Glock Talk banner
  • Notice image

    Glocktalk is a forum community dedicated to Glock enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about Glock pistols and rifles, optics, hunting, gunsmithing, styles, reviews, accessories, and more!

1 - 20 of 26 Posts

BanjoGunner

· Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a stock, gen 3 G26 that is a little over 2 years old on which the trigger has become extremely hard to pull. The pistol has somewhere in the neighborhood of 10-15K rounds (my reloads) through it and, I'm almost afraid to say, has only been cleaned once every 4 or 5 months.

More specifically, the take-up still seems to be smooth, but pulling the last bit to actually release the striker has become very hard; in some cases so hard that it takes two fingers to finish.

I detail stripped the lower down to parts and although everything was a bit dirty, nothing stood out as to what might be affecting the trigger pull. So I cleaned everything thoroughly and put it back together, and the trigger was much better, much like my G17 and G19 triggers. However, after less than 500 rounds, it is starting to get harder to pull again. Not like it was before, but it's definitely on its way.

I've been told that Glock armorers will inspect/refurbish glocks at GSSF matches, and I am a member, but unfortunately I've not been able to make one when they were near by. I've also read that Glock will provide the same service on pistols that are sent to them, and I sent them an email asking about it, but it's been over a week and I've not heard back. If this is in fact true, any guidance would be appreciated, even if it is just to say... be patient, they will get back to you.

I guess the third option would be to buy the parts and repair it myself. I'm comfortable doing this except that I just cannot see what parts might be compromised and, short of buying/replacing everything, I don't know how to proceed. And I'm afraid if I do this, it will turn out to be a problem with the frame and it will have to go back to glock anyway.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Apologies for the novel and thanks...

Daniel
 
I assume you looked for any burrs or ruff spots and didn't find any.

I'm wondering if you apply lube to the connector at the curved area, per Glock manual. Pic shows where.


A drop of oil or grease there(I use TW25B grease) can sometimes help a trigger that gradually gets hard to pull.

Dave
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
I assume you looked for any burrs or ruff spots and didn't find any.

I'm wondering if you apply lube to the connector at the curved area, per Glock manual. Pic shows where.
<pic deleted>
A drop of oil or grease there(I use TW25B grease) can sometimes help a trigger that gradually gets hard to pull.

Dave
No burrs or rough spots to be found, although that doesn't necessarily guarantee there weren't any.

Anyways, I put a little grease on the indicated part and the trigger pull does seem at least a bit better. I'll be back at the range towards the end of the week and be a able to give it a live fire evaluation. I'll report back then.

Thanks for the tip, it is much appreciated...

Daniel
 
The contact surfaces of the connector and trigger bar are nickel plated and may have galled if they went without lubrication for too long, and either or both may need to be replaced if that happened. That's the most important spot on a Glock to lubricate, but be careful not to over-lubricate it.
 
easy to disassemble

easy to shoot spring powered

parts into the unknown

must be reassembled in the correct order.
 
The main parts that move during the "trigger pull" are the trigger / trigger bar, which slides along the disconnector, and also slides "against" the protrusion on the striker / firing pin.

Also involved, is the "hump" on the trigger bar depressing the firing pin safety plunger.

I see that you stripped and cleaned the lower - I would also strip and clean the slide, particularly the striker channel. Make sure the end of the trigger bar and the protrusion of the striker that it moves is free of any damage or burrs.

As to replacing parts, if you end up going that route, the first two parts to swap out would be the trigger / trigger bar and the disconnector.

Since you already have a 17 and 19, either one of those could be a temporary "donor" of the trigger bar and disconnector to see if they are the problem.

Good luck, and let us know how it goes.
 
Make sure that the hook on the trigger return spring is seated correctly (straight up and down) in the trigger bar and connector housing. If the spring gets turned, the end of the hook will dig into the polymer and make the trigger almost impossible to pull.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
The contact surfaces of the connector and trigger bar are nickel plated and may have galled if they went without lubrication for too long, and either or both may need to be replaced if that happened. That's the most important spot on a Glock to lubricate, but be careful not to over-lubricate it.
I did not notice any problems with these surfaces when I inspected them, but I'll check again next time I tear it down.

Make sure that the hook on the trigger return spring is seated correctly (straight up and down) in the trigger bar and connector housing. If the spring gets turned, the end of the hook will dig into the polymer and make the trigger almost impossible to pull.
This was not the problem, but thanks for the suggestion.

Have you pulled the striker out of the slide and cleaned the inside of the slide channel
Sounds as if it has gunk built up inside the striker channel
Mike
The main parts that move during the "trigger pull" are the trigger / trigger bar, which slides along the disconnector, and also slides "against" the protrusion on the striker / firing pin.

Also involved, is the "hump" on the trigger bar depressing the firing pin safety plunger.

I see that you stripped and cleaned the lower - I would also strip and clean the slide, particularly the striker channel. Make sure the end of the trigger bar and the protrusion of the striker that it moves is free of any damage or burrs.

As to replacing parts, if you end up going that route, the first two parts to swap out would be the trigger / trigger bar and the disconnector.

Since you already have a 17 and 19, either one of those could be a temporary "donor" of the trigger bar and disconnector to see if they are the problem.

Good luck, and let us know how it goes.
Yeah, I'm going to go ahead and tear down the slide next, even if there are no issues at the range tomorrow. And thanks for pointing out that the G17/G19/G26 trigger bar and disconnectors are interchangeable; definitely will try that if the problem persists after tearing down the slide.

Thanks everyone for all the ideas/suggestions; much appreciated. I'll report back after hitting the range tomorrow.

Daniel
 
Make sure that the hook on the trigger return spring is seated correctly (straight up and down) in the trigger bar and connector housing. If the spring gets turned, the end of the hook will dig into the polymer and make the trigger almost impossible to pull.
Should look like an S with parts pointed left to right.
 
I have a stock, gen 3 G26 that is a little over 2 years old on which the trigger has become extremely hard to pull. The pistol has somewhere in the neighborhood of 10-15K rounds (my reloads) through it and, I'm almost afraid to say, has only been cleaned once every 4 or 5 months.

More specifically, the take-up still seems to be smooth, but pulling the last bit to actually release the striker has become very hard; in some cases so hard that it takes two fingers to finish.

I detail stripped the lower down to parts and although everything was a bit dirty, nothing stood out as to what might be affecting the trigger pull. So I cleaned everything thoroughly and put it back together, and the trigger was much better, much like my G17 and G19 triggers. However, after less than 500 rounds, it is starting to get harder to pull again. Not like it was before, but it's definitely on its way.
Have you at any time performed a polish job on your trigger components?
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
I hit the range yesterday and the G26 trigger seems to be okay, but still feels a little bit different than the others. It may be my imagination, and it's certainly better than it was before I tore it down, but it just doesn't feel like I remember it. So I'm going to go ahead and tear down the slide next and see where that gets me. Depending on how that goes I will then swap the trigger bar and disconnector with my G19 or G17 per NewportNewsMike's suggestion.
 
Have you pulled the striker out of the slide and cleaned the inside of the slide channel
Sounds as if it has gunk built up inside the striker channel
Mike
This would be my thought as well considering the number of rounds you have run through it. Remember though that once you clean the striker channel, do not use any on it or the striker/spring itself.
 
I hit the range yesterday and the G26 trigger seems to be okay, but still feels a little bit different than the others. It may be my imagination, and it's certainly better than it was before I tore it down, but it just doesn't feel like I remember it. So I'm going to go ahead and tear down the slide next and see where that gets me. Depending on how that goes I will then swap the trigger bar and disconnector with my G19 or G17 per NewportNewsMike's suggestion.
I'd bet that striker & channel is gunked up for certain. I'd also clean out around the extractor and in the extractor plunger channels as well while you're at it.
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
Just finished detail stripping/cleaning the G26 slide and man was it filthy! Not sure exactly how it was impacting the trigger pull, but it was, and the trigger now seems to be restored to its former glory. I'm going to have to detail strip/clean my G17 now. Although it's behaving for now, its got way more rounds through it than the G26.

Thanks everyone for the tips and suggestions, I couldn't have gotten to this point without them.

Daniel
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts