical test is with the local armadillo population, and it seems to be working.

On my carbines I like more light than the 8a, and EOTechs mostly, but I use a Holosun on my .22lr and it works really well.
Here is a pic of one of the AR15s (EOTech and TLR2HL) and my .22lr (Tlr8a, Surefire 300, Holosun 510C, Yankee Hill suppressor) - all sighted same process.

 

Sighting a rifle is much easier, requires nothing IMO. Easy to shoot from a rest, to properly align sights is just short of idiot proof with 4 points of contact including your cheek weld.

Even if you're not on paper, as long as you can see the dust then you should be able to get on paper pretty fast.

 

Sighting a rifle is much easier, requires nothing IMO. Easy to shoot from a rest, to properly align sights is just short of idiot proof with 4 points of contact including your cheek weld.

Even if you're not on paper, as long as you can see the dust then you should be able to get on paper pretty fast.

Why is a handgun different, or harder? Same exact (physics) principles apply. Don't overthink it.

You don't do one thing with the rifle then change to a different method with the pistol.

 

If someone’s fundamentals and accuracy are so poor that they are unable to effectively zero a red dot standing and unsupported than are they really even able to reap the benefits that a red dot offers when put to use in training etc?

 

Still easier than lining up two separate iron sights into one single focal plane while letting the target be a blur...

 

Make sure to sight in your irons before mounting red dot