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I am sure any of those would be fine. I have a DB10 and have not had any problems with it. Probably 1000 rounds through it. I picked it up cheap and liked it so much I put a Timney AR10 single stage trigger, BA barrel and linear comp. The bolt likes to be lubed or the action gets tight, I am guessing it will get better as it breaks in. It seems to be extremely well made. Good luck!

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I guess I have had 8 AR10s in .308 now. Last one to go was a Daniel Defense and current is based on Stag10, but with barrels from other manufacturers that I believe are better configured for me.

In my opinion, there are two better choices depending on use. The Ruger SFAR and the Stag10, in a configuration that appeals to you.
 
I’m looking at AR10’s too. Is ammo choice a problem? Most compatible with 308 and 7.62? The Rugers look interesting. Are they field proven? I don’t have a specific purpose other than general use.
 
I have a colt 901 I'll shoot someday
 
I guess I have had 8 AR10s in .308 now. Last one to go was a Daniel Defense and current is based on Stag10, but with barrels from other manufacturers that I believe are better configured for me.

In my opinion, there are two better choices depending on use. The Ruger SFAR and the Stag10, in a configuration that appeals to you.
For non-gaming, muzzle brakes or hiders?
 
For non-gaming, muzzle brakes or hiders?
That is a difficult question to answer.

FH really do nothing for me. Brakes let you see impacts, which can be beneficial, but more noise to the shooter. Suppressor is always a good choice, if you can have them and want to afford them.

120g bullets at about 2800, I can't see impacts with the bolt gun and nothing on the muzzle. But in the gas gun, it's really close. Like at about 300 yards prone, I can usually see hits. A minimal comp that does not add too much concussion lets me see hits easily with a gas gun based on the .308 cartridge.
 
I’m looking at AR10’s too. Is ammo choice a problem? Most compatible with 308 and 7.62? The Rugers look interesting. Are they field proven? I don’t have a specific purpose other than general use.
Ammo choice is not really a problem. 7.62 Nato has less pressure than .308Win, and almost all (every one I have ever seen) are .308 chambered. Most will run the 7.62 Nato just fine since they are overgassed for .308Win.

Yes, the Rugers are field proven, and durable.

My "standard" .308 load is Nosler Custom Competition 140g at about 2800. Very close to 6.5CM ballistics and recoil. I shoot that load in 3Gun from the 18" barreled .308 and in my integrally suppressed .308 bolt gun. Perfectly fine, soft recoil, long barrel life and brass life, out to 800 yards. If I am shooting to 1000, I will go to 155 Palmas or Heavier Sierra Match Kings.
 
That is a difficult question to answer.

FH really do nothing for me. Brakes let you see impacts, which can be beneficial, but more noise to the shooter. Suppressor is always a good choice, if you can have them and want to afford them.

120g bullets at about 2800, I can't see impacts with the bolt gun and nothing on the muzzle. But in the gas gun, it's really close. Like at about 300 yards prone, I can usually see hits. A minimal comp that does not add too much concussion lets me see hits easily with a gas gun based on the .308 cartridge.
Thanks. I run SFMB’s and warcomp closed tines on several 5.56 rifles and the warcomp does almost as well with muzzle rise and they’re much quieter.
 
Ammo choice is not really a problem. 7.62 Nato has less pressure than .308Win, and almost all (every one I have ever seen) are .308 chambered. Most will run the 7.62 Nato just fine since they are overgassed for .308Win.

Yes, the Rugers are field proven, and durable.

My "standard" .308 load is Nosler Custom Competition 140g at about 2800. Very close to 6.5CM ballistics and recoil. I shoot that load in 3Gun from the 18" barreled .308 and in my integrally suppressed .308 bolt gun. Perfectly fine, soft recoil, long barrel life and brass life, out to 800 yards. If I am shooting to 1000, I will go to 155 Palmas or Heavier Sierra Match Kings.
Awesome. Great info. Thx
 
I guess I have had 8 AR10s in .308 now. Last one to go was a Daniel Defense and current is based on Stag10, but with barrels from other manufacturers that I believe are better configured for me.

In my opinion, there are two better choices depending on use. The Ruger SFAR and the Stag10, in a configuration that appeals to you.
A friend has the SFAR and raves about it. So much so it is on my short list - as soon as I can justify adding another .308 to the herd!
Thanks. I run SFMB’s and warcomp closed tines on several 5.56 rifles and the warcomp does almost as well with muzzle rise and they’re much quieter.
I have been running the warcomp (closed tines) trading off with a warden and a socom. The warden is an interesting change, and focuses the blast forward pretty well, but with some flash in a short barrel. Not picking up a dust cloud from prone, and quieter alongside the shooter than just a warcomp.
Not a replacement for the socom, except when considering a close quarters situation on a shorter barrel.
 
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I had a DB carbine I got on sale, blem, had some bad roll pin installs, nothing which affected function. <600 bucks.

After putting a diff trigger, NiB carrier and bolt, with adjustable gas key, yhm suppressor mount, diff furniture and pg, and glass it weighed more than my Para FAL, with none of the cool factor, or adjustable gas, and that with plastic mags. Ugh. Gave it to my brother.

Spied the SFAR...a Ruger (suspicious side eye) then watched Hop vids on it.

7lbs, magpul furn, adjustable gas!, small frame. <1000 bucks.

Got it. Love it. Shoots like a dream with a can. Was smacking the 3" gong all day @100 like it was cool!
 
They start out with "I paid over a grand for this and ZOMG it's soo gooood...", but by about page 4 or 5 they start to realize that it sucks.
(Pro Tip) A page on ARFcom does not make it so.
 
What's your recommendation for an entry rifle and an upgrade rifle?
On a side note, is DD notable as a mid to upper tier?
I don’t do “entry”, so can’t help you there.

I’m a late convert to 7.62 ARs, having gone through HK91s/51s, Galils, and FALs before buying ARs. I owned LWRC REPRs (Marks I and II) before moving to the LMT MARS-H. All great guns. I’ve fingered and shot a DD5, it was a nice gun but DD doesn’t do it for me.
 
What's your recommendation for an entry rifle and an upgrade rifle?
On a side note, is DD notable as a mid to upper tier?
The AR world for AR15 is much different than the "AR10" world. While many of the key internals are interchangeable, the frames (receivers) are not.
In the "AR10"esq world there are 2 (possibly 3) types to consider - the Armalite pattern and the DPMS pattern predominate (forgive me if this is already something you know). Why is this important? Because the two patterns are not interchangeable - and a good "entry level" .308 can facilitate a down the road higher end upper of the same pattern. So for Armalite, Wilson, etc that are the (diagonal cut) Armalite pattern there are much fewer options for purchasing an upgraded upper later on. I do not own a DD in .308, but the one (and only one) I have seen looks like a modified Armalite pattern - not compatible with WIlson/Armalite
With the DPMS pattern there is more availability. (remembering the operative term is availability - not all manufacturers make just uppers available all the time). I have not encountered any final advantage to either pattern in the builds I have done (I have built both) but there are loyalists out there that may have stronger opinions beyond availability.
For for the .308 world of ARs, my suggestion would be a lower (or complete rifle) in the DPMS pattern. maybe a Aero Precision. I rarely see critical areas for the lower in accuracy and dependability if a quality manufacturer is selected and if building, quality components are purchased.
Exceptions - If you choose Wilson, I have friends who have run into problems with Wilson components in "other than Wilson" receivers. Nothing that I could not fix, but they required q bit of true gunsmithing, where I have had friends sail through an Aero build with all Aero parts pretty easily and end up with a decent gun "out of the box".

But - if I were just starting out today, with no true gunsmithing capability and /or limited tools, and a limited budget, I would look pretty hard at some of the major brand base models (Smith, Ruger, Springfield, Aero, etc.) which are sold/supported by a local gun store (just in case I needed need help). And I would look hard at the SFAR (I do not know the interchangeability for uppers on that model though).

You will likely spend $1,000-$1400 on a base model AR in .308. (you may find better prices if you shop around). The defining characteristics will likely be furniture, sights and quality of BCG/bolt. Most will have GI spec triggers of similar quality, and barrels of "somewhat" similar quality. Accuracy will likely range from .75 moa to 2 moa, depending on barrel/ammo/shooter. But I would strongly suggest buying something you can pick up and feel if it your first .308 AR - they are not as ubiquitous as the AR15 - heavier, and with crappy furniture can feel clunky.

But - if you decide to compete or upgrade, the most common areas to upgrade a base model are triggers, sights, furniture for the non-gunsmith. All are easily changed out with minimal expertise. These can be a bit expensive (.308 AR parts as a rule are sold at a premium compared to Ar15 parts). The triggers I have come to appreciate are $200-$325, really good furniture is even more expensive, and sights - (I hate plastic sights) even new irons can be $200. So if you compare a higher grade such as DD, Wilson, etc. off the shelf and the base with upgrades you quickly get to the same end $ - but it may be more personalized in the end.

There is a passionate, informed and uninformed debate about barrels. Some will say the barrels on a Wilson (for example) are "better" than an Aero (for example)- I would say that depends on what you are expecting/needing/using it for. I have both and each shoot pretty close to the same (comparing apples to apples). I have a few of different lengths and the best (for me) is the 18" or 20" barrel which seems to give good velocity and consistent accuracy.

There are more people out there who are happy as a clam with an unaltered, basic .308 than the "need to be better" crowd - and their .308 is no less lethal than one of mine. In the end we share the same objective - for the shooter to be happy, confident, accurate (and safe!) with their weapon.
There are no medals for spending more money! But for someone like me it is very hard not to be constantly looking for ways to improve the firearm (especially if I own it for the protection/safety for me and mine). I have probably saved a lot of money learning how to troubleshoot, build and machine parts and tools that I can use, and become a better shooter as well.

Sorry to all for the length of this post...hopefully there is a worthwhile sentence or two in there somewhere.
 
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