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Is it the connector or the spring in the trigger housing? Or both? Thanks so much!!
Both The angle of the connector coupled with the spring


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Great info here


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Is it the connector or the spring in the trigger housing? Or both? Thanks so much!!
IMO, of all the components, the striker spring has the most influence on pull weight .
Not smart to monkey with the striker spring on a self-defense gun.
I go down to 4.0 lbs for range guns. (OEM is 5.5lbs)

The connector does impact pull weight depending on the degree of "slope" in the design.
I like the Glock OEM "Minus" or "Dot" connectors because they retain "wall".
Some aftermarket connectors yield a "rolling break" with no or very little wall.
I like a wall.
YMMV

The trigger spring is often and erroneously called the "reset spring".
When in fact it pulls the wrong way to be a reset spring.
Its job is to help overcome the last 30% of the charge on the striker spring.
It's been estimated that the final 30% of striker spring charge is done by the trigger press on a Glock.
I agree with that. The OEM trigger spring is 5.0lbs

Some will substitute a 6.0lb aftermarket trigger spring to lessen pull weight, which it does.
But it also degrades reset quality. If you like a crisp, tactile reset, then you may not like the 6.0lb trigger spring trick.
 
My formula is 4.5 lb. Wolffe striker spring, Wolffe reduced power plunger spring, either a Glock Dot connector or a Ghost Ultimate connector depending on if you prefer a hard wall or lighter trigger. Don't do the 6# trigger spring stay with factory. Reset is better.
 
Don't do the 6# trigger spring stay with factory. Reset is better.
I use a heavy trigger spring in one of my 41's (range time, only) and though the reset isn't as crisp with the 5lb spring, it is still pretty crisp. I haven't had a reset problem with it, yet, but I don't want it in there if I'm relying on it for PD. Even rapid firing as fast as I can yank the trigger, it always resets.

OEM minus connector.
Debur all trigger parts bearing surfaces and polish to mirror finish.
6 lb trigger spring
lower power plunger spring
lower power striker spring
hone inside spacer sleeve (not as easy as you think)
syn grease on trigger parts bearing surfaces

Doing all these could get you under 4lbs on a trigger pull gauge but you don't want to do this to your carry gun.....range gun, only. With only the trigger polish and a heavy duty trigger spring from Wolf, one of my 41's is dead nuts on 4lbs, consistently, but I spent a good amount of time polishing the parts that rub together during the trigger pull. A Qtip won't do it.
 
A well trained finger makes the perception of the Glock trigger lighter.
When you start a handgun training class, the stock trigger feels normal. By the end of several days and 1000 rounds of trigger pulling, the trigger magically feels like it's almost nothing - when you point and aim, it magically shoots like you willed it to shoot- You suddenly become one with the trigger.
 
Glock does not perform secondary operations on its firearms which means I can work on it to achieve whatever trigger feel I like. 1911 trigger, Glock wall etc...

Performing secondary operations such as polishing, stoning, cutting out flash and light grinding make a world of difference.
 
Striker spring, trigger spring, connector, striker block spring all affect pull weight. Geometry of the last 4 as well. Polish helps a bit.

I've had sub 2# Glock triggers with all safeties operational, but that is rare.

A 3.5 connector with a 6# trigger spring and an overtravel stop is what I put in my G20SF. No sacrifice in reliability and a lot better than factory. The overtravel stop might be the biggest benefit of all 3 mods I do.
 
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A well trained finger makes the perception of the Glock trigger lighter.
When you start a handgun training class, the stock trigger feels normal. By the end of several days and 1000 rounds of trigger pulling, the trigger magically feels like it's almost nothing - when you point and aim, it magically shoots like you willed it to shoot- You suddenly become one with the trigger.
cciman in before me with a great answer.

The 1000 Round Trigger Job is the way to master the Glock Triggernometry and enlightenment in the Way of Zen and Glock Perfection.
 
Trigger time makes for a better trigger, we know, but some like to slow fire for groups. Harder to do that with a trigger that stacks or has a 6lb pull. As accurate as Glocks are, it makes sense to have a nice trigger on a range gun.
 
Anyone have a suggestion for eliminating the rolling break of the typical Gen5 trigger? I added the oem "minus" connector which lightened the pull a bit as expected. But now that AK like creepy break is even more apparent. I want a wall and crispiness.
 
Trigger time makes for a better trigger, we know, but some like to slow fire for groups. Harder to do that with a trigger that stacks or has a 6lb pull. As accurate as Glocks are, it makes sense to have a nice trigger on a range gun.
What is a "range gun"?

I got to the range to practice to use my guns. The trigger, and preferably the whole gun, should be what I am practicing to use, whether it is competition, hunting or self-defense. If you go to the range because you think it's fun to make holes in paper, just buy a hole punch and save yourself a lot of money.
 
I will probably take some heat for this but go to Johnny glocks website. Watch some of his videos and you will learn a lot about Glock triggers. I don’t work for him but I do use one of his triggers in a G19. No need to buy but good lessons on the trigger operation.


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I went down this road with my first Glock. I changed out the connector to change the trigger pull. One trip to the range after I changed it, I changed it back. I felt it was too light. I'm now up to 10 Glocks and all have the same Glock stock triggers in them. IMO the money is better spent on Ammo, extra mags and maybe night sights.
 
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