Consider an extended version to make it easier to manipulate.

https://www.amazon.com/Extended-Stainless-Models-Generations-Excluding/dp/B00KJMXV8W

 

WOW I didn't know about this part! Thanks so much!

 

I'd have to see a vid of how you do it and show you a vid how I do it. My way is super easy

 

My way is pure fumble. Just can't grip it.

 

Assuming you're taking the slide off the frame, the little tabs are the 'slide lock'. It's actually one piece on a stiff as hell spring.

Assuming, again, you're talking about pulling down on the slide lock 'tabs' while your palm pushes up on the trigger guard and not forward, like you're bracing your palm there to pull down on the tabs?

 

"...you're talking about pulling down on the slide lock 'tabs' while your palm pushes up on the trigger guard and not forward, like you're bracing your palm there to pull down on the tabs?..."
Yes the problem is ergonomic, the frame must go forward if the slide goes backward. The slide locks come down, but this forces the frame, ie trigger guard, UP not Forward. So my left hand is trying to pull the tabs down while 90 deg. off pulling the frame forward. Can't be done. Can I find a way to put that forward motion on my right hand while pulling the slide rearward??? Nothing to push on. I know men with stronger hands can do this blindfolded but I can't with arthritis unless I put it in a vise. I hate putting plastic in a vise.

 

How do you hold the pistol with the right hand when doing this?

I've found it's easiest to grip it like in this pic and it makes it very simple to pull it back slightly with one hand and pulling down while using the tool or extended slide lock with the other

 

I'll have to practice that, good advice, but takes a strong wrist. A pix is worth a thousand words. No I had been "overhanding" (is that a word?) the slide with no thumb on the grip. I knew I was doing something wrong.... but I'll buy that extended slide lock today. Many thanks to y'all for advice! Greatly appreciated!

 

You definitely want to get where you can pull the slide back with your strong hand (what you write with) while holding the gun at the same time...with that one hand. It frees up your support hand to press down on the slide lock tabs. Extended slide lock would probably be beneficial to you.

This dude does a pretty good job with his explanation of holding the gun while pulling slide back with the same hand.

 

Excellent photo - that's the way I've done it since day one and how I teach students to do it. The only problem is that initially, they pull back to far and re-set the gun. It doesn't take too long and they have the hang of it.

 

Are you aware that it can be done one side at a time?

 

I didn't know that...cool you posted it.

 

Hello LadyG! I'm sorry to hear of your troubles, but please know that you're not alone. I'm similarly blessed with severe RA and originally had issues myself with removing the slide of my Glocks using the factory slide stop, which just didn't offer me enough real estate for my weak fingers to engage, even when trying to operate it one side at a time.

I knew that I would need an extended slide stop, and found both straight and angled varieties available. Through observation I believed that the angled extended slide stop variety like the one shown below would work best for me, and it did, so now each of my 3 Glocks have them installed:

The above is available from RockYourGlock for $11.95: http://www.rockyourglock.com/custom/RYG-ESL.htm

Please note that other manufacturers offer similar items for less money, so shop around at Glockmeister, Lone Wolf Distributors, etc. if you like to engage in comparative shopping

I also found that in regards to pulling the slide back slightly prior to operating the slide lock, that I had problems doing so with the generally prescribed method shown below from a previous post:

The above method requires the use of too much finger strength for me to use and maintain, which also then due to the position of my left in relation to my right hand makes operating the slide lock awkward, so through my own experimentation I found that the method below works much easier for me:

In the above image I'm simply squeezing my left hand as if making a fist, which places the pistol in a position that better allows me the means to then very comfortably operate the slide lock with my right hand. This in combination with the angled slide lock makes disassembly of my Glocks a much easier experience.

I've thankfully managed to overcome my difficulties with this issue, and I hope you'll be successful too

 

Although I don't have arthritis, I've gone to extended slide locks on my wider-framed G30SF and G30Gen4. I was always struggling with the stock width slide locks on those models (and a G21SF when I had one).

 

Just a thought ...

Trying to manipulate the slide and frame at the same time, holding the slide retracted approx 1/8", can be difficult for some folks.

However, this manipulation can also be done one-handed with just a gentle pushing effort, normally holding the grip frame of the gun.

Try pressing the muzzle end of the barrel OF THE EMPTY GUN easily straight downward onto a hard surface, like the top of a bench or table, until the barrel and slide moves back that 1/8" of an inch relative to the frame. Pretty much when you feel the gun stop moving forward against the table or bench top. The slide ought to have moved approx the 1/8" to the rear needed for removing pressure off the slide lock lever.

Then, holding the frame down in that position (using the gentle downward pushing force of your grip to keep the RSA lightly compressed, and the slide in the same slightly retracted position relative to the frame) ... you can manipulate the slide lock lever. Then, with the slide lock released, slowly lifting the frame upward, while holding the slide/barrel's muzzle end on the table/bench top. This effectively moves the slide/barrel "forward" off the (rearward rising) frame. Hold the slide/barrel with your non-dominant hand so it doesn't fall over as you "lift" your frame in your strong hand.

In other words, you're able to use the table/bench surface as a second hand to retract and hold the slide rearward that little 1/8" ... or reduce the more complex tension required of your string hand if you grasp and try to press the slide and frame in opposite directions, and hold them only far enough to release the slide lock.

Much easier to do than to write about.

 

It is very neat - but I don't have the same luck even watching it several times. Unless I hold the first side down, it rides back up when the other side is pushed down, (teeter-totter) even under the pressure the forward slide.. Still, even with that, it can certainly help some that struggle with the standard process.

Ya, you may need to put a little thumb pressure on the first end of the slide lock you push down to mitigate the teeter-totter effect. But this is much easier than pulling both ends down at the same time for someone who's impaired. It takes a lot less dexterity. And doing this, you'll be using one hand at each end of the lock, not one hand at both ends.

So, for a right-hander, right hand squirts the slide back by grabbing frame and slide. Left thumb lowers left side of lock, then applied light pressure to keep it down. Then right hand lowers right side of lock.

 

Thank you - I appreciate the follow up.

 

Or
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/440468/gtul-glock-slide-removal-tool

 

The only reason to take it down is to clean it. Does anyone clean their Glocks any more?

 

A clean Glock is a happy Glock?

 

I to am having trouble at 68 with those Ritus Boys, and Arthur is the worst. LOL
I have been using the yellow plastic tool for about a year now. I have not gone to the extended release yet, the tool takes care of it for me.
I have been using the thumb on back strap fingers over top method.
I used to put index finger in trigger guard thumb on barrel, and didn't like it.
Good luck, and I hope you are able to find something on here that works.
One thing you can shoot a Glock for a long time between cleaning if you have to.

 

Would a tool like this help?

Slide Removal Tool T1088 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKR7L2U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aBAqybFVSBAQS

I recently saw this advertised on a few sites. I didn't think too much of it at the time, but given your problem it might be the key.

 

Here is a picture of the tool I mentioned above. Not sure if it really works or not. It has pretty decent Amazon reviews though.

 

I've been practicing Sciolist's "one at a time" method. While I don't have any issue doing it the normal way, some people I know struggle with it. His works very well and no tools needed, nor sore fingers necessary.

 

Swapping recoil springs in 15* weather is more irritating than cleaning the gun, especially with tired hands.

Man, isn't it one of life's little mysteries how real cold can turn even smooth edges of metal gun parts into cutting edges when trying to fumble finger them with numb fingers?

 

One interesting aspect of shooting in the cold is observing the results of having your fundamentals deteriorate. There's a pretty big gap between the extent to which I'm impaired and my perception of that extent. So my expectations get out of alignment with reality.

Observation should make impairments clear in the present tense, but it does not always work that way. One thing that really jumps out is the importance of index on the gun at the draw. With reduced tactile perception, I don't have feeling in my hands to corroborate what I'm seeing in the sights. Splits on hardcover and danger targets are especially strange. I can feel myself getting reactive and tense.

So I'm hoping for a relatively dry winter. I want to try and keep shooting a mix of paper and steel all the way through, instead of going over to all steel, and all coarse sight pictures. After a couple months of that, I forget how to transition between coarse and fine.