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Partially pulling the trigger and spinning the cylinder is not proper operation for that gun, I’m sure.
More than likely by doing this you’ve found the transition between the Hand and the Cylinder Stop operation. This may very well be normal in the operation of the gun. Call Taurus and ask them.
Even if it is, the poor sap answering the phone won't know. Guaranteed. Much more likely to find someone on the web that know vs customer service. Sadly not just true of Taurus
 
Properly timed revolvers have to drop the cylinder stop bolt, actuated by the trigger pull, immediately before the hand fully engages the lug of the extractor (thereby revolving the cylinder).

Whether yours is actually an issue is not diagnosable over the internet. It could be normal, or inversely, a major safety issue.

Taurus should handle it for free, aside from shipping cost perhaps.
 
What was your repair bill??, I'm considering doing the same.
$65.00 to a private gunsmith. I'd previously sent it to Taurus twice, one time having to pay both shipping costs and a $50 "bench fee" for the Taurus guy who calls himself a gunsmith to look at it. In addition to a letter describing in detail the issue, I also emailed a video of the cylinder not turning as I pulled the trigger. They didn't want to watch the video until I got them on the phone and absolutely insisted - then the lady said I was probably pulling the trigger too slowly and I should shoot faster! That told me they had no idea what they were doing. The local gunsmith adjusted the hand travel and polished the internals and it seems to work okay now. Took about $140 to get it there. Could of bought a S&W for what I have in it now. Lesson learned.
 
I’ve had my hands on two 856’s and both did this. Lot of other people reporting the same thing. Multiple videos on the issue as well. Problem runs into slow firing with loaded rounds (specifically 158gr loadings) that the cylinder won’t progress to the next chamber due to the weight of the loaded cylinder.
Absolutely correct!
 
If you have access to a local gunsmith, you might ask if he'd quickly inspect your revolver to see if it requires repair. (Whether that's done by Taurus or the smith is up to you.) Ask the smith to explain revolver 'sing', and how it's checked.

Just looking online quickly, this video briefly mentions and discusses revolver 'sing' at 11:00.
 
If squeezing too slowly and missing the cyl. stop, you have a cylinder hand or ratchet problem. If it turns backwards it should catch when the next slot comes up to the cyl. stop. If it does not catch, the cly stop may be the problem. But it could be something with the trigger as all this movement depends on it being in order. I have had old IJ and H&R revolvers that relied on centrifugal force (pulling the trigger real fast) to slam the cylinder into the bolt, but can't recall that being an issue with the many S&Ws I have had. In any case, this should not happen on a new revolver.
 
Taurus 856
I have the same gun and the same issue. I have Rugers and Smiths which do not do this. I traded for it, it's my first Taurus. Not happy with it. It also will not rotate at time, there's a few utubes on it. Works fine in single action, but not double.
Mark a cylinder and then pull the trigger, empty of course, and see what happens. This will only be a range gun, and of course I would never sell or trade it in this condition. First Taurus, Last Taurus.
PS: I wanted this for the six round cylinder, I wonder if this is the cause.
 
There used to be plenty of brand new S&W's "in need of service."
which era , I never had that big of an issue with them
 
A friend bought a Taurus Mod 66 .357 years back. He could load 6 rounds and it would shoot 5 and click on the 6th. Open the cylinder and one unfired round would be in the cylinder but not under the firing pin.

It would skip a round occasionally. Seems they have still not perfected their timing.
 
To elaborate further. When you mark the cylinder pull the trigger six times and see if you end up on the mark, sometimes it will, sometimes you won't. I've had it hang up on the same charging hole 3 to 4 while pulling the trigger and not moving.
 
That's actually a nice feature, many times incorporated into large caliber heavy recoiling custom single action revolvers.
In the event of a bullet jumping the crimp during recoil, it can prevent the cylinder from rotating and ties up the gun. If you can't rotate the cylinder back, the only way the clear the "jam" is to remove the cylinder. On heavy recoiling guns, many times the cylinder pin is retained with a screw, so it's a bit of mess to clear. If the cylinder can be rotated backwards, the problematic round can be easily ejected.

Tony
 
You're right the cylinder easily rotating with the hammer or trigger pulled slightly is Ok. I don't like when yo pull the trigger and it does not move or index. I don't think this is a safety issue because when it does index it's tight onto the next charging hole. I actually really like the gun just wish it would index on each trigger pull.
 
Isn't that a feature of Taurus revolvers? Cylinder spins both ways. Cylinder goes out of time, out of the box, lead spewing out of the forcing cone . . . etc :).

Sorry, any chance I get to snub taurus I take the opportunity.

perhaps you should consider something reliable as a carry gun such as a glock, HK, sig, S&w or ruger.
 
Isn't that a feature of Taurus revolvers? Cylinder spins both ways. Cylinder goes out of time, out of the box, lead spewing out of the forcing cone . . . etc :).

Sorry, any chance I get to snub taurus I take the opportunity.

perhaps you should consider something reliable as a carry gun such as a glock, HK, sig, S&w or ruger.
My CCW guns are Glocks, and S&Ws
 
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