If I recall I used a plastic punch and nylon faced hammer. If it had presented me with any difficulty I don't recall it.

 

I received my set of Williams Fire Sights today, and they look to be of very good quality. Removal of the front sight fastener requires a 5/64" allen wrench, but if you don't have one a 2.0mm allen wrench is it's equivalent.

Dayam if some gorilla at Ruger didn't put that front sight screw in with a freakin' 6 foot cheater bar, so I had to break out the heat gun to carefully heat up the area, and on the second try it popped loose. There was some type of thread locker applied to fhe fastener but it wasn't the dreaded red Loctite...it was creamish in color and was quite rubbery, taking a bit of effort (with a small stainless wire brush and a single edged razorblade) to remove from that tiny arsed fine screw.

I used a small amount of purple Loctite 222 on the screw threads and just snugged it up, and I'll let it cure for 24 hours before I go all operator with it

I've yet to decide on a sight pusher that would be up to the task of removing and replacing the rear sight assembly without mangling the receiver, so I haven't undertaken the rear sight removal yet. In the meantime the new front sight was like adding an illuminated red neon light, 'heaps better than the blacked out OEM front sight, and works quite well even without the green rear sight installed, which might be something to ponder if one thought they might like the idea of a fiber optic front sight in combination with a black rear sight:

For those interested I ordered the sight set from Tandemkross, for $49.99.

 

I received my set of Williams Fire Sights today, and they look to be of very good quality. Removal of the front sight fastener requires a 5/64" allen wrench, but if you don't have one a 2.0mm allen wrench is it's equivalent.

Dayam if some gorilla at Ruger didn't put that front sight screw in with a freakin' 6 foot cheater bar, so I had to break out the heat gun to carefully heat up the area, and on the second try it popped loose. There was some type of thread locker applied to fhe fastener but it wasn't the dreaded red Loctite...it was creamish in color and was quite rubbery, taking a bit of effort (with a small stainless wire brush and a single edged razorblade) to remove from that tiny arsed fine screw.

I used a small amount of purple Loctite 222 on the screw threads and just snugged it up, and I'll let it cure for 24 hours before I go all operator with it

I've yet to decide on a sight pusher that would be up to the task of removing and replacing the rear sight assembly without mangling the receiver, so I haven't undertaken the rear sight removal yet. In the meantime the new front sight was like adding an illuminated red neon light, 'heaps better than the blacked out OEM front sight, and works quite well even without the green rear sight installed, which might be something to ponder if one thought they might like the idea of a fiber optic front sight in combination with a black rear sight:
View attachment 708642
For those interested I ordered the sight set from Tandemkross, for $49.99.

I installed just a front fiber optic sight on my 22/45 Lite and it made all the difference in the world.
I only bought the front because I did not really see a need for a FO rear, but thats just personal preference.

As far as the screw being so tight, that is probably because the early Lite's had a lot of complaints about the front sight falling off during the first range trips. Mine was one of those, but I caught it when it loosened up and the screw still had a couple thread engaged. I used blue locktite on mine and did not come loose again, yet it was not a major task to get it loose again to install my FO sight.

 

That's where I picked mine up from. They are fantastic sights. If you haven't added a Volquartsen trigger kit to your list you are doing yourself a disservice.

 

Despite it being very common and almost an immediate requirement by some to do so (how many times have we read here on GT about the guy who's new Gen4 Glock 19 was in jail but in the meantime he'd already gotten the ZEV trigger kit, Ghost connector, marine cups, titanium striker, TiN coated controls & pins, etc. for it?), I'm not the type to automatically "enhance" my handguns directly or anytime thereafter I purchase them with aftermarket triggers or trigger groups, springs, etc. If I find anything objectionable in any of my pistol's trigger mechanisms it's mostlikely something that can be observed with an inspection, and often only requires the removal of a burr and/or the polishing and the application of the proper lubrication to the associated interacting mating surfaces to completely alleviate or improve any negative issue.

Not once have I ever replaced the trigger or trigger assembly in any of my handguns with aftermarket, and I've found that I do just fine without them. In thinking about it perhaps it has something to do with me having played the piano for 55 years, which has afforded me the means to easily respond to different pressure input and control every action of each finger on both hands smoothly and accordingly either individually or simultaneously.

When I took my NC CHL I was handed a bone stock Gen3 Glock 17, a model which I'd never held or fired in my life, and sent 30 rounds downrange at the distances requested. Thanks to the rather robust indoor range ventilation system the target was annoyingly swaying back and forth from left to right as I was trying to aim...I was pissed, LOL:

After I was done shooting the ex-Marine instructor asked, "So, you like the Glock pistols eh?!" to which I replied, "I don't know...this is the first time I've ever shot one." He gave me the deer in the headlights look and replied, "Well, I would have liked to have said that I trained you how to shoot, but..." and smiled. I returned the smile and said "Thanks!" then reeled in my target and got my cert.

Heck some people still can't shoot well despite owning all kinds of high priced firearms or their handgun's with all the "recommended enhancements" because they've never been shown or know of the fundementals and basics of shooting like breathing control, the proper stance, etc.

 

Understood, however the improved trigger makes the pistol more enjoyable to shoot (just like better sights) and that's why I do it. If I handed you the pistol above you wouldn't want to give it back

A good trigger makes me smile, a fantastic trigger is a thing of joy.

 

A set of Williams Fire Sights are enroute for my MK IV 22/45 Lite pistol and I was wondering if anyone here has installed these or similar sights on their Ruger pistol, and if so could you please share your experiences regarding the removal of your pistol's original rear sight and the new rear sight install? Unlike the previous version of these sights which required only a screwdriver to remove and replace the "guts" of the sight, this is the updated version that requires the removal of the entire rear sight assembly from it's dovetail in the receiver.

I have virtually no experience with these Ruger .22 pistols, and during my information quests about the installation of similar sights I've read stories ranging from the original rear sight practically falling out to others having to apply excessive force just to get them to budge.

Since the receivers of these pistols are cylindrical it would tend to make me believe that the use of a particular type sight pusher would be advisable (one that would prevent the receiver from rotating as force was applied 90° to it's circumference) vs. the vice, brass punch and hammer routine. The only sight pusher I own is for Glock pistols, so maybe it's time I got myself a universal type, or...?

Suggestions or advice?

Thanks in advance

I have installed a Volquartsen rear on my MK IV .22/45 Target. I don't recall having any problems. I did not use a sight pusher. You know we changed and adjusted sights for a long, long time before anybody came up with the needlessly expensive sight pusher, right?

People who find them very loose or very hard to get out may have the sight with 2 set screws holding it in place - loosening those up before removal is a good idea, as is tightening them (and putting on some blue Loctite) after installation.

One quick Google search and here's a video specifically of a guy installing Williams Fire Sights on a .22/45 lite.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M3A4wYjaOSs

Looks incredibly easy, since you don't have to replace the rear sight base - maybe a 5-minute job.

 

Thanks Bren, but that video, like others I'd seen were showing the removal and installation of the older style Williams Fire Sights that as you noted were just a screw out screw in replacement of the sight's guts. Not knowing why Williams no longer manufactured the older style type I figured it'd be a safer bet to purchase the newest offering which is a complete rear sight.

I of course remember the old days of brass or aluminum punch and hammer, in fact the old days were not that many months ago removing the rear sight from the S&W 5906 that I restored! It's not my preferred method but with care it can be undertaken without damaging the host. And this is one of my concerns with this Ruger 22/45 Lite pistol; holding onto the round receiver adequately and not damaging the finish in the process. I'll get there!

Thanks for chiming in

 

Owners of Ruger Mark pistols have been raggin' on Ruger since 1949 about how the target front sights shoot loose and the screws fly off to hide where no one can find 'em. Yes, they did use "red" Loctite in the past, but the assembler didn't clean the oil residue off the threads, both internal and external, so the Loctite was useless. Can't say what they are using now, but here's what I much prefer:

Haven't had any of these screws walk off the job so far. Still gotta clean off the oil residue in the threads. I don't recommend using nail polish, too embarrassing to purchase.

 

Good morning Drew,
I just had the pleasure of replacing the front and rear sight on a MK4 22/45 lite at the shop I work at. We have a number of sight pushers but as you stated NONE of these are set up for a round receiver. I removed the two set screws and then placed the barrel in a leather lined machinist vise and rotated it back so the rail on top of the barrel was resting against the leather and then with a brass punch and hammer pushed the rear sight out. It was rather tight but went well. Let me know if you have removed yours yet.
Bud

 

And a good afternoon to you 'Bud, thanks for taking the time to reply! I'm glad to hear that you got that OEM rear sight out and the new one in without issue. I'll probably be using the same method that you used, that is, once I get myself a decent (large) vise, a set of appropriate soft jaws, and a decent workbench; I won't even attempt it otherwise. I've seen a couple of good size vises at a local pawn shop, either of which would clean up nice, so I guess it's time to finally get one of them because I'd like to get that new rear sight installed on the 22/45 Lite, and will soon be assembling an AR pistol upper, which definately requires a sturdy vise along with a sturdy bench.

The latter got me thinking as I was sitting here typing this reply, so I went off screen for a moment and ordered a 60" x 30" x 34" fixed height metal workbench with a 1¾" maple butcherblock top and a lower shelf from Global Industrial, who's products we used alot of at work. I didn't think the price was too bad at $259 and $49 respectively, shipped for just over a hundred. 'A bit of money, but having a solid table to work on is imperative.

I didn't have these problems when I was working at Grumman!

Now I need to order some AR specific build tools...I guess it never ends does it! Well, it keeps me off the streets - hahahaha

Take care.

 

Anybody know the Allen key size for those 2 little set screws? I tried 1/16” and still didn’t catch any screw?