Trying to figure out the difference between these connectors. I realize that the rocket requires fitting but are there any other differences between the three. I like how the Glock is a "two stage trigger" it allows me to know exactly when the gun will fire, so i want to be certain that the connectors won't change that. Otherwise I'm just trying to figure out the difference between the three?
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ajoyner41
Of those three I've used the Rocket, which as you mention, requires fitting. That allows you to adjust the re-set to your tastes. It also has the debris holes cut into it for "self cleaning".
From what I see the Ghost 3.5 is their polished version of a Glock Connector and the Ultimate just has debris holes. Neither have a re-set tab.
Dave
From what I see the Ghost 3.5 is their polished version of a Glock Connector and the Ultimate just has debris holes. Neither have a re-set tab.
Dave
ajoyner41, I think the reset is something that not everyone takes advantage of. In the heat of competition lots of folks don't rely on it. I personally used it for a while then switched to a Vanek "tuned" Glock OEM 4.5 lb Connector.
http://www.vanekcustom.com/
I tried the Ghost, Lone Wolf, Glock OEM and the Vanek and settled on the Vanek. I liked the Lone Wolf too, both seemed more distinct in break to me, but it ends up being a personal taste for the feel. These are the ones I tried.
You can spend quite a bit of time and money looking for the right trigger feel. See if you can find shooters in your area that use or have tried the different triggers. Maybe you can get a chance to shoot with them.
Dave
http://www.vanekcustom.com/
I tried the Ghost, Lone Wolf, Glock OEM and the Vanek and settled on the Vanek. I liked the Lone Wolf too, both seemed more distinct in break to me, but it ends up being a personal taste for the feel. These are the ones I tried.
You can spend quite a bit of time and money looking for the right trigger feel. See if you can find shooters in your area that use or have tried the different triggers. Maybe you can get a chance to shoot with them.
Dave
I've tried the Rocket and the Ultimate. What I really like is the Evo Elite. It has the overtravel tab too. It just takes many a while to fit it just right. I bet I assembled and disassembled my gun 12-15 times before I got it perfect.
To me it's worth it because overtravel is detrimental to accuracy. The ability to adjust overtravel is THE difference between the Rocket and the Ultimate.
It's not hard to adjust right just time consuming. I wouldn't trust a gunsmith to install it because they'll get impatient (time is money) and take off too much of the TCT resulting in some overtravel which defeats the purpose of having the TCT. Ther are good YouTube videos showing how to install and adjust the Rocket or Evo Elite. Take a look and see if you think you can do it yourself.
Oh and FWIW my carry guns have stock triggers.
It's not hard to adjust right just time consuming. I wouldn't trust a gunsmith to install it because they'll get impatient (time is money) and take off too much of the TCT resulting in some overtravel which defeats the purpose of having the TCT. Ther are good YouTube videos showing how to install and adjust the Rocket or Evo Elite. Take a look and see if you think you can do it yourself.
Oh and FWIW my carry guns have stock triggers.
I don't know what Vanek does to "tune" the connectors but you're right, it's a nice polish job.
Dave
I'll add that I have a fitted Rocket, polished OEM (-) or the ZEV "race" connector in all mine. Those other than the Rocket or my 43 carry gun all also have a trigger housing with the overtravel stop screw.
If I understand the original Q, 2 stage as the poster defines it is referring to the take-up before the break. That doesn't change but the amount one can "feel" it isn't because of which connector is used, rather it is one of polishing the right places and just how much bend is placed on the connector when installing it and so how hard the connector bears on the trigger bar as it moves rearward. Making the parts slick can smooth the take-up such that its far less noticeable, but the "stack-before-break" remains.
The overtravel stop is probably the best/easiest way to improve staying on target/shot follow-through and this can be accomplished with the overtravel stop screw trigger housing offered by Orange County, King Glock and others; the Rocket which needs fitting (not too difficult) or one of the other Ghost versions with some already shortened stop tab; or the aftermarket trigger group assemblies where the stop screws are up front in the trigger pad itself.
Were I to start over, I'd not bother with any connector other than a mirror polished OEM (-), a more stiff trigger spring and an adjustable trigger stop. Total cost about $30.00 Short of a complete race gun setup with a trigger too light for all but competition, this is ALL a Glock needs to make the trigger as good it can be while remaining totally reliable/duty safe.
Last, one needs to understand the seller language over shortening the re-set distance trigger travel. Most of these solutions don't have any adjustable "stop" as the trigger returns forward on the re-set between shots. But because the trigger stopped moving backwards at the break, it has less return travel back to reset. So repeat shots can be more quick both because of the shorter return to re-set as well as because less overtravel keeps the gun more on target in the first place.
Rick
If I understand the original Q, 2 stage as the poster defines it is referring to the take-up before the break. That doesn't change but the amount one can "feel" it isn't because of which connector is used, rather it is one of polishing the right places and just how much bend is placed on the connector when installing it and so how hard the connector bears on the trigger bar as it moves rearward. Making the parts slick can smooth the take-up such that its far less noticeable, but the "stack-before-break" remains.
The overtravel stop is probably the best/easiest way to improve staying on target/shot follow-through and this can be accomplished with the overtravel stop screw trigger housing offered by Orange County, King Glock and others; the Rocket which needs fitting (not too difficult) or one of the other Ghost versions with some already shortened stop tab; or the aftermarket trigger group assemblies where the stop screws are up front in the trigger pad itself.
Were I to start over, I'd not bother with any connector other than a mirror polished OEM (-), a more stiff trigger spring and an adjustable trigger stop. Total cost about $30.00 Short of a complete race gun setup with a trigger too light for all but competition, this is ALL a Glock needs to make the trigger as good it can be while remaining totally reliable/duty safe.
Last, one needs to understand the seller language over shortening the re-set distance trigger travel. Most of these solutions don't have any adjustable "stop" as the trigger returns forward on the re-set between shots. But because the trigger stopped moving backwards at the break, it has less return travel back to reset. So repeat shots can be more quick both because of the shorter return to re-set as well as because less overtravel keeps the gun more on target in the first place.
Rick
Thank you for the info everyone. A quick question though, how much difference will "mirror polishing" make to the smoothness of the trigger pull? As in all of the metal trigger connector parts, and their friction points?
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