Here is a photo of a G43 and a G43X/48 slide stop. Which one does yours look like? The top one is for the G43X/48. And yes Glock has recently changed what numbers are stamped into each slide stop lever. As you can see on mine the G43 is stamped 33730 and the 43X/48 is stamped 33730-1. Glock evidently has changed the number that is stamped into the 43X/48 slide stop, The latest parts order form states the following for the 43X/48: Slide Stop Lever & Spring 02 - fits 9mm G43X,G48 only - marked 47876

If you are having problems make sure that the trigger pin is installed correctly and that the slide stop is sitting in the groove of the trigger pin too.

 

CBTENGR...
Thank you for the quick reply!
My slide stop looks like the one on top. I will try ordering/finding one without the “ - “. I must have gotten a Friday afternoon or Monday morning gun!
Thank you again...this is a fantastic forum....with even more fantastic members!

 

Midwest Gun Works has the G43 slide stop in stock. It is like the bottom one in my photo and is the correct part number.

Glock Slide Stop Lever & Spring 01 9mm (G43) Marked 33730-1

 

 

How does it work sling shooting the slide by grabbing it and releasing it?

 

I sling shoot after dropping the slide. Makes the bullets curve around the good guys and only hit the bad guys.

 

Unfortunately Glock does not offer an “extended” slide stop lever for the slim line models. So, I use Ghost extended slide stop/release lever (and a custom made extra power spring) in my G43s. I used to use Vickers extended slide stop/release lever, but did not like it because it fit loosely and rattled. I like Ghost lever better because it fits better and does not rattle in the gun.

 

It is not designed to be a slide release.

 

DannyR is correct. The recommended way to release a locked back slide is with the slingshot method. If you notice, the Glock slide stop is flat. That small amount of surface allows to push the slide into a locked back position. But once locked back the tension on you need more leverage to release it and to get enough friction on it to press it down you have to push it in at the same time that adds to the issue. If you want to use the slide stop as a release I will recommend an extended slide stop. Coming from a background of a 1911 where I almost always closed the slide with the slide stop I wanted that feature on my 43x. @GlockyQ mentioned the Ghost one. I have that one too. It provdes enough purchase for the thumb to release the slide but it isn't so far out that it gets in the way. Unless I think about it I forget that it isn't OEM.

 

My new 48 has the same problem. I bought the Ghost extended replacement, and things aren't much better.

 

Is there some reason you don’t want to “slingshot” the slide? If for no other reason, you can pick up just about any semi-auto pistol and use that technique without looking for the slide catch/release.

just something to consider.

 

I think largely it is a matter of training and habituation. For those trained to used the slide stop to put the slide into battery, the slide stop method (IMO) significantly faster and undoubtedly more efficient. With my 1911, 90% of the time I'm hitting the slide stop upon reload. The moment that mag is inserted you can hit the slide stop with the right hand or hit it with the left hand (for righty's) as your hand begins to seat on the pistol if you want to do it that way. The slingshot method requires inserting the mag with the left, moving the left hand to the rear of the slide, pulling, then moving it again to reseat it on the pistol for firing. If I have time to think about it I might do it either way. But my nature is to hit the slide stop, at least cerebrally. In an adrenaline situation I'm not sure which I would use, but knowing that I am adept at both methods should allow me to go on auto pilot and not think about it should the time come knowing that it will just happen. I think it would depend on the circumstances. In tactical class under a timer I tend to go to the slide stop.

 

I haven't had any trouble with any G43 parts in either of my 48s or my new 43X. I bought a complete set of G43 spare parts a while back and found them all to be compatible in both models.

I see no reason to worry about the slide stop. Someone already mentioned that it is not a true slide release, and the slide is intended to be pulled back when locked open to close. A weak RSA may not have enough spring tension to go into battery if released from the slide stop.

 

Thank you all for your comments/insight.
First...I did order BOTH slide stops from MWG..hopefully one of them will work! hahaha I do have a 43 and a 48...then I left them both overnight in my safe...I NOW have a 43X!!!! Thanks for the heads-up on MWG.
Second...I did try one of those grip strengthners...I believe i wore it out! hahahaha
Third...I too come from a 1911 background. Old habits are hard to break...using the slide stop lever is just second nature.
Fourth...yes, i'm trying very hard to just use the "slingshot" method. It works very well...almost as designed! However, there are a few times I have shot in matches that REQUIRED a "slide lock reload with the use of the slide lock lever to release the slide. SLINGSHOT METHOD NOT ALLOWED." Match rules have to be written to separate the "good from the bad from the ugly I suppose!!"
Fifth...as I continue to work this all out, albeit the "rolling changes" from Glock, and I find the "magic" that works...I will eventually replace the OEM with something else that works and wears well. And return to my 1911 BAD HABITS!!! hahaha (Slingshot method)
LAST...I want to thank EVERONE who took their time to answer my question and get me pointed in the right direction. Again I will say this is a fantastic forum...populated with FANTASTIC MEMBERS. THANK YOU TO ALL!!!!!

Phalanx429
A Pennsylvania Native Stuck In Colorado

 

I normally use the sling shot method but can say that hitting the slide release is different and stiffer on the G43 versus say a G19 with the OEM slide stops. Maybe the extended slide stop will you. The 43 is the only one that I do not run an extended slide stop lever on since they are for EDC use.

And glad that we could help out. Midwest Gun Works is one of my goto websites for Glock parts and has been good to go.

 

I know this is a cantankerous subject but I will go ahead. You really need to use the slingshot method. The slingshot method works on all semi auto handguns and is synonymous with "Tap, Rack, Bang". I have one pistol that you absolutely cannot push the slide stop lever down when it is locked to the rear. And as some here on GT have stated, "It is called the slide lock lever, not the slide release lever".

Flame on gents!

 

I know this is a cantankerous subject but I will go ahead. You really need to use the slingshot method. The slingshot method works on all semi auto handguns and is synonymous with "Tap, Rack, Bang". I have one pistol that you absolutely cannot push the slide stop lever down when it is locked to the rear. And as some here on GT have stated, "It is called the slide lock lever, not the slide release lever".

Flame on gents!

Not disagreeing and certainly not flaming! But folks teaching methods if a hand is injured do include this approach. While it may not be ideal, Glock even includes this as an appropriate and viable mechanism, so it should work, right? If it is so tough that you can't do what the manual says it SHOULD be able to do, one might want it to work as designed.

They even describe the slide stop lever option first...

From my Glock manual:

 

And the particular part is listed as a slide stop lever on all the official parts order forms I have seen.

 

One thing worth mentioning is that the OEM slide stop will often break in after repeated use. Mine (43x) just flaked off whatever crappy coating Glock put on it.

 

Vickers/Tango Down lever is like $10 and takes 5 min or less to install.