That's odd, as double guns have an independent lock for each barrel (or at least all those I'm familiar with) and it would be highly uncommon to have the same issue affecting both, which in this case sounds like the sears are not engaging the hammers when they reach full cock position.

I don't know how Rossi locks are constructed but anything like that is fixable, the only limitation being what the cost will be. It could be a simple parts swap, depending on their availability.

My dad bought this 1850's era Parker caplock 10 ga double in the 1950's and we shot it regularly through the 70's and 80's. Sometime later after I left home he told me the left lock was no longer functioning. I got into it and found the original mainspring had a broken tip and lost its engagement with the arm that attaches it to the hammer.

Many of the lock parts of these old gals were handmade and finished (including the screws) and I was able to fabricate a replacement spring using spring steel and weeks of methodical heating, shaping, filing and finally, heat treating, and though dad has passed along, he got to see his old Parker get restored to functionality.

In the case of your Rossi, see what the quoted price is (if they will give one) and whether that's worth it to you or not. No idea what the shop rate for something like that would be. Alternately if you were able to get the locks off and post some pics, it might be more evident what the cause is. Not being familiar with those, it's strange the same problem would affect both sides.

 

That's odd, as double guns have an independent lock for each barrel (or at least all those I'm familiar with) and it would be highly uncommon to have the same issue affecting both, which in this case sounds like the sears are not engaging the hammers when they reach full cock position.

I don't know how Rossi locks are constructed but anything like that is fixable, the only limitation being what the cost will be. It could be a simple parts swap, depending on their availability.

My dad bought this 1850's era Parker caplock 10 ga double in the 1950's and we shot it regularly through the 70's and 80's. Sometime later after I left home he told me the left lock was no longer functioning. I got into it and found the original mainspring had a broken tip and lost its engagement with the arm that attaches it to the hammer.

Many of the lock parts of these old gals were handmade and finished (including the screws) and I was able to fabricate a replacement spring using spring steel and weeks of methodical heating, shaping, filing and finally, heat treating, and though dad has passed along, he got to see his old Parker get restored to functionality.

In the case of your Rossi, see what the quoted price is (if they will give one) and whether that's worth it to you or not. No idea what the shop rate for something like that would be. Alternately if you were able to get the locks off and post some pics, it might be more evident what the cause is. Not being familiar with those, it's strange the same problem would affect both sides.

Might be easier to just order the part from Numrich, once he identifies the problem.

Rossi Overland Parts for Sale | Gun Parts Corp.

Get Rossi Overland parts and accessories today from Numrich Gun Parts - your source for firearms parts since 1950.

www.gunpartscorp.com

 

Some of the Rossi models with external hammers were actually fake hammers. The external hammer didn't hit firing pins but instead just cocked internal strikers.

 

I didn't know that, however, the firing pins are connected the area where the hammers strike (don't know what it's called). I was able to press the area and see the pin head protrude.

 

Should be able to find replacement springs if that is the problem. Check Numrich Gun Parts.
Just a FYI. Never use rust remover on a V spring. I learned the hard way.

 

Your gunsmith, if ANY good, should be able to easily repair a double gun lock.

I like "the Lupara". Devastating at normal hallway distances.

Nothing puts more projectiles in the air faster than both tubes popping at once.

Got pics?

 

Your gunsmith, if ANY good, should be able to easily repair a double gun lock.

I like "the Lupara". Devastating at normal hallway distances.

Nothing puts more projectiles in the air faster than both tubes popping at once.

Got pics?

Unfortunately, I didn't think to take pictures.
Im concerned more-so with parts availability over ease of repair. I feel that if the smith has to fabricate his own parts, it will cost me more than I would like to spend.

 

I had a Rossi Overland Coach gun years ago that I let my brother borrow.

He sold it. 🤯

A couple of tears ago I found another in very good condition.

He's not getting near this one.

(Tagged.)

 

You might want to see if there is a diagram of your shotgun on Gunparts (Numrich Arms) and possibly see what might be the problem.

 

I went through their website and saw that the Left & Right Sear is out of stock... don't know when that'll be rectified.

 

so the gunsmith said there was a broken tumbler in the shotty. he said that it will sit in the back shelf unless someone could find parts, or make it themselves. any thoughts on price?

 

1. Empty the gun.
2. Take the barrels off by first removing the forearm.
3. Push forward on the left trigger. Hold it and
4. Cock the left hammer.
5. Pay attention here. If the hammer won't stay cocked with the corresponding trigger pushed forward, you've got a hammer/sear problem.
6. If the hammer stays cocked, relax your forward pressure on the left trigger. If the hammer does not fall, then pull the trigger. If the hammer falls then, you may just have a gummed up gun.

Repeat this on the right side trigger and hammer.

You may have a "slip hammer" situation here. With each hammer in a "fired" position, push it forward against the rebound spring and check for firing pin protrusion through the recoil shield. If either firing pin will not protrude from the recoil shield with the corresponding trigger released, try pushing the hammer forward with the corresponding trigger depressed.

The gun as I know it was designed to have the hammer(s) cocked back and then fly forward with a pull of the corresponding trigger. Unless it's gummed up, it's unusual for both sides of the action to behave as you describe.

 

1. Empty the gun.
2. Take the barrels off by first removing the forearm.
3. Push forward on the left trigger. Hold it and
4. Cock the left hammer.
5. Pay attention here. If the hammer won't stay cocked with the corresponding trigger pushed forward, you've got a hammer/sear problem.
6. If the hammer stays cocked, relax your forward pressure on the left trigger. If the hammer does not fall, then pull the trigger. If the hammer falls then, you may just have a gummed up gun.

Repeat this on the right side trigger and hammer.

You may have a "slip hammer" situation here. With each hammer in a "fired" position, push it forward against the rebound spring and check for firing pin protrusion through the recoil shield. If either firing pin will not protrude from the recoil shield with the corresponding trigger released, try pushing the hammer forward with the corresponding trigger depressed.

The gun as I know it was designed to have the hammer(s) cocked back and then fly forward with a pull of the corresponding trigger. Unless it's gummed up, it's unusual for both sides of the action to behave as you describe.

Ill give it a try