[Twan_10]

Received it back today, Paper listed parts: Firing Pin, Trigger/Bar, Firing Pin Safety. The engagement is better than 100% as far as I can see, can no longer feel "play" between Cruciform and TMH. If I push down (gently) on the Cruciform it does not move as it did before, only flexes slightly with engagement still within spec.

I had noticed before what appeared to be plating chipping/flaking off from the Firing Pin Safety, although I did not say anything about this to them, looks good now.

I sent it out on a Thursday, got it back to me in under two weeks. I consider that impressive, and am satisfied at this point. Will test it soon, expect it is/will be good to go.

Thanks Again to All for their input.

 

[Wickj]

SOP for a new Glock: 1) field strip and clean/lightly lube; 2) pack range bag; 3) go to range; 4) shoot some rounds; 5) if works (pretty much always does) you’re good.

I have no idea WTF you’re doing.

 

[D20]

SOP for a new Glock: 1) field strip and clean/lightly lube; 2) pack range bag; 3) go to range; 4) shoot some rounds; 5) if works (pretty much always does) you’re good.

I have no idea WTF you’re doing.

He performed a safety inspection on a new, unfired Glock, and found poor cruciform engagement. It's a smart thing to do, and it seems most do not do this.

OP potentially got lucky because he could have assumed everything was good, and rolled with an unsafe gun for a very long time.

 

[Twan_10]

SOP

I have no idea WTF you’re doing.

Obviously, you have made that apparent.

SOP- The first letter signifies Standard, as in routine. This is not normally something an "operator" would do as part of a normal procedure.

You could potentially read what some others have added to the topic (someone even posted a manual pic), I believe I explained my reasoning. But I gather you can't be bothered with that. Perhaps you are busy telling others "how it is".

Thanks for your perspective.

 

[cciman]

The mystery still lingers. The mystery of whether the incidental finding by the observant OP has any relevance on the true risk of malfunction on a factory new Glock.
Unfortunately, we still don't know, and won't know.

I am happy that the OP is happy. Now go shoot it.

 

[Twan_10]

The mystery still lingers. The mystery of whether the incidental finding by the observant OP has any relevance on the true risk of malfunction on a factory new Glock.
Unfortunately, we still don't know, and won't know.

I am happy that the OP is happy. Now go shoot it.

I don't believe I ever implied nor alluded that my situation is or could be relevant to the majority of new units.

The fact is this particular example was out of spec on a known standard safety check, now it is not. I believe it is not common, although an example of what is possible.

Can you accept that things in this world are not either "All Good" nor "All Bad", and that things could, from time to time, vary from what is expected?

Thanks for your authoritative assumption, regardless of it's relevancy.

 

[CBTENGR]

A lemon is going to slip out now and then. This is especially true for manufactures like Glock that produce a lot of pistols each and every month.

Like I stated before. While this is not a common problem, it DOES happen enough to be noticed.

I give that most owners will not have an armorers manual nor will they do a full function/safety test per the armorer's manual. Otherwise we would probable see more instances of bad sear engagement. Being retired military plus a retired machinist and gunsmith, I do always perform a full safety/function test of all new/new to me firearms.

 

[Dreday40]

Minimum engagement should be 2/3rds, if it's less you should replace the trigger bar. The result of too little engagement can be double fires - dangerous because the 2nd shot is unexpected and there's always a risk when a round is going somewhere you didn't plan for it. If you're able to make the gun release the spring while it's on the drop fire safety - you are way over the line.

Typically, the cause is simply tolerance stacking. All individual parts are within spec but on the opposite edges of it, so combined they are out.

Is it worth trying to fix the cruciform to stop my build from double/triple firing or should i just replace the whole trigger assembly on my glock 19 build?

 

[mtstream]

Is it worth trying to fix the cruciform to stop my build from double/triple firing or should i just replace the whole trigger assembly on my glock 19 build?

When a factory Glock does that, typically replacing the trigger bar is enough. But, the word “build” introduces a lot of possible variables. Is the frame an 80% lower or mfg? If you feel confident the frame is good, even the entire trigger assembly isn’t much money. If the frame is off, there’s not much that can be done.

 

[CBTENGR]

Installing the Pre-EH trigger bar does usually help improve sear engagement without having to bend the cruciform. This works well with OEM Glock pistols and with home build 80% frames.

Glock Factory Trigger with Trigger Bar Glock 19 Pre-EH Serial

 

[cciman]

Is it worth trying to fix the cruciform to stop my build from double/triple firing or should i just replace the whole trigger assembly on my glock 19 build?

It's a build. You've identified the problem. So YES, it's worth trying to fix the cruciform, because it's a "build". There's no guarantee that putting stock parts in it will change the tolerance issue.

 

[D20]

Is it worth trying to fix the cruciform to stop my build from double/triple firing or should i just replace the whole trigger assembly on my glock 19 build?

What percentage is your current engagement?

If you're using a Gen 3 housing, try a Gen 4 housing, but clip the little triangles off of the bottom of the Gen 4 housing, and/or use the pre-EH trigger bar that was suggested to you.

The Gen 4 housings are known to provide better sear engagement when used in a Gen 3 frame/clone.