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Yea, I’ll say that I don’t buy the hype of the MOS plates being a mechanical problem. When I see a video of an optic falling off, all I see is bad install! I think installed correctly (proper screws, torque and loctite) they should work just fine.

bit you can get so much better for so little it’s a no brainer.
 
Simply put and all you need to no is the oem plates are garbage, too thin and COULD break causing all the stress on the mounting screws to sheet off. Go with c&h precision. They have built in lush that take all the stress off the mounting screws. Think of the oem plates as pop metal and precision plate as steel. Don’t even waste the time. Buy once, cry once.
You weren't kidding about the crying part.
 
The Glock MOS plates will work just fine, as long as you have the correct screws and locking compound. Nearly all problems with the MOS plates have been due to, usually, too long of sight screws causing the plate to warp or too short causing the sight to eventually fly off under recoil. When using a Trijicon RMR with the MOS plate it's a must to use Trijicon's mounting kit which has a sealing plate and proper mounting screws.

The only area where I would have doubts on the MOS plates is racking the slide continuously with the red dot against a solid object. That could cause the plate to crack or fail, but I would believe a lot of racking would have to go down for that to happen.

I ended up replacing my MOS plate, which was working just fine, for a Forward Controls Design plate that not only looks much better, fits much better but is made of stronger steel than the MOS plates. I use an RMR and the sealing plate is no longer required, plus FCD includes the proper screws and locking compound.
 
I had a Gen4 G41 MOS with Holosun 507C and Glock OEM plate. I had about 1,000 rounds through it with the optic on there before I sold the gun. Had been carried frequently. I experienced no problems.

I now have a Gen5 G19MOS with Holosun 507C and Glock OEM plate. About 5,000 rounds through it with the optic. Probably 5,000 draw strokes too; I do a lot of dry-fire and holster practice. Gets frequent carry and gets use in GSSF and Steel Challenge. At one point this spring, I removed the optic for a couple of matches and remounted it again. I have not experienced any problems.

Use Loctite and the right screws.


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Nothing specific. I was just looking at the price. I don't know much about those things but it seems expensive for what it is. I've been looking at new Glocks and saw the MOS thing and I am trying to figure out if it's something I need, or even want.
Ya just comes down to if you are a red dot person or think you might wanna try one on the future. I tend to think better to have and not use them not have and want. Just leave the factory cover on until you chose to go with a dot.
 
Nothing specific. I was just looking at the price. I don't know much about those things but it seems expensive for what it is. I've been looking at new Glocks and saw the MOS thing and I am trying to figure out if it's something I need, or even want.
There is several options and some will swear the factory plates the pistol comes with are just fine. It’s personal preference. The c&h is the spendy of the plates but known to be well worth the price. Lasts a lifetime. I specifically like them because when mounted it takes all recoil force off optic screws and is absorbed by the recoil lugs built into the plate. It’s a great design.
 
I think it comes down to mechanical aptitude. If several lengths of screws are available and you're unable to solve the puzzle then you need to pay a stupid tax of $100 to purchase a substitute for ability. Thank God they have a solution or they'd be telling us red dots are no good because they fall off.
 
I ended up replacing my MOS plate, which was working just fine, for a Forward Controls Design plate that not only looks much better, fits much better but is made of stronger steel than the MOS plates.
FCD = CNC Machine Tool Steel, QPQ Nitride finish

OEM Glock = MIM (Metal Injection Molded) Just like HotWheels! :ROFLMAO:

If you want to just "do the do" and not worry about it, FCD. I realize this is not what you asked, but I wanted to state it anyway.

Also, I do realize there are TONS of MIM parts in firearms today, I'm just not a fan. I came from the 1911 world, quality tool steel parts.. yes please.
 
I am hoping to avoid the back and forth, but was hoping to hear from shooters’ real experience with the plates. Thank you though
There are some members here who have a ton of experience and offer some pretty solid advice...

@FireMedic-50 is one such user.




I myself have no experience with the Glock plate other than...

About a year ago, I was still employed by a large Federal Agency which is in the process of converting to Red Dots.

Using the Glock plate was NOT an option.
 
C and H for the win. I can’t compare it to OEM plates since I haven’t used them but the fit and finish for this is money. The $80 was worth it.

Thank you all.
Excellent choice.

$80 is a drop in the bucket for all the OTHER items you are going to need.... 🤣

The RMR isn't cheap...the extended sights are a bit pricy.



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Discussion starter · #40 ·
Excellent choice.

$80 is a drop in the bucket for all the OTHER items you are going to need.... 🤣

The RMR isn't cheap...the extended sights are a bit pricy.

In total $590. I didn’t get the green dot/ 508t for cheap.
The gentleman I ordered from charged:
$420 for the optic
$80 Ameriglo supp. Height sights (blacked out rear, tritium front with yellow outline)
*Prices above includes installation/ tax/ shipping
$90 for the plate. I ordered directly from CH with expedited shipping.

I went to the range to zero today. Right now, closing in on what I want. I’m hitting within 3-5 inch groups for 15 yd zero. I don’t have a sturdy rest, and I’m seeing a starburst for a center dot. I asked my wife to make me an eye appointment today. I don’t care if I need to squint to read, but I do want to see a clear dot.

View attachment 1217039
 
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