Thanks for the technical term for it I seriously hate not calling parts by the real name. I just had no idea what it was.
As for the spring I'm definitely gonna fix that today and I'll follow his advice to the T
I seriously appreciate all you guys spending all that time and effort working with me on this.
I'm glad I gotta fixed also but I know your thinking what I did wasn't the real fix to the problem and I'm really believing that myself. I didn't think the chair coat was an issue at all but there's a good chance it could be and that spring along with the section of frame that needs to be sanded down a little further could be the real issue here. So I truly appreciate itst
It just occurred to me that maybe this new slide sits slightly lower, and maybe that forces the recoil spring lower - giving it less wiggle room than it did with the previous slide. Just thinking out loud. As such, perhaps the recoil spring is more likely to bind on the protruding slide lock spring and excess remaining RSA channel block.
I still don't think it was the "shark fin" (trigger bar extension), since I cannot see ANY marks on the slide. Maaaaaybe I'm wrong! LOL! But I don't think so.
In any case.... With a new upper, you effectively have a "new build." I would function test the gun (after whatever you have decided to do to it to fix it) by cycling the action with SNAP CAPS (not live ammo). Does it feed and eject reliably / consistently?
Is the trigger resetting properly? If you hold the trigger back when racking the slide, does it reset when you release it?
Also check the sear engagement (with an armorer's back plate). It should be at least 2/3rds coverage. Preferrably 3/4 or more.
I also drop test (again with snap caps) all my builds. I drop it multiple times from shoulder height with the gun in all six orientations (on each side, muzzle down, back down, grip down, slide down, etc.).