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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Both my G19 and G44 have polished internals. The 44 has a Ghost 3# connector, the 19 probably has upwards of 8000 and equally as much dry fire rounds through it and the G44 3000 never a problem
Glad to hear that. I'll be able to tell more of what's going on once I have the armored plate.
 
Firing on trigger release is usually caused by a rounded edged on the connector's "ramp" edge. Instead of the trigger bar dropping straight off the ramp (moving sideways only) upon reset, a rounded edge makes the trigger bar drop down as well as sideways. That downward movement is enough to disengage the trigger bar from the firing pin "nose" in some cases.

Some Ghost connectors have rounded edges, at least the one that I purchased... causing the "binary" effect. Of course, too much "polishing" can cause a rounded edge, or make it worse. A rounded edge on the trigger bar where it meets the connector ramp can also cause the binary effect. Keep those edges square!
 
If the Glock connector doesn't go binary, then you probably don't need a trigger.

I'd be willing to bet the binary is caused by an incorrect angle adjustment on the Ghost connector.
Look at the Glock connector's angle, then duplicate it with the Ghost connector, and you'll probably have a non-binary trigger.

It would be interesting to hear what Ghost Inc would have to say about this.
 
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I just purchased this G44 new, put 20 rounds through it without issue and the decided to slick up the trigger a little. I polished the cruciform a little and installed an old Ghost connector I had laying around. This produced a binary trigger.... fire on trigger press and fire on trigger release. I fired 60 rounds and it functioned this way 100%.

I installed the OEM connector and back to normal.

While I don't claim to be a Glock gunsmith, I have owned, competed with and swapped trigger components for well over 20 years. I've used this Ghost connector in other Glocks without issue. Is there something different with the G44 that can caused this with this connector?

View attachment 1265045
Hide your dog!
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
If the Glock connector doesn't go binary, then you probably don't need a trigger.

I'd be willing to bet the binary is caused by an incorrect angle adjustment on the Ghost connector.
Look at the Glock connector's angle, then duplicate it with the Ghost connector, and you'll probably have a non-binary trigger.

It would be interesting to hear what Ghost Inc would have to say about this.
Here's pictures of both connectors:
Image
Image


I assume this is the angle your talking about. They look about the same.
 
Here's pictures of both connectors:
View attachment 1265282 View attachment 1265283

I assume this is the angle your talking about. They look about the same.
It looks like your Ghost connector is too far away from the housing. Small adjustments make a big difference.

Notice on your G44 photo, the connector intersects the plastic housing about 3/8" down. That's about perfect.

In the below video, he shows how to adjust towards the housing and away from the housing. Make sure your adjustments will make the connector go towards the housing.
See this video on how to adjust:
Edit: It would be a good idea to get an armoror's slide plate so that you can check sear engagement, which should be at minimum 2/3 rds.

 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
It looks like your Ghost connector is too far away from the housing. Small adjustments make a big difference.

Notice on your G44 photo, the connector intersects the plastic housing about 3/8" down. That's about perfect.

In the below video, he shows how to adjust towards the housing and away from the housing. Make sure your adjustments will make the connector go towards the housing.
See this video on how to adjust:
Edit: It would be a good idea to get an armoror's slide plate so that you can check sear engagement, which should be at minimum 2/3 rds.

Thanks, I have an armor slide plate coming. Thanks for the video link. I'll check it out when I get a chance and will definitely watch it when the armor slide plate comes in.
 
Thanks, I have an armor slide plate coming. Thanks for the video link. I'll check it out when I get a chance and will definitely watch it when the armor slide plate comes in.
Without a minimum of 2/3rds sear engagement (and “square” interfaces) the firearm is not safe to keep loaded.
 
Actually Binary triggers are no legal in all states.
As I understand, binary (not forced reset) triggers are illegal/restricted in 12(13?) states + DC. Most are the usual suspects, FL and IA are the surprises.

Currently, legal in all of the others.
 
FWIW, when I first got my glock and was going down the connector rabbit hole, I immediately discounted Ghost due to reading more than a couple "Installed Ghost connecter and [insert strange/bad thing] happened" stories.

Obviously, plenty of people have had positive experiences with them, OP included [previous to installing in G44], but I decided to stick with OEM connectors as less of a question mark.
 
Maybe so. My Glock 44 has a 39452 trigger bar which I cannot seem to find online. I've read that the G44 trigger bar is a little different from other Gen 5 Glocks..... but I also read that the standard gen 5 trigger bar will work. :unsure:
The G44 uses a trigger bar made specifically for that model #GLSP39453

The Gen5 trigger bar is different and shouldn't be used in the 44. Online you will see some people installing it and saying it works, but these are the same people that will put a Gen 3 barrel into a Gen 5 or a Gen 5 slide on a Gen 4 frame they shoot it once and assume it's perfect.

Image
 
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Discussion starter · #34 · (Edited)
Without a minimum of 2/3rds sear engagement (and “square” interfaces) the firearm is not safe to keep loaded.
I have a new trigger bar and armor slide plate to verify and learn what's going on. It's funny how I've made it over 20 years without the slide plate.... guess I got lucky with all of the connector swapping I've done over the years.

The G44 uses a trigger bar made specifically for that model #GLSP39453

The Gen5 trigger bar is different and shouldn't be used in the 44. Online you will see some people installing it and saying it works, but these are the same people that will put a Gen 3 barrel into a Gen 5 or a Gen 5 slide on a Gen 4 frame they shoot it once and assume it's perfect.

View attachment 1265682
I have a new 39453 trigger bar coming (in addition to a G5 trigger bar).
 
I have a new trigger bar and armor slide plate to verify and learn what's going on. It's funny how I've made it over 20 years without the slide plate.... guess I got lucky with all of the connector swapping I've done over the years.


I have a new 39453 trigger bar coming(in addition to a G5 trigger bar).
Not so much the connector, but the trigger bar.; but can be the connector.


You might enjoy the armorers class.
 
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I will dispel one thing. YES you absolutely use a standard Gen 5 trigger bar in a G44 without any issues. I have done so with OEM Glock G44 and G19 frames (with G44 ejector) and with several 80% frames I have built.

Now you very well can/will have issues using a G44 trigger bar in a centerfire Glock since the shark fin on the G44 bar is longer. The longer shark fin can cause the centerfire slide to not close fully.

The top one is a centerfire trigger and bottom is a G44 trigger.

Image


For the OP, The most likely cause of your issues is that you do not have enough sear engagement. As mentioned, get an armorer's inspection plate and check the engagement.
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
Not so much the connector, but the trigger bar.; but can be the connector.


You might enjoy the armorers class.
I suspect I would too.

I will dispel one thing. YES you absolutely use a standard Gen 5 trigger bar in a G44 without any issues. I have done so with OEM Glock G44 and G19 frames (with G44 ejector) and with several 80% frames I have built.

Now you very well can/will have issues using a G44 trigger bar in a centerfire Glock since the shark fin on the G44 bar is longer. The longer shark fin can cause the centerfire slide to not close fully.

The top one is a centerfire trigger and bottom is a G44 trigger.

View attachment 1265744

For the OP, The most likely cause of your issues is that you do not have enough sear engagement. As mentioned, get an armorer's inspection plate and check the engagement.
Thanks for the suggestion and photo of the difference in trigger bars. I have the G44 (39453) on the way.
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
Armorer's plate and G44 trigger bar came in today. I installed the new G44 (39453) trigger bar along with the Ghost connector and was confident the binary issue was gone. However, during the first few mags the gun went binary several time. This now leads me to believe that the Ghost connector combined with the G44 is the issue. It's strange that this combo seems to have 2/3 engagement. Watch this unlisted video below, you cannot tell in the video but the first shot is on the pull, the next is on the release. This was with the Ghost connector and the brand new OEM trigger bar:

I have installed the OEM G44 connector and fired 40 rounds without issue and so far so good. Time will tell if there is still an issue.

I now have 495 rounds through the gun. 420 rounds of Win white box and 40 rounds of Fed AutoMatch. I've only had 2 failures with this ammo..... one was a light strike that went off on the 2nd pull. The other was a feeding issue. All rounds fired through both OEM G44 mags and ProMag 18rnd mags.
 
With the armoror's plate on and the Ghost connector in, did you rack the slide and hold the trigger to the rear in order to watch "why" it's firing on release as you slowly release the trigger? I bet if you did that, it would turn out something really interesting to observe.
 
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