Don't worry about it. Glocks are just hammers. The only thing you should be looking at is the sight picture on the target.

 

I do understand your point and I believe that if one shoots a good deal, especially in competition, I could see myself coming around to that view. But I haven't 'evolved' enough to support it yet.

Also, I can appreciate that my concerns and that of others draw focus away from the really important things. But it's an easy fix, not terribly time-consuming (unless one starts a thread about it), and it gives some of us that 'warm and fuzzy' feeling. . I'm that way with all of my handguns.

 

Okay. I was going to say shoot it some more and you will forget what scratch came from where.

 

that looks good Creative. Perhaps it was just a mar after all.

It would have bothered me too. I don't mind honest signs of wear, but seeing it "bunged up" would annoy me. I'm glad you got her cleaned up.

 

that looks good Creative. Perhaps it was just a mar after all.

It would have bothered me too. I don't mind honest signs of wear, but seeing it "bunged up" would annoy me. I'm glad you got her cleaned up.

Thank you. Also, you may be right. I don't know. It did not come off quickly, had to use some elbow grease but that #0000 is great because the 'grit' or whatever is not extreme at all. It's great stuff.

 

I’ll have to try that creativetownsman. I scratched my G20.4 on a barbed wire fence while hunting. I normally wouldn’t care much about a scratch on a Glock, but that G20 was a retirement present from my guys and it means a lot to me.

 

IAhunter- I don't see any downside to trying it. Do let us know. If it's really deep it may not produce the same results. But give it a try, and if not satisfied you're probably aware that the slide can be sent to Glock and they'll refinish it for a reasonable price. That's not my personal knowledge, only what I've read. If I were in your position I'd give Glock a call and explain the situation.

 

Please refrain from the 'group-think' comments that it's 'just a tool' and those other garbage type of comments. blah blah blah. Those comments are not relevant and are annoying. Some people care about the finish of their guns and some don't give a hoot. I fall into the former category. Respect me for it and don't waste anyone's time here. I respect that you may not give a hoot. Good for you, not for me (and others)!

You know it's going to be a good thread when an OP includes this.

 

I’ve used cold bluing after heating the slide, but never CLP. I would not have thought that anything in CLP would/could change the color in the metal.

 

I've seen photographic evidence that simply laying a pistol on immaculate grey carpet cures all scratches and wear marks.

 

I'm going to try your technique. I've been fretting over the scratches on my Glock slide.

 

I'm going to try your technique. I've been fretting over the scratches on my Glock slide.

View attachment 680684

What in the world happened to the frame?

 

Like you, I prefer to keep my Glocks (as well as my other pistols) in as good condition as possible. Mine don't have any significant scratches, just minor holster wear, but I appreciate the info. Thanks for posting.

 

Always heard the steel wool was bad mojo. Tiny flecks of the steel wool embed in the surface being abraded, then rust later.

 

Now for the real test; degrease your slide complety bone dry and rephotograph it.

The "P" for "protection" in "CLP" products is a surface treatment that remains after the solvent (the "C" as in "clean" part of "CLP") part of the formula evaporates. This compound fills in minor scratches, fine striations, and porous areas of the metal surface(s), adhering well to every surface that it's applied to (else it wouldn't work so well), making these scratches seem to disappear and blend in with the surrounding area, but they're still there, 'just not as readily observable due to the glossy nature of the protectant.

There's also a good chance that the scratches weren't scratches into the slide at all, but was simply carry over material from the tape/sight pusher that was removed from the surface with the 0000 steel wool, similar to the way that brass "kiss marks" on rifle receivers are only marks on the surface of the material that can be removed without harming the finish below them.

Since we have no clear images of before or after, it's a little tough for me to see...

 

Degreased and dry in the areas mentioned.
Now what? CLP. I don't think there's anything to worry about concerning rust now that I took your suggestion and degreased and applied CLP. Thank you.

 

Top of slide under the tape appeared marred with scratches. ...But the marring, scratches, and what appeared to be removal of finish

Appeared.

The finish doesn't self-heal. To scratch is to remove material, as in gouge or score. The clean-up treatment removed foreign material. Nicely done and a testament to the durable finish.

 

I'm with you, I hate scratches and imperfections in my gun finishes. I have several guns with mars or bad finishes that I want to try to Cerakote. A 870 clone shotgun first. If that works out I'll do my 1911 too.

 

"Please refrain from the 'group-think' comments that it's 'just a tool' and those other garbage type of comments. blah blah blah. Those comments are not relevant and are annoying. Some people care about the finish of their guns and some don't give a hoot. I fall into the former category. Respect me for it and don't waste anyone's time here. I respect that you may not give a hoot. Good for you, not for me (and others)!"

You know it's going to be a good thread when an OP includes this.

Agree … Suggested reading:

 

If you don't have anything positive to contribute to this positive thread then why don't you just button it, Murray? And why don't you have a go at reading the book yourself? Classic case of projection, my friend.

I'm unsubscribing from my own thread because I think I did my part, and in good faith. I have no desire to stick around any longer.
Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

 

'No reason to get sore. This place is not a summer soccer clinic for 5-7 year olds where everyone gets a participation trophy; this is an adult public discussion forum, and if you feel confident enough in whatever you post here then you should be willing and able to accept both praise and criticism without covering your ears and taking your marbles and going home. And this is an opportunity where you can heed your own "If you don't have anything positive to contribute to this positive thread..." advice and just let any negativity you may encounter simply go unchallenged - and show this through your own silence. 'Works for me all the time and allows me to go about my day without getting unnecessarily torqued by complete strangers

Thanks for your contributions

 

I'm going to try your technique. I've been fretting over the scratches on my Glock slide.

View attachment 680684

*Looks like you left your Glock in your bag of home work papers for the dog to eat (lol !)

 

Regarding the finish on say a Gen 4 , how deep is the finish in terms of providing rust protection ? Would lightly using #000 steel wool to remove scratches as the OP did remove enough finish to be a concern in terms of rust protection ?

 

Top of slide under the tape appeared marred with scratches.

I agree completely with those who suggest that there was only a mar or deposit of material onto the surface of that "fry pan" finish. Definitely there was no scratch that removed any finish. I've had the same persistent marring occur on FP-finish Glock slides that vanished entirely after a great deal of rubbing with a cloth. I also used Break Free-CLP as solvent..a wonderful product for many purposes.

OP...your results removing the marring deposit look good. However, I would never use stedl wool on any type of Glock finish unless I wanted to do what a real scratch would have done...remove the finish. You were lucky that did not produce unintended and unwelcome results.

Please refrain from the 'group-think' comments that it's 'just a tool' and those other garbage type of comments. blah blah blah. Those comments are not relevant and are annoying.

When you post to a public forum, you have neither right nor power to demand such a thing...especially with the unpleasant and imperious manner you use. Glock Talk is not a "safe space" that protects and shields against hurt feelings and annoyances.

I'm unsubscribing from my own thread because I think I did my part, and in good faith. I have no desire to stick around any longer.

Thank you for the description of your process. Regrettably, it appears you have "feelings" easily bruised. You likely will not be very happy actively participating in many public forums, on or off the web.

Now...about that "skateboard tape" on the slide thing...

 

When you post to a public forum, you have neither right nor power to demand such a thing...especially with the unpleasant manner you use. Glock Talk is not a "safe space" that protects and shields against hurt feelings and annoyances.

I wasn't going to post 'it's just a tool, shoot it' 'till you posted this. Phew...it's was annoying me not to say it. YimgonnabeasmartassanywaysMMV

 

The clean-up treatment removed foreign material.

According to the OP's pics, this is what happened. You're not removing a scratch until you've removed enough material around the scratch for the scratch to be gone. This is called 'feathering' and the finish has to be touched up or completely re-done. I agree, though, that the finish is pretty tough to be able to steel wool it to remove a mark and it not show any visible side effects.

 

Some people mess up more stuff than they fix

 

Have to. :cow:

 

Anyone ever try Flitz to remove small mars on your slide?

I use Flitz all the time to remove imperfections, polish etc on plastic, steel, aluminum, fiberglass etc. But I've never had a need to use it on my guns.

 

I do understand your point and I believe that if one shoots a good deal, especially in competition, I could see myself coming around to that view. But I haven't 'evolved' enough to support it yet.

Also, I can appreciate that my concerns and that of others draw focus away from the really important things. But it's an easy fix, not terribly time-consuming (unless one starts a thread about it), and it gives some of us that 'warm and fuzzy' feeling. . I'm that way with all of my handguns.

I'm of the opinion that if you take good care of your tools, they'll care of you. I treat my hammers better then many treat their firearms. I can appreciate the care that you've taken. Thanks for the tips.

 

I use my tools a lot, and most of them look like new. I'm pretty anal about taking care of tools, vehicles, boat, etc.

I know some say "don't worry about it, a gun is just a tool"...I agree, my guns are tools, but get very good care just like any of my tools.

 

I use my tools a lot, and most of them look like new. I'm pretty anal about taking care of tools, vehicles, boat, etc.

I know some say "don't worry about it, a gun is just a tool"...I agree, my guns are tools, but get very good care just like any of my tools.

If guns are just tools, then we have a serious problem. Some of us could supply a small army.