In reading Brownells description it does not sound as though ithe aluma hyde II will be a durable as Duracoat. However, we have no experience with the Brownells product so cannot say for sure if that will prove to be the case.

 

Alumahyde II is durable stuff, but you need a good measure of patience to use it successfully.

Recoat within 30 minutes or wait until it fully cures, is sound advice.

I've found that complete cure takes at least a week & that heat from a hairdryer, or from a summertime 120º garage, doesn't really shortcut any.

If you try to rush it, it shows.

For a single color coating, this may be for you. For multiple (camo) colors, hunting season will be over before you get a chance to use your refiniished gun.

 

I've used alumahyde a good bit and it's very durable. I've never used duracoat however. For the money and ease, alumahyde works very well.

 

i have used both and my take one is probably as good as the other, but if you duracoat you can adjust your sprayer and this can make a difference in the ease of application. When I duracoat I use very light coats and recoat many times taking about a hr to do a gun. With Alumahyde its a 5 minute process because the consistency is regulated by a spray can. I always bought those cheap sprayers you connect to a compressor and had excellent results. Just remember duracoat is a two step, in that you have to mix the two compounds and by adding a very small amount of extra amount of hardner you can play with the color. For instance I used HK black and made the color a little deeper by doing that.

 

KG Gun Kote is the best I've found for a bake-on rattle can finish.

 

I've used Aluma-Hyde on many weapons for many years. If your surface prep is perfect and you follow the directions to a "T" it's a fine finish.

Using clean spray nozzles is important as is spraying at the right temp (65 deg. minimum). All the rattle can protocol has to be followed with regard to constant shaking. I generally warm the can for a few minutes in hot water. Just run hot water from a faucet into a sauce pan. Do not boil as you'll have a world class mess when the can lets go (don't ask me how I know this).

The main drawback is the slow cure time and the need to
get all your coats on in about 30 minutes or the stuff will remain soft for months.

The Coyote Brown is a pretty good match for Magpul F.D.E.
The Olive Drab is a little light but looks great as a frame color with a stainless or hard chrome upper.

 

I've used alumahyde II and gunkote. I don't know if it is the same as KG Gunkote. Alumahyde II makes a very nice smooth finish and is fairly durable, but NOT very solvent resistant! I use WD 40 or CLP to clean the coated parts and just use great care when cleaning the bore with hoppes.
The drying process CAN be speeded up by baking the gun for 4 to 5 hours at 180 to 200 degrees.

Gunkote is very tough and chip resistant, and pretty good at solvent resistance. Even lacquer thinner or brake cleaner does not have a lot of effect on it (i mean for momentary applications like during cleaning, anything of longer duration such as soaking, and all bets are off.) However i used "flat black" gunkote and it came out more like a satin. I wanted flat black , not satin, so i contacted Brownells who were nice enough to send me a new can. Same results.

 

Gunkote is very tough and chip resistant, and pretty good at solvent resistance. Even lacquer thinner or brake cleaner does not have a lot of effect on it (i mean for momentary applications like during cleaning, anything of longer duration such as soaking, and all bets are off.) However i used "flat black" gunkote and it came out more like a satin. I wanted flat black , not satin, so i contacted Brownells who were nice enough to send me a new can. Same results.

You probably didn't shake it up enough. If you dont shake the living heck out of it, that is what will happen. You will get a satin not flat look. You seriously have to shake it up a long time to make sure everything mixes well.

If you have problems still call Joe at KG and he will be more then helpful.

Todd

 

What kind of prep work is required with these finishes? I have a Gen3 G30SF that is starting to show some wear (on the slide, the receiver looks like new still). I would like to do it in probably a Sniper Gray and leave the frame black. I have seen a video or two that showed them media blasting the slide to take the original finish off. Is there a product that is durable that doesn't require blasting? What about if I screw it up? Can these be removed so you could re-do your screw up? Thanks.

 

What kind of prep work is required with these finishes? I have a Gen3 G30SF that is starting to show some wear (on the slide, the receiver looks like new still). I would like to do it in probably a Sniper Gray and leave the frame black. I have seen a video or two that showed them media blasting the slide to take the original finish off. Is there a product that is durable that doesn't require blasting? What about if I screw it up? Can these be removed so you could re-do your screw up? Thanks.

It's a Glock. Good wear shows character. The metal is treated with Tennifer under the finish so it won't corrode.

 

It's a Glock. Good wear shows character. The metal is treated with Tennifer under the finish so it won't corrode.

Out of respect, I deleted my original post even though your response is a little annoying, and of typical snappy-forum-fashion towards a newbie. This thread, was after all, about refinishing.

Low post count doesn't indicate lack of experience, only a lack of time or participation at a particular locale.

 

I put Alumahyde on a simple bolt action that I hunt in bad weather and terrain with and it has held up pretty well - very inexpensive, easy to touch up and it gets more durable with time - much harder after 6 months. I use it on guns that are works in progress and want to have a finished look between steps - it is a good match for some painted finishes on military guns.

 

I might give it a try on some old junker 22 rifles to see if I can master the technique .