Yes it does. It works very well as you're intending to use it.

I have a couple of older watches that the pins holding the band links together started walking out. I almost had one of them back all the way out. A little blue Loctite about 3 years ago stopped that. It hasn't happened since, and I know that if I ever need to remove the pins (highly doubtful), it won't be very difficult. A Jeweler could probably tap them out easily. I could probably do it myself easily with the right tool.

My problem was very similar to yours. I expect your results will be as good as mine.

 

I'd call TK and ask them.

Blue locktite, like most of them, needs active metals for the corrosion process to work. TK triggers are anodized aluminum, so passivated.

There are compounds made for creating interference fit. But Blue locktite would be a "No" in this case. Post #2 is wrong.

NDA in place, but there are two trigger manufacturers who did not know this and their ignorance resulted in an unintentional discharge with no finger on the trigger.

 

I'm sorry, but you're wrong. Loctite is a glue. There is no corrosion. The active ingredient is Cyanoacrylate, the same as Super Glue. Loctite just comes in various strengths and is color coded by strength. It will work well on any material that isn't porous. Loctite Corporation actually states that Loctite products help prevent corrosion.

 

I'd call TK and ask them.

Blue locktite, like most of them, needs active metals for the corrosion process to work. TK triggers are anodized aluminum, so passivated.

There are compounds made for creating interference fit. But Blue locktite would be a "No" in this case. Post #2 is wrong.

NDA in place, but there are two trigger manufacturers who did not know this and their ignorance resulted in an unintentional discharge with no finger on the trigger.

You sir, are wrong. A little reading at the Loctite website is all you need to do. I am actually a Manufacturing Engineer. I work for an engine manufacturer and we use Loctite by the tens of gallons every day. If it caused any corrosion on our engines, we definitely would not use it. Loctite even makes it fluorescent for us so we can use black lights to easily confirm proper application visually.

Okay, I think my google fu is educating my noob brain.

Blue Loctite is a methyl acrylate and not a cyano acrylate like superglue, right? It’s more like a resin than a glue?

 

So as best I can tell, you’re both wrong or both right?

Not superglue, but yes an adhesive?

 

Some Locktite IS the same as Super glue, much is not. Some are pure adhesives, some are not. It can be confusing for a lay person who lacks the understanding, but it is a basic topic in fastener studies in accredited engineering schools.

Super glue is air cured. Red and Blue Locktite are anaerobic and remain liquid in air.

 

Loctite does make a line of super glue, not to be confused with thread locker I would assume.

 

Correct. The thread lockers and sealants have varying strengths. The glue is just maximum strength.

 

 

Ya beat me to it......

 

FWIW I went with some red and will see how it cures up tomorrow.

I know red is more super duper than blue but I'm confident a soldering iron applied to the pin will take care of it.

p.s. from reading the various stuff about loctite 271 on the internet it turns into some sort of plastic as it cures. I am not sure which one of you this vindicates, if any.

 

You were worried about Green, Isn’t Red stronger?

 

Vibra-Tite VC3 would be great for that application.

 

Now you tell us. 😉

 

You should be ok, threads are much tougher to break free.

 

FAQs

www.tryloctite.in

 

I’ve used blue loctite on sights with less than stellar results. Perhaps on a small pin in a trigger shoe it will fair better b/c the part won’t heat up. The blue and the red loctite can be softened with heat. The red would create a stronger bond, but requires more heat later to loosen, or certain chemical solvents.

 

Why not forget all this drama and just fix the pin. Whenever I have a loose one, I find or make one that fits. Or slightly alter it in some way, such as peening, or putting a slight bend in the middle. Surely there is some way other than an adhesive where one is not supposed to be.

 

Why not forget all this drama and just fix the pin. Whenever I have a loose one, I find or make one that fits. Or slightly alter it in some way, such as peening, of putting a slight bend in the middle. Surely there is some way other than an adhesive where one is not supposed to be.

Unfortunately I lack those skills. I've been reading up on this and I guess I am not the first one to have this issue, or a similar one.

I know the loctite route could be construed as a bit on the bubba side, but, end of day it's reversible and if it fails... then the gun might not fire. I can live with a possibly temporary bubba-esque "fail-safe" approach to start with.

 

I realized I was going about this stupidly and starting with the strongest of the 2 first could be a recipe for disaster. Pulled out the red and put in some blue, will see how that does.

In my experience cured blue loctite leaves a fairly substantial amount of gunk on the stuff it is applied to, which is hard to remove. For my purpose, all that needs to be done is thicken up the pin enough to keep in place. Blue gunk might do the trick. If it doesn't hold, I'll switch to red.

 

This has been a nice thread and all, but personally I’d find it more interesting if Mark and 2L Engineer could discuss which is a better cartridge, 9mm or .40 S&W….

 

Jane, you ignorant slut.

 

I used some red loctite under a slightly loose dovetailed rifle sight. This was recommended by the sight manufacturer during our phone conversation. The sight never came loose.
I have seen pictures of a sight that was secured in this same manner, and when the sight was drifted out (with much effort required) the loctite under the sight looked like plastic.

 

Red Loctite threadlocker
Red Loctite threadlocker is considered to have high adhesion strength. It cannot be removed by simply applying torque, but requires special heat in combination with torque (or special chemicals) to disassemble the components after the red Loctite threadlocker has been applied. It is available in either a semisolid anaerobic or liquid form, and once applied to the threads it will cure in 24 hours. Common versions are: Loctite 262, Loctite 268, Loctite 271, and Loctite 272.

Green Loctite threadlocker
Green Loctite threadlocker is considered to have high adhesion strength for wicking. It is ideal for preassembled fasteners, like set screws. It cannot be removed by simply applying torque, but requires special heat in combination with torque (or special chemicals) to disassemble the components after the green Loctite threadlocker has been applied. It is available in a liquid form, and once applied to the threads it will cure in 24 hours. Common versions are: Loctite 270 and Loctite 290.

Blue Loctite threadlocker
Blue Loctite threadlocker is considered to have medium adhesion strength. It can be disassembled with high torque, but it is easier to disassemble with special chemicals and/or heat. It is available as a tape, semisolid, or liquid form, and once applied to the threads it will cure in 24 hours. Common versions are: Loctite 242, Loctite 243, and Loctite 248.

Purple Loctite threadlocker
Purple Loctite threadlocker is considered to have low adhesion strength. It can be disassembled with low torque with the same hand tool used to install it. It is available in a liquid form, and once applied to the threads it will cure in 24 hours. The most common version is Loctite 222.

 

Good guys having fun 👍

 

The banter in this thread might be funny to some, but I'm not finding any of it humorous. Loctite Thread Locker (NOT to be confused with Loctite "Thread Sealants", "Gasketing Compounds", "Super Glue", etc.) is an anaerobic sealant that cures into a thermoset plastic compound in the absence of oxygen while in the presence of metallic surface ions. For this reason, Blue, Red, Green, or Purple Loctite won't work on threaded plastics; if you wish to lock threaded plastic fasteners, a product containing cyanoacrylates is recommended instead.

Sure, any brand of thread locker will act as somewhat of a glue, but that's not what a thread locker was designed for, nor is spit, nor schmaltz.

There are Loctite products specifically designed for purposes similar to the OP's needs...one such example is Loctite 638 - Retaining Compound.

You expert folks aught to read up on it above and get yourselves edjumicated - so you can recommend the correct product(s) to those in need.

 

I just use the blue stuff.

 

ChatGPT says @MarkCO is more correct than @2LEngineer, but it disagrees with Mark that corrosion is the bonding mechanism.

Side note: Good on ChatGPT coping with my terrible grammar.

 

I didn't say that super glue and Loctite variations were the same. My point was that they work in a similar fashion. I think the OP made a good decision to move forward with using blue Loctite, which was his original question. It will work well for what he was trying to accomplish. I simply tried to help him because I had experience using it in a similar way. I'm sure he will report that it worked well.

 

Helpful thread.

Reminded me I need to buy some 242 before I change the battery in my RMR

Which also reminded me I need to borrow a ladder to change the last battery in the smoke dectector because the ceiling is 10.5 feet in that room. (No thread locker required).

Doesn’t speak to the topic at hand but my New Year Resolution is to participate in more topics.

Maybe I should rethink the resolution.

 

I typically use 262 for pistol stuff, certainly for parts attached to the slide. 242 is good for thigs like knife pivots, but in my experience is not strong enough for most handgun applications.

I've experimented with 620 on flat/unthreaded mating surfaces, and 262 works better for me there as well. Breaking 262 with heat is not a problem, so I prefer to err on the strong side. It's no fun having to replace parts in mid-season.

Examples of parts where 262 has worked well for me on flats are front sight dovetails and grip/frame contacts on my Stock 2's. It works great as an adhesive levelling compound to keep aggressive brass grips (more torque between grip panels and hands) on for the whole season. Otherwise I'd have to retighten them every session or two.

Don't know the answer to the chemistry question, but using heat as a break agent is more convenient for me than a solvent would be.

 

AI is wrong, which isn't unusual.

I don't disagree on the reliability of AI.

Some Loctite types, such as 4305 do indeed use cyanoacrylate. There are others, but 4305 immediately comes to mind.

Here's the thing, OP was discussing blue and green Loctite in the context of a non-threaded surface. Which I think most people understand to mean their threadlocking products and not an analogue to Superglue's main product. Anyhow, was a fun excuse to put it ChatGPT. In this case I think AI got it right. Have a good one.

 

In this case I think AI got it right. Have a good one.

Actually, since the AI has lumped "all" Loctite together in the summary, no, it did not. Agree with @2LEngineer in that the AI is wrong in this case. Lots of different formulations, applications and cure processes with Loctite products.

ChatGPT is nothing more than "group think" and when it comes to specialization it fails at a pretty high rate.

 

FWIW, I can definitively state that blue loctite will act as a retaining compound between the TK trigger shoe and TK disconnector pin. They are together pretty solid.

 

The pins in my watch band were secured with blue Loctite several years ago. They have not moved since. I'm sure your experience will be the same.

.... WITH ABSOLUTELY NO CORROSION. LOLOL