Confirming my level of ignorance is such that I am not entitled to even key the name Brown*** (see? Forum has rejected my input) what are the differences between the Series 70 and 80? And why does Series 80 get the hate, and is that hate deserved?
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I have fallen into the Tisas bandwagon, but my SR1911, an impulse buy after trying one at the range, has been a real treat and treasure. I don’t know the internals, and when purchased, I was blissfully ignorant of the entire drop-fire issue.Theoretically the 70 could fire if dropped, but the exact set of circumstances required are highly unlikely.
I have the Ruger SR 1911 with a titanium firing pin. The theory is the pin is so lightweight it cannot impact the primer hard enough to cause the round to go off on it's own. Needs the force of the hammer driving it to ignite the primer. Therefore, Ruger did not install a firing pin safety.
Ahhh, very helpful, thx. All you love in a 1911, but more stuff to go wrong, then… I like the larger ejection port idea, but I havent had ejection problems with my eager 1911 offerings.In addition to what already has been said,
1. The Series 80 has a shorter firing pin which also has a cut-out for the firing pin plunger. This firing pin has been known to break.
2. The Series 80 also has a different hammer with the half-cock notches relocated so the hammer sits lower at half cock, thus not having enough potential energy to fire the cartridge if the trigger is pulled.
3. The Series 80 also has a larger ejection port.
4. Of course, the dreaded firing pin plunger which locks the firing pin and prevents the pistol from being fired when dropped.
5. SOME Series 80's MAY have chamfered magazine wells.
6. Series 80 triggers are generally longer, mimicking the original WWI version which was replaced with shorter triggers after the war.
7. Series 80's generally have larger sights.
Thx for the link! Bookmarked for later.Yes. Two pieces.
The other system, “Swartz“ (one extra piece added) which was the predecessor to the series 80 is explained in the video below.
My Colt Defender in 9mm has series 80. Trigger is smooth as can be and is in no way anymore difficult to disassemble due to the extra parts.
I bought a Rock Island GI model so I could learn 1911 mechanics. My intent was to sell the RI after mastering disassembly/re-assembly, but I decided to keep it.I have watched some YouTubes on a complete disassembly of a 1911… looks so simple, save for the parts that warn “insert the short pin with the detent HERE, not the long pin with the round head that goes THERE….”
I should get a junker 1911 just to break so I can learn it, but I don’t have a junk (to me) 1911.
He meant to type "NOW utilize the Series 70 design." I think. Since that's how they work.Most 1911s, even the least expensive, such as Tisas and Rock Island, not utilize the "Series 70" design.
Figgered that is what was meant, thx!He meant to type "NOW utilize the Series 70 design." I think. Since that's how they work.
"NOW" or "HOW"?He meant to type "NOW utilize the Series 70 design." I think. Since that's how they work.
Honestly, I don’t find most factory Colt triggers that great from a 1911 standpoint, regardless of the seriesI have owned both and honestly say I am not that much of a perfectionist to tell any difference.
Of course, you're not the 1911 guy you once were either.Honestly, I don’t find most factory Colt triggers that great from a 1911 standpoint, regardless of the series
I don’t own nearly as many, but I don’t know how that makes me less of a “1911 guy”.Of course, you're not the 1911 guy you once were either.
My Ruger SR 1911 is a copy of the Ser 70 Colt. Shoots just fine...80’s have a firing pin safety to keep it from firing if you drop it . I can’t tell that much difference in the triggers between the two , but I hear that it is easier to make a 70’s series trigger better .