You paid good money for this..
Send it in....

 

Have you checked if the ejector rod is screwed in tight? Just try it by hand holding the cylinder and twisting the rod counterclockwise (left had threads)

With a new gun this is about as far as I'd tinker with it before sending it back to the S&W hospital for diagnosis and repair.

 

Ejector rod is tight, and strokes freely. Lock up is tight, other than the sticking cylinder, and weak trigger return, it is a nice pistol. Changing the springs etc is not a problem (I changed some out on my 686-6 7")
I need to get some feeler gages to see what the forcing cone gap is, but it feels like zero. Thats why I am thinking too many shims in the cylinder.

 

Mine did that too. Had to buy a special tool to tighten the ejector rod. I put blue Loctite on it. Don't force it out! You risk crane damage.

 

When I say it is sticking, I mean that it take a push with two fingers as opposed to one. But not where I have to force it.

 

Can you take it back to the shop you got it at, maybe they have a gunsmith that can adjust it fpr you.

 

I hope you have not been “Hollywood” flipping out the cylinder, back closed? That could do damage to weaker cylinder, link thing...

 

Bought it Online from BDU. Larry no Mickey Spilane action flips

 

Had A chance to look it over VERY closely. cleaned the inside very well, and relubed all pivot, contact and sear points as well as springs (rust prevention) with Go juice. and the cylinder was still about the same. BUT the trigger pull is very smooth, nice clean breaks, and staging.
Flipped the revolver over and saw the forward edge of the Cylinder release button, was impinging on the raised line in front of the cylinder's rear face. Took a hunch pulled the release button off and used the stud to open the cylinder. Easy as you please. I will use a buffing wheel/ dremel polishing disk with some flitz to remove a few thousandths off the front of the button. I am going to put a high polish on her anyway.
I cannot wait to take this one to the range, I have high expectations.

 

Sounds like you have it figured out, great.

 

I have a work sharp that was the ticket for relieving the nose of the latch button. Everything is polishing up nicely. Just need the range to open up.

 

There is no reason you should ever have to “tweak” a brand new gun right out of the box. It needs to go back for warranty service at the manufacturer or gun shops expense.

 

For most people yes that is true. For me, detail cleaning, polishing, making the sweet load, is as much fun as shooting tight groups.

 

I see nothing has changed with Smith and Wesson Revolvers. I’ve only had two new in the box S&W Revos but both were QC nightmares.

 

The frame, cylinder, and barrel are very nice. On the hammer/trigger I pulled the side plate off, and I put a dab of Simichrome on the double action, and single action sear engagement points, and dry fired it for a few hundred rounds, then cleaned all the polish out with brake cleaner, and lubed all the pivot points, trigger slide, springs, and sear points, with Geissele Go Juice, as well as changed the trigger return spring to 14 lbs (tried the Wolff mainspring but just like my other 686 it would not drive the firing pin out hard enough). Now the trigger pull is a little lighter but very smooth. Took it to the range today, I was very impressed with the way it shot, I had very high expectations, and this revolver exceeded them.