Where do you have the optic mounted? If it's all the way forward (around T-14 on your receiver), the FOV won't matter.

See where my T1 is mounted:

 

As far as FOV is concerned: EOTech>Aimpoint PRO>Strikefire.

 

Are you shooting with BOTH eyes open?

 

If you're shooting with both eyes open as intended, it's faster than just about anything.

I spent 3+ years staring through an Aimpoint day and night, in all weather conditions while clearing buildings after spending a lifetime using irons. The Aimpoint is faster.

The Eotech is no faster and sometimes can be a little slower if you're not used to the dot/ring.

 

Well it's kind of hard to compare them as the Aimpoint does have a larger opening! My Strikefire works just fine in CQB conditions!:upeyes:

 

In truly close CQB, like inside a small house, even the EO is kinda clumsy on a 16' gun.


But its faster than irons.


That said, I prefer a laser for inside the house CQB.

 

That said, I prefer a laser for inside the house CQB.

If you're that close, point shooting is quicker than any laser. Visible laser could also give away your position. IR lasers obviously have their advantages in specific circumstances.

To OP get rid of that strikeforce yesterday if it is for serious use.

 

I have a Vortex Strikefire on a DoubleStar AR and I have a Aimpoint Pro on an LE6920.
To be honest the only difference I can tell is the covers are easier to close on the PRO.
Don't get me wrong, if I had to choose I'd go with the PRO because of the battery life and reputation.

 

If you're that close, point shooting is quicker than any laser. Visible laser could also give away your position. IR lasers obviously have their advantages in specific circumstances.

To OP get rid of that strikeforce yesterday if it is for serious use.

A laser will only give you away if you don't know how to use it. It should not be on, unless you're pointing that gun directly at the threat.


Point shooting, is, IMO, much less useful in a situation where you're accountable for every round. I'll take the fraction of a fraction of a second slower to fire a laser aimed round, than a point shot round. Seen too many go errant.


Also, while point shooting is good in distances measured in single feet, lasers are good to 15 or so, and RDS are faster further out.

 

I agree with AK Stick. Especially since point shooting when you have a pile of friendlies nearby or even in the same room is not exactly optimal.

Muzzle awareness and knowing who is where definitely matters.

 

I'm inclined to try an Aimpoint PRO and also mount a light and laser for close to medium range. What laser would be optimal? Is there a good compact light-laser combination, maybe one that includes a double pressure switch so they could be switched separately from a fore grip? What do you like best?

 

Unless you have quite a bit of training with it, skip the laser. It's hard enough to master the optic AND the light. One step at a time.

When you've run 2-3 carbine courses including low light with the optic and light and actually have something resembling a clue, consider adding the vis laser. By that time, you will know which one you need.

Otherwise you're going to have a severe case of switchology in the event everything goes to crap. I use an H-1 and Surefire mounted, no vis laser, primarily because for 3 years I used an IR laser with NVGs and until the last year had no vis laser option, we mostly used it IR only, and the majority of the time, we were swarming a target close-in with white light, not IR and NVGs.

I detest tape switches but a laser is one of the few times i'll use one. Cram it between the 12 and 9 or 3 rails in the angle and secure it, it's usable and out of the way. Our IR lasers had the paddle type switch and my Surefire ran off a clicky, definitely my preference as I've destroyed about a dozen tape switches that weren't secured overly well.

 

+1 also harder to have a light ND with a push button vs tape switch.

 

Listen to Stick and Murph, for they know what they are talking about.

That said, I still run a tape switch for the Surefire on my SBR, because the light is too much in the way when I reposition it to use a click switch.

:whistling:

 

+1 also harder to have with a push button vs tape switch.

By "a light ND", do you mean an unintended turn-on of the light?

Listen to Stick and Murph, for they know what they are talking about.

I'm sure they do, I've read their posts for years and appreciate everyone's input.

Could be fodder for a separate thread but we're on a roll and the OP probably won't mind....

I see Surefire has several weapon lights from ~200 to 500 lumens. Nowadays, 200 lumens seems less up to the task, particularly outdoors. For the money the handheld Surefire Fury at 500 lumens isn't bad. Mounted on a rail would the standard tailcap switch on the Fury be a reasonable option. What Surefire would you like better?

 

SBR's are their own issue due to size, kind of like running a J-frame with a speedloader, some changes are required.


For a severe case of switch/sightology, at one point during my time in the Air Force on more or less a daily basis (I switched between regular rifleman, grenadier and machine gunner as needed, sometimes daily) my issued M4 had three sets of iron sights (Front/Matech, leaf and quadrant), M68 CCO (Aimpoint), two types of IR sight (PEQ-2 and IR laser on the quadrant sight) with a paddle and a tape switch respectively, and a Surefire in a LaRue LT606-1 on the left with a clicky-switch. Toss in the M203 with it's own firing system underneath the gun....

And I spent pretty much 12 hrs per day five days per week running this stuff and I'd still get a mental pause remembering WTF I was doing if it'd been a few days since I'd had an M203. Since normally BUIS/Surefire/PEQ2 was the only thing on the rifle.

Simple is good. Scope, light, irons, sling. PRACTICE.

edit 1:
With lights, 200 is the minimum these days if you're starting out new. I've used 60, 65 and 90 lumens and realistically inside one room they get the job done. 200 is better for big rooms (over bedroom size) and outdoors. The 500 lumen is insanely spectacular and what I wish I'd had in 2006. I very nearly shot one of my own guys in 2006 and 65 lumens was enough to ID him at 2 yards range, but 500 for sweeping the (very crowded and dark) exterior objective would have been nicer.

The Fury single-stage with standard tailcap in a LT606-1 would be my personal choice these days. When I update my arrangement for duty use in a few months, that's what I'm going to (from my old, reliable and trusted G-3 at 90 lumens).

Edit 2:
sergeant i rode out while contemplating employment options with his department with had a handheld Fury (500l) I had E2D (120l). We stop and light up a carful of interesting types. I zap them with the E2D at about 10 yards and they knew I was lighting up one guy, the splash sort of illuminated the rest.

Sergeant lights his Fury and all four occupants straight-up thought they were being abducted by aliens....

 

By "a light ND", do you mean an unintended turn-on of the light?

Yes, its a giant "please kill me" beacon at night. Even worse if you and your enemy have NVG capability.



That said, I do run tape switches occasionally, just with care.