The Cerakote has increased the thickness in the slide channels. Remove the slide, remove the barrel, and remove the striker. This will allow you to cycle the slide back and forth on the frame without it catching on anything. Apply some tooth paste to the rail channels, then install the slide on the frame and work it back a forth for a while. You should feel the slide free up and run smooth. Once it does, clean everything up, lube it, and reassemble everything. That should fix it right up.

 

The sooner the Glock gets painted and dressed up, sent off to a beauty pageant so it can win the malfunction contest, then the sooner you can start looking at it like a TOOL and not some piece of bling.

Hand cycle it a few hundred times to break the rails in, and hope you don't have issues elsewhere.

 

Dose it feel sticky or just not enough room
I've done cerakote for a couple of years now

 

Did they cerakote the rails?
If you use your thumb nail dose it feel like you could dig in to the coating?

 

They did cerakote the rails. I polished some of it off, but there was some build up of cerakote near the front rail. Now it is better, but it feels like it is getting hung up at the very back end.

 

The rail tabs should have been taped off
It will help if you get jewlers rouse and put a tiny bit on the rail tabs, just on the inside part.
Then rack it a hundred times or so. Then take care to clean it all off. But I would only try that if it doesn't get looser after racking it a hundred times dry.

 

Dose it feel soft at all? If the catalyst mix is wrong the coating can be soft and cause sticking

 

Hey so I just got my gun back from being cerakoted just the slide and barrel and the coating is coming off where the metal meet after shooting only 50 rounds just wondering if that’s normal bc I’ve heard it’s supposed to be the best/ strongest coating for guns and a little at that fact

 

Shoot a couple of hundred rounds through it. It will make it better I am sure.

 

I agree with rincar. Take about 200 rounds to the range and shoot it. But only after you clean it and lube it. The problem I have with cerakote, is that it adds thickness to working guns. And can turn them into paper weights........ untill the cerakote is worn off. It may take more than the 200 rounds. But keep cleaning it when before and after you shoot it. Eventually it will wear off. Then you can trust it for home defense or self defense carry.
Colt made guns for the Marines called M45A1 that started out as cerakote, but got switched to ionbond. Because the finish with some of the guns made them unreliable. Colt turned in a couple thousand guns to be resold to the public, from the military. The cerakote would flake off and jam up the works. As long as they were kept clean and they got shot enough they were ok. But going into harms way with a gun not broken in was a problem.
Dont count on a cerakote gun to function without testing it. Dont just put it into a holster. Or try to count on it for self defense. Without proper break in.

 

I agree with rincar. Take about 200 rounds to the range and shoot it. But only after you clean it and lube it. The problem I have with cerakote, is that it adds thickness to working guns. And can turn them into paper weights........ untill the cerakote is worn off. It may take more than the 200 rounds. But keep cleaning it when before and after you shoot it. Eventually it will wear off. Then you can trust it for home defense or self defense carry.
Colt made guns for the Marines called M45A1 that started out as cerakote, but got switched to ionbond. Because the finish with some of the guns made them unreliable. Colt turned in a couple thousand guns to be resold to the public, from the military. The cerakote would flake off and jam up the works. As long as they were kept clean and they got shot enough they were ok. But going into harms way with a gun not broken in was a problem.
Dont count on a cerakote gun to function without testing it. Dont just put it into a holster. Or try to count on it for self defense. Without proper break in.

A much cheaper option to running 200+ rounds through a barrel (That will end up having to be replaced because they burned it up) is to get 120 grit sand paper, put some gun oil on the rails and sand them. If cerakote is actually done right, it only adds microns of thickness. Someone who sucks at cerakote wont tape off certain areas or use a plug kit. I don't do "bling" jobs.

 

There's no doubting that it's the Cerakote build-up.
It's part of the cost of doing Cerakote.

I like the toothpaste (lapping compound) trick mentioned above.
Just keep racking the slide until it goes into battery normally.

Then (of course) wash out the toothpaste and lube the slide grooves.

 

Check where the barrel locks up into the slide as well. Based on where you are showing how the slide is hanging up, that is about the point at which the barrel begins moving to lock up with the slide. Might have a little excess Cerakote there that is hanging you up.

 

Yep.... the Cerakote is the culprit... make sure the frame and slide rails are clear of Cerakote, as well as where the barrel mating surfaces are. It just needs some clean up and some cycles to break in.

 

Cerakote on glock rails isn't going to cause this. I've been doing this quite some time. As mentioned above, and I have done this a while back... is that the inside of your slide has too much coating on it when the barrel rests. Take some sand paper ( 300grit or so) and sand the inside top of your slide and the sides just above where your recoil spring would rest. The ones you have to be careful with on the rails is 1911s and older sigs. Tight tolerances on those bad fuggers

 

I did one cerakote job, on a 1911 .22 I built. Ended up blasting it back off and parkerizing the frame because Cerakote just builds up too thick. You need a a skilled finisher to get it right. I skipped the super important step of straining out the lumps through a filter and ruined my job. Also, lumps aside, I just got it too thick in spots like the trigger ways, so my trigger wouldn't reset.

In this case, the gun probably just needs some work on a trouble spot and it will work again. Your pictures aren't enough to see it, but I suspect the ejection port area is tight where the barrel locks to the slide. (assuming the guy didn't spray a bunch of cerakote on the slide rails).

 

I had my frame cerakoted and the rails were also done. No issues.

 

 

Application and surface prep is key.

Cerakote can be very good when done well.

Curing is important - I have let my pieces sit for several weeks before using.

 

One of the reasons old 1911's worked well in the muck of battle, is the rather loose fit of the parts. A few grains pf dirt still have room to exist without binding up.
Reducing that room in some areas with Cerakoting won't make any difference, in other areas it can start giving malfunctions as soon as things get dirty.
Since Glocks are extremely reliable and durable in stock form, coating makes no sense on a serious Glock.
For me, a beautiful gun is one that keeps working regardless of how dirty/scratched/ dinged it is.

 

I tried a polishing compound mixed with Lucas CLP. Removed the barrel and the. Applied the solution to the cerakoted slide and ran the slide back and forth a hundred times or so. Then gave everything a thorough cleaning/lubing. Worked like a charm. Only reason I used this solution vs toothpaste is because my wife buys boujee toothpaste. I give her enough to gripe about lol. I imagine the toothpaste trick would work the same. Just introduces a fine amount of soft grit.