Get a Les Baer

 

Do you understand how the mechanism works? If not, you need to. Once you understand how it all works, you will notice there's a bunch of different stuff rubbing together in a variety of different ways. All that rubbing needs to occur in a manner that delivers the desired result at the trigger shoe.

The Glock trigger is not particularly refined, but it definitely should not be clunky. You should be able to make it about as light, smooth and crisp as is reasonably desired.

Assuming it's installed properly, your problem is not the plunger spring. If you want to test that, take the plunger completely out of the gun and try the trigger.

 

Do you understand how the mechanism works? If not, you need to. Once you understand how it all works, you will notice there's a bunch of different stuff rubbing together in a variety of different ways. All that rubbing needs to occur in a manner that delivers the desired result at the trigger shoe.

The Glock trigger is not particularly refined, but it definitely should not be clunky. You should be able to make it about as light, smooth and crisp as is reasonably desired.

Assuming it's installed properly, your problem is not the plunger spring. If you want to test that, take the plunger completely out of the gun and try the trigger.

Good answer!

 

Here's what I'd consider doing:
-Do remember to lubricate the trigger bar-connector interface. I believe this is a forgotten step in detail stripping and doing a 25¢ trigger job, at least according to what I've seen folks do on Youtube.

-Try swapping the firing pin safety spring with one from your Gen3 or Gen2 models as you said it was noticeably stiffer.

-I did have one G21SF trigger I first couldn't get smoother. What I found was the polymer trigger mechanism housing was rough where the trigger bar's cruciform was riding. I thought I might polish the trigger mech housing smoother but I totally melted the part, DOH!

I needed a new trigger mech housing anyway and the new one provided the smoother trigger pull I expected & wanted.

 

1. Yes

2. Did that. No improvement

3. I may just need to replace the whole assembly

 

My recently purchased G26 has...
Overwatch Precision Tac Trigger (comes with NP3 coated gen 3 trigger bar)
Ghost Pro 3.3 + spring kit (comes with reduced power FPSP spring, 6lb trigger spring, and two striker springs - I kept the stock one in).
And a RYG rounded SS FPSP
Trigger pull has very little pre travel (enough to not defeat any safeties) and no over travel. Total trigger pull is right under 7mm. No wall, no creep.

 

Sorry guys. I didn't just come here to complain. I'm at my wits end on this one and searching for ideas

 

shoot it some more.
it will improve.

I do not like a light, easy trigger for CC.
no room for error.

target trigger is different.

 

I'm not looking for light and easy. I'm looking for trigger like other glocks. Cleaner. Smoother. Not catching and dragging on the uptake

How many thousand of rounds should I need to shoot before the trigger becomes acceptable?

 

my three Gen 4's were acceptable to me out of the box.
they have soothed out a bit, no break point, just became smoother as they were shot.

 

I'm at the point that if I can get away for a bit I'll just go buy another gen 4 g19 to do some apples to apples comparisons

 

The firing pin spring is engaged, being loaded, during uptake, correct?

That is now where my attention is.

 

Yes. And it needs to function smoothly. Try to feel specifically what the problem is. Find a more descriptive term than "garbage".

 

Have you tried swapping connectors between guns, swapping trigger housings, striker lug, FP spring and cups, made sure channel liner isn't damaged, checked the gen4 slide etc.?

Look at all the places where geometry could be making the difference you feel in the trigger.

 

Yes. And it needs to function smoothly. Try to feel specifically what the problem is. Find a more descriptive term than "garbage".

Rubby
Catchy
Grindy
Heavy

....on the uptake.....the initial uptake that ends in the wall, just before the break

 

Rubby
Catchy
Grindy
Heavy

I know you have tried everything you can think of, so this may not help. In fact, I'm pretty sure it won't. But here it is anyway. Consider systematically examining everything that moves starting with your finger touching the trigger and ending with the striker moving forward. Consider what is the very first thing in that sequence, and make it buttery (as you can). Then move the next one. If all that fails, do it in reverse order. Then start replacing parts. Sounds like you've done that too. Once you reach the end of your journey, maybe let a trusted buddy or smithy take a look. Sometimes I can look at the same thing 800 times and miss something obvious. Good luck.

 

Mine was like that. I slicked up the hump that presses in the firing pin safety and that did the trick. If you look at it, you can see how rough it is from the stamping process.

 

Ok. Cleaned out striker channel, swapped striker/spring assembly between gen 3 and gen 4.

No joy

The black plastic trigger assembly triangle won't swap between the two gens.

With the slide removed, working the trigger bars back and forth, the gen 3 assembly appears looser. There is freer movement of the components.

I will be swapping the connectors next, but it appears there is either something in the frame that must be rubbing on the trigger assembly. I just can't figure out where

 

And add to the description: mushy

 

More polish. Disassembled/reassembled multiple times. Swapped all parts back and forth. No part swaps made the difference

At the end of it all I got it reasonably acceptable. There is a resistance point that breaks right after engaging the trigger. The next point is the wall, then break.

Besides striker and trigger springs, not sure what else to try. The plunger spring is still the stiffest of the 3 guns. Overall trigger is still the worst of the 3 guns

 

More polish. Disassembled/reassembled multiple times. Swapped all parts back and forth. No part swaps made the difference

At the end of it all I got it reasonably acceptable. There is a resistance point that breaks right after engaging the trigger. The next point is the wall, then break.

Besides striker and trigger springs, not sure what else to try. The plunger spring is still the stiffest of the 3 guns. Overall trigger is still the worst of the 3 guns

Try the RockYourGlock performance (rounded) SS plunger. It's lack of abrupt corners allows the trigger bar to glide over it more smoothly. It also comes with a super lightweight FPSP spring.

 

FYI: The Gen4 connector will be a "dot" connector; the Gen3 connector will be a standard connector. A standard connector in a Gen4 will average ~1/2 pound heavier, or ~6 pounds.

(Conversely, a "dot" connector in a Gen3 will average ~5 pounds.)

 

Get a Les Baer

Best answer! A Glock trigger, is a Glock trigger, is a Glock trigger. I squeeze, it goes bang, repeat. Honestly, the only time I notice the trigger is when I dry fire. I really don't even feel it when I fire. Maybe I'm just odd that way.

 

I'm judging it vs the other glock triggers in front of me.

Not asking for a superior trigger, just typical for the platform.

 

Most newer Gen4s have the "*" dot connector and a nice trigger pull out of the box. I would check to see if you have a newer Gen4 with a dot connector (SP07965).

 

And as for the Les Baer, I've owned a UTC for at least two years and have never fired it. Not once. But I bought 2x Glocks this week. Go figure.

 

Mothers metal polish and a q tip.

Polished all trigger surfaces that rub metal on metal.

 

Mothers metal polish and a q tip.

Polished all trigger surfaces that rub metal on metal.

So basically, you now have shiny, rough areas. It won't help, much.

 

Check that the firing pin safety spring is installed correctly. For years, I had a grindy/clicky feeling during take up that drove me nuts on my Gen 2 G23. I finally noticed that the firing pin safety spring wasn't seated all the way into the safety plunger and it was also not not perfectly straight. Remove the spring then reinstall it to make sure it's in right. You have to use a slight clockwise turning motion while you push the spring down. You'll feel it click into place

 

I swapped striker assemblies with no improvement. However, it's probably still worth reassembling it just to make sure.

It's reasonably smooth now but the double wall still exists. One immediately after engaging the trigger and a second one at firing.

 

Have you considered replacing the stock trigger? If not, just ignore my post.

I've taken out the stock trigger from the majority of my Glock pistols and replaced them with an aftermarket trigger kit. For me I've gone with Zev Technologies trigger kits. No issues and my Glock pistols operates in top form.

At least my option is cheaper than buying a Les Baer.:supergrin: Good luck.

 

Have you considered replacing the stock trigger? If not, just ignore my post.

I've taken out the stock trigger from the majority of my Glock triggers and replaced them with an aftermarket trigger kit. For me I've gone with Zev Technologies trigger kits. No issues and my Glock pistols operates in top form.

At least my option is cheaper than buying a Les Baer.:supergrin: Good luck.

I may go ahead and do that. Was hoping to make this one satisfactory

 

My mistake.

Yes I examined and reinstalled it with the twist and click.

One difference that is obvious is that the gun in question has a noticeably stiffer plunger spring than the others. However, I swapped the and it didn't solve the issue.

You should take it to an armorer and let them see if they can diagnose why it stacks, so much. It could be a combination of things (my guess) that Qtipping isn't going to fix.

 

I honestly don't know how to find one

 

You can swap the parts between your GEN3 & GEN4

I had both GEN3 & 4 G19s (gave the GEN3 to my SIL for Christmas)

But the triggers in both were the same -

IIRC the very first GEN4 G19 guns had a trigger bar with a sharper angle / heavier trigger . When was this gun manufactured.

 

Although the part will interchange, the trigger bar on the Gen 4 has the dimple.

 

I may go ahead and do that. Was hoping to make this one satisfactory

Shop around and see what is out there that would work for you. I understand what you mean trying to make the stock setup satisfactory. Some may say just accept the stock trigger as it is, I say forget it and drop in a setup I will like from the get go. Good luck.

 

I did a trigger mod on Gen 3 G20, G17, G29, G26.

I did not want to buy a gauge, but I think it was buttery smooth and much less than a pound.
The gist of it, consider the trigger connector bar is a pivoting and twice leveraging bar.
If you'd drill a new hole in the plastic trigger itself, you've changed the pivot location, thus end up with a more direct drive to push the firing pin back (to fire).

A thread started by a fella name something like 21Glock or Glock21 in the "10 Ring". We posted pics and details to the location to drill (must be to the tens of thousandths of an inch precision). This was many years ago. Perhaps you can find it.

EDIT: found it. His name was 21Carrier.
http://www.glocktalk.com/threads/how-to-get-a-2-5lb-glock-trigger-pull-with-all-stock-parts.1369375/

Warning... this is not for the weak of heart.

Buy a couple of trigger bar sets. And you can swap in/out to return to the original easily.