[timelinex]

Back Story:
I have many pistols (glocks, 1911's etc..) and while they all have their advantages and disadvantages, Glock has always been my favorite. So this is NOT a glock bashing thread.

I bought a glock 19 about a year ago from Glockmeister for my wife. When I got it home is when the problems started. The slide was so stiff that I had trouble racking it at all(I figured it was a new pistol so I don’t have to check it before purchasing, lesson learned). I brought it back to the store and they said it was semi-common for new pistols and after we worked the slide a lot it ‘broke in’ and was no longer too stiff. That’s just when the problems started though. After shooting it, I had major issues with stove pipes and the brass ejecting straight back at the face. The store replaced the disconnector bar which didn’t help. Then they replaced the recoil spring which DID help. It started working good with no malfunctions but the brass still flung straight back. We decided to live with that. Then the gun didn't see much action since. (To be clear, I have no gripes with the store and I was actually very satisfied that they atleast tried to resolve it on their dime. They could have just told me to call glock corporate and figure it out on my own)

The Issue Now:
Fast forward to now and my wife did her first competition with it. She is a bit smaller (5'2" 100lb) so by the end the recoil affected her grip strength. With the last 20 rounds of the match, almost every single shot resulted in a stovepipe. The cause of this is obviously limp wristing, but this is NOT an excuse. A reliable gun should work no matter what. To further this point, she tried my glock 34 and while the brass still went into her face because of the limp wristing, it cycled perfectly. Then she tried my Kimber 1911 and apparently the “unreliable 1911”(glock fan boys words, not mine) worked with no problem. Same limp wristing and ammo except the brass ejected to the side as it is supposed to and it still functioned perfectly for her.

The point of this thread is NOT to discuss why the gun should or should not function without perfect form. The point is to ask what I can do to this pistol to make it function.

As I see it, the problem is that not enough energy is being provided to the slide to work it properly. Obviously it sounds like I can use more powerful ammo, since tulammo is known to be on the weaker side. This is NOT a valid solution for me though. IF this was one of my safe queens/range toys/collectibles, I would agree that you work with what you got and find what it likes. Glocks should run EVERYTHING (That’s their selling point). I'm not complaining about accuracy, i'm complaining about the gun not working. Tulammo works great in all my other pistols except this Glock. In fact, I’ve found it to be more accurate out of most my pistols than most of my other ammo. I tried different ammo in this Glock when I had issues before and while it helped, it didn’t fix those issues. So maybe it would help this issue now, However I don’t want to accept this as the solution.

The other option then is to FIX the gun. What can be done? Any knowledgeable suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[chandne]

I think you have tried a few things I would have. It may be time to send it to Glock and let them look it over. I agree...a Glock should cycle practically anything but a super weak load or something unusual. A G19 is known to be a really reliable gun.

 

[mity2]

You might want to look in to Apex Tactical's Failure Resistant Extractor for Gen4 Glock

http://modernserviceweapons.com/?p=4296

https://store.apextactical.com/WebDirect/Products/Details/191895

Sorry it won't let me link it. Just copy and past above 2 link. I think you'll find it VERY informative

 

[L-2]

-ensure it has the 0-4-3 (read clockwise) recoil spring assembly.
-ensure it has the latest ejector marked 30274.

Otherwise, some guns don't work correctly for reasons unknown. Glock may replace it, but may charge you the shipping costs to return it. If it's a new gun they send, then the dealer may need to charge you re-registering, perhaps depending on your state of residence.

Determine if the gun will function well with other shooters. If it does, perhaps they'd like to buy it from you. Some guns just don't work well with certain shooters, also for unknown reasons.

You can spend much time & money attempting to diagnose these unknown issues. There's 9mm ammo at ~$300/1K rounds; there's driving to a range; there are range fees; there's the time involved; there may be various parts solutions to try. The ApexTactical extractor delivered was almost $80 and still didn't work for me for my gen3 guns. It also suggested a different spring loaded bearing (more money for parts).

If the G34 is working well, perhaps get another one. Perhaps borrowing/trying someone else's G19gen4 will have better results, narrowing down to your particular gun.

 

[harold63]

A reliable gun should work no matter what.

“unreliable 1911”(glock fan boys words, not mine) worked with no problem.

I didn't switch 'cause 1911's are unreliable. They are as reliable as anything out there as long as some doofus didn't put it together. Ya just can't drop one in cat litter while in condition 1 and expect it to fire, perfectly, like a Glock will.

Reliable guns usually do work no matter what, but if someone can't grip the gun, how's it suppose to function? 1911's that are weak sprung will cycle shooting them off a table, but is that the best thing for the gun? I never shot fast ammo out of my target 1911's 'cause it felt like two train cars coming together when the slide bottomed.

If the gun functioned well after your dealer replaced the RS, it should still. I'd simply have my wife train so she can grip the gun throughout the entire competition. If she wants to use a loose grip, you're prolly going to have use an under powered RS.

 

[timelinex]

You might want to look in to Apex Tactical's Failure Resistant Extractor for Gen4 Glock

http://modernserviceweapons.com/?p=4296

https://store.apextactical.com/WebDirect/Products/Details/191895

Sorry it won't let me link it. Just copy and past above 2 link. I think you'll find it VERY informative

Just ordered it from midway, along with the "Glock spring loaded bearing without loaded chamber indicator" (I think this is recommended to be bought with the Apex)

Looks like this solved many issues that people had with extraction. Thank you for the suggestion. The next match is this thursday, so I just overnighted it.

 

[L-2]

These things are very difficult, if not impossible, to figure out on the internet. As requested, suggestions have been made.

Sometimes, by observing the shooter and examining the gun, something may be readily apparent, but we aren't there, only you are. Try to get people to watch your wife shoot; and people to take a look at your G19gen4, too.

Let us know how it all works out.

 

[timelinex]

These things are very difficult, if not impossible, to figure out on the internet. As requested, suggestions have been made.

Sometimes, by observing the shooter and examining the gun, something may be readily apparent, but we aren't there, only you are. Try to get people to watch your wife shoot; and people to take a look at your G19gen4, too.

Let us know how it all works out.

The issue isn't the shooter. I KNOW her grip is weak and thats what is exposing the guns issues. I can run through 2 magazines as fast as my finger will let me on the gun and not have any stovepipes. However the gun should work under ALL 'normal' conditions (normal being any realistic stance/grip,any factory ammo, realistic temperatures , etc...) . My other ones do while this one does not.

I will let you guys know how the extractor change does.

Are the after market SS springs that glockmeister sells weaker or stronger? Is there a weaker spring you guys might recommend, or is that a bad idea?

 

[timelinex]

-ensure it has the 0-4-3 (read clockwise) recoil spring assembly.
-ensure it has the latest ejector marked 30274.

Otherwise, some guns don't work correctly for reasons unknown. Glock may replace it, but may charge you the shipping costs to return it. If it's a new gun they send, then the dealer may need to charge you re-registering, perhaps depending on your state of residence.

Determine if the gun will function well with other shooters. If it does, perhaps they'd like to buy it from you. Some guns just don't work well with certain shooters, also for unknown reasons.

You can spend much time & money attempting to diagnose these unknown issues. There's 9mm ammo at ~$300/1K rounds; there's driving to a range; there are range fees; there's the time involved; there may be various parts solutions to try. The ApexTactical extractor delivered was almost $80 and still didn't work for me for my gen3 guns. It also suggested a different spring loaded bearing (more money for parts).

If the G34 is working well, perhaps get another one. Perhaps borrowing/trying someone else's G19gen4 will have better results, narrowing down to your particular gun.

I will check the ejector, however I thought all Gen4's come with this new ejector?

 

[PAGunner]

How has the ejection pattern been on the gun? Consistent or erratic?

 

[timelinex]

How has the ejection pattern been on the gun? Consistent or erratic?

What would be considered erratic?

When my wife shoots it, it consistently ejects either right next to her face, or right at her and down her shirt.

 

[PAGunner]

What would be considered erratic?

When my wife shoots it, it consistently ejects either right next to her face, or right at her and down her shirt.

Anything other than 3-4 O'clock ejection 99% of the time. Seems guns with erratic ejection and occasional brass to the face sometimes develop issues with stove pipes.

 

[timelinex]

Anything other than 3-4 O'clock ejection 99% of the time. Seems guns with erratic ejection and occasional brass to the face sometimes develop issues with stove pipes.

Yes, the gun definitely does NOT eject to the normal 3-4 oclock position for her.

I rarely use the gun, so I can't remember where it ejects for me, but I will try it out tomorrow.

I've got another idea. Should I go in and polish all parts that have wear marks? I just polished all the trigger parts on my 34 the other day with a buffing dremel and that was easy enough. Maybe polishing all the slide wear marks will make it run with less resistance and make it function well? The only reason I'm a little reserved on doing this is if we cannot figure out how to fix this, then I think glock might reject working on the gun because polishing it voids warranty or something maybe??

 

[PAGunner]

Yes, the gun definitely does NOT eject to the normal 3-4 oclock position for her.

I rarely use the gun, so I can't remember where it ejects for me, but I will try it out tomorrow.

I've got another idea. Should I go in and polish all parts that have wear marks? I just polished all the trigger parts on my 34 the other day with a buffing dremel and that was easy enough. Maybe polishing all the slide wear marks will make it run with less resistance and make it function well? The only reason I'm a little reserved on doing this is if we cannot figure out how to fix this, then I think glock might reject working on the gun because polishing it voids warranty or something maybe??

Before trying any DIY fixes I'd call Glock. I have a new 19 that has weak ejection with range ammo and an occasional erratic ejection but not bad enough to call Glock yet. Carry ammo ejects flawlessly. If my ejection becomes worse I'll call Glock first and if that fails I think I'll go the route of the Apex extractor (hopefully neither are necessary). I know some have polished wear marks on the extractor and had improved extraction, but at least call Glock first.

 

[Texas solo]

why not just put a weaker (#14) recoil spring in it? That would speed up the slide and aid in the ejection, no?

 

[texas 48]

Yes, the gun definitely does NOT eject to the normal 3-4 oclock position for her.

I rarely use the gun, so I can't remember where it ejects for me, but I will try it out tomorrow.

I've got another idea. Should I go in and polish all parts that have wear marks? I just polished all the trigger parts on my 34 the other day with a buffing dremel and that was easy enough. Maybe polishing all the slide wear marks will make it run with less resistance and make it function well? The only reason I'm a little reserved on doing this is if we cannot figure out how to fix this, then I think glock might reject working on the gun because polishing it voids warranty or something maybe??

Is it a Gen 4 ? if so did you replace the trigger bar to the old 0357 trigger bar? the Gen 4 trigger bar on my G23 gen 4 was draging on the side and caused heavy trigger pull and slowed the slide down. With weak ammo this may lead to FTF and bad extraction. I would do 1 of 2 things. Send it to Glock or trade it non and get a new Glock

 

[valvestem]

It's already been said, but I too would look to the extractor being the culprit. Often any mass produced firearm ejects erratically, and the extractor usually ends up being the cause, even after many folks change out quite a few other gun parts chasing down the fix. Sometimes an extractor even has to be shaped to get to a satisfactory result.

 

[timelinex]

why not just put a weaker (#14) recoil spring in it? That would speed up the slide and aid in the ejection, no?

What are the downsides of this, just higher felt recoil?

 

[valvestem]

What are the downsides of this, just higher felt recoil?

And possible frame damage.

 

[LampShadeActual]

Dear Time,

Stop and send the gun to Glock with a full description of what it does and doesn't do.

Why?

I would not let my wife continue shooting a gun with so much frustration. I would not even let a shooter I hate continue to use that gun.

The usual suggestion is the "limp wrist" in these threads. Everyone has been very nice not gravitating to that. I sometimes post the anti-limp wrist idea. It is a shame every Glock does not operate like one of my Gen4 19s.

As long as you are using standard power ammo for the specific caliber, I don't think limp wristing is a real event. I do not know about steel case Tula ammo.

I have a newish Gen4 19 that short stroked at about 200 rounds. ONCE. It turned out it had metal debris in the striker safety button cavity keeping the firing pin forward. But at the time I thought it short stroked.

So to test it, I loaded some sub power 9mm, really slow, like 900fps in 115 grain FMJ. 3.5 grains Bullseye and a 115FMJ. I fired the 19 two handed, one handed either hand, one handed either hand loosely, a couple of fingers, and then only with my thumb in the back and my finger on the trigger. Recoil pushed it out of my hand and I caught it with my left hand.

That is noteworthy only because even with purposefully sub power ammo and purposefully holding it up, down, left, and right, IT NEVER MALFUNCTIONED ONCE TRYING TO MAKE IT SCREW UP IN THAT 50 ROUNDS. IT SIMPLY WORKED.

SO MUCH FOR LIMP WRISTING. At least in a 19. At least in that 19. It has fired another 1000 rounds plus operating perfectly.

Something is wrong with that 19 of yours and it is not helpful to your wife or your own karma to put up with such things. Glock made it. Glock can fix it. Glock can replace it.

As an aside on the weak grip thing, so what? I once had a pro football linebacker and his 5' nothing 100# wife for a day shooting guns A-Z to see what they liked. Basic intro .22LR up through AR. The wife liked a Glock 26 but held it so weakly it rocked from level to about 60 degrees up everytime she fired it. Worked perfectly. Worked perfectly for the guy too. To quote the wife after burning 13 rounds, "This is f'n power." Each and every one landing in the A zone.:cheerleader:And that's just what she was.


.