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So there is no thought to the firing pin getting stuck in the forward position thus causing the gun to slam fire? I really do not believe my parts are that worn... I am going to go out tomorrow and try it again. If the same issue continues then the gun will be disassembled and most of the semi worn parts will be replaced.
I would really suggest that you NOT try it again. The gun has already proven itself to be unreliable. Replace the trigger bar and then test the reliability.

As far as the firing pin being stuck, do you detect any hindrance to the firing pin dropping? If you take off the slide and hold it muzzle down, you can depress the firing pin safety and the firing pin should drop down. Also, if you shake the gun, you should be able to hear the firing pin rattle in the liner.

As mentioned, the trigger bar could be bent and the previous owner may have done it on purpose to modify the trigger pressure. That would be a dumb thing to do, but hey, people do dumb things. The fact that the internals appear to have been polished makes that even more likely. It's not just a matter of wear but could also be that the engagement of sear and firing pin lug has been modified by grinding.

To be really safe, you can replace the base plate with the orange version that exposes the lower half of the rear internals. You can see the engagement of sear and firing pin lug to verify that they are completely engaged.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
As far as the firing pin being stuck, do you detect any hindrance to the firing pin dropping? If you take off the slide and hold it muzzle down, you can depress the firing pin safety and the firing pin should drop down. Also, if you shake the gun, you should be able to hear the firing pin rattle in the liner.I did that last evening all is good there.

As mentioned, the trigger bar could be bent and the previous owner may have done it on purpose to modify the trigger pressure. There was no previous owner and I have not bent anything.That would be a dumb thing to do, but hey, people do dumb things. The fact that the internals appear to have been polished makes that even more likely. I have never polished anything on this gun. I would guess the polished look is from the 1000's of rounds run down the barrel. It's not just a matter of wear but could also be that the engagement of sear and firing pin lug has been modified by grinding. Nope, No grinding by me

To be really safe, you can replace the base plate with the orange version that exposes the lower half of the rear internals. You can see the engagement of sear and firing pin lug to verify that they are completely engaged.[/QUOTE]

Now to find the part here locally. I might just replace the whole lower half (parts that is)
 
Have a certiied Glock armorer check out the engagement between the firing pin and the trigger bar. The trigger bar, firing pin or both may need replacement.
 
This wouldn't be an early model 19? The early 19's required a trigger bar with a '+' marking at the cruciform. The end of the bar which engages the firing pin is slightly higher on '+' marked triggger bars. I don't have the serial numbers which required this trigger bar with me, but can get it for you if you PM me.

A certified armorer has a special slide cover plate which is used to check the engagement which must be at least 66%. If it is not a least this amount, the trigger bar/trigger assembly is usually replaced, then rechecked - if it still is out-of-spec the firing pin is replaced and then rechecked. (cheaper part, then the more expensive part)

A pistol which does not have proper engagement has already defeated two (2) of the three safeties (trigger & drop) the remaining safety is the firing pin safety.
 
IIRC, some of the G19 needed a trigger bar with a "+" because the frames were a few thousands of a mm off. Ran into it 2x in the past 15 years. YMMV

Tom
 
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