Nice, I did mine for my right hand only with the reasoning to get as deep a grind as I can for the most comfort to my dominant hand. If I did both sides this deep I might feel I weakened the plastic but IDK.

 

I did a double undercut on the 43...with a Dremel. I'll do the 19 next.

 

I did a double undercut on the 43...with a Dremel. I'll do the 19 next.

I suppose the type of undercut (shown in 2nd and 3rd images) could work for some, but I prefer a contoured and rounded undercut rather than a sharp edged one. As you can see in the first photo, my 2nd finger is not perpendicular to the handle but is angled upward as it aids me getting as high on the pistol as possible. The contour, not being sharp edged, allows some additional leverage as well, as I can better rotate my hands in on both sides of the pistol for a more secure overall grip. Even though my 43x is a small pistol I don't feel that I have to have a death grip to be able to hold it securely.

Perhaps on a large Glock as shown in 2nd and 3rd images the undercut might be high enough to allow maximum grip height.
Edit: P.S.... The first image is listed by the software as "sensitive content" and needs to be clicked on to be viewed. This I don't understand as it is difficult to make out what it is except a bunch of fingers holding onto a non-descript object. What do you think happened (mods?)???

View attachment 1003863

]

 

After two solid months of 45 minutes daily Dry Practice starting in September, I have developed a pretty significant callous on the inside of my shooting hand index finger. It's EXACTLY in this area where it meets the trigger guard on my G34.5. I've seen these kinds of "cuts" on custom guns, but have never addressed the issue on mine. Might give this a try. Thanks.

 

I always take a dremel tool to my Glock trigger guards - other wise i suffer from the dreaded Glock knuckle. Makes it a sight more comfortable to shoot!

 

When I had the grip reduction done on my 26.3, Bowie Tactical suggested the trigger guard work too. It really does make a difference.

 

Perfecting perfection is an exemplification of supreme excellence.

 

I consider Glock knuckle to be a badge of honor.

 

What size grit do you use if hand sanding? I’m a new G21 owner and got nasty Glock knuckle at the range.

 

I did my full size Glocks with 80 grit to start and when I got the shape I wanted, I went to 400 just to trim enough so the deep cuts were nearly gone. I've got skateboard tape all over my grips so I don't care if the scratches aren't gone, completely. I just care that the shape of the contour is there. You can go from 80 to 120 just before you get the contour like you like and get all the scratches with 400. It's one more step but it looks a little better.

 

You guys do know that Glock knuckle comes from gripping like a pansy? Control the gun and it won’t rub the knuckle - especially a 9mm!!!!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[emoji33]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I've never experienced "Glock knuckle". I am a knucklehead, however.

 

You are lucky. It is like a hard goiter on the side of your finger. It can be quite unsightly and feels very weird.

 

By increasing the "undercut" on my Gen 4 G21 I was able to alter my grip so that my trigger finger no longer rubs against the inside of the trigger guard.

 

Like many others you've found a benefit to this modification. What I don't understand is why, after all the generations of Glocks, Glock didn't modify their molds providing undercuts right out of the factory?

Edit: There are so many small changes that Glock could have done along the way these last 30+ years in additional to minor ergonomic modifications beyone finger grooves or lack thereof. One would be their trigger shoe a second would be metal sights. But why add a few $ to the COG when they can put Crocodile Dundee parts in for pennies and still sell as many guns for good money?

 

Some folks increase the undercut on 1911s to allow a higher grip..................

 

I admit I did not read the whole thread but I smoothed out the "dip" in the trigger guard on my G17.5 with a Dremel and it made a HUGE difference! I'll probably do it to my G43 but truth is I shoot the 17 in competition and the 43 is just EDC so I only shoot it for proficiency. I see it as an advantage that the Glock lower is polymer and can be personalized. YMMV.

 

It doesn't take much to give a much better feel and eliminate all the knuckle discomfort.

Then making look like it was factory....

TXPO

 

It doesn't take much to give a much better feel and eliminate all the knuckle discomfort.

Then making look like it was factory....

TXPO

Did you put the texture back in the plastic somehow?

 

Been shooting Glocks for several decades, including carrying them on and off duty for decades. Never knew 'Glock knuckle' was a thing until I read it on GT. Never bothered me. But then, I never knew Glocks had lousy, gritty, heavy triggers till I read it on GT either....

 

Awareness and sensitivity levels from person to person is a very interesting thing. Without getting into it, there is an interesting phenomenon known as "neuro-sensory adaptation". A good illustration of that might be that you don't smell the dog pee in your own house from your own dog because your olfactory sensor gets so used to it that you have become desensitized to it, but you might smell it instantly in someone else's house. Touch, smell, taste, light/dark color, sound...all the senses are affected. In other words, you get used to what you get used to. There are so many examples that are parallel to firearms.

 

We often use these. No grinding or tape required.
Atlas (Showa) #370
Thin, super grippy.

Buy on line or from a (real) construction supply store (not Home Depot).
Sometimes a farm supply store will have them.

 

True. I just can't recall ever being bothered by the trigger guard of a Glock, or any other pistol for that matter. Some folks get a blister on their finger from the dingus on a Glock trigger, but I haven't.

 

I had a HUGE hard knot on my 2nd finger. You've suggested hard training multiple times throughout several threatds. That's what caused it. Lots of shooting and dry fire. It took me months just to decide to modify the frame and I didn't want to go crazy. It's not like dropping in a new trigger and I'm not one to modify stuff permanently without a damned good reason. But the subtle contouring is just what I needed for MY hands on my pistol. The reason I started the thread was to as a realization that while the initial motivation was comfort (and pain relief) the grand bonus was that I am able to grip the pistol higher to the bore axis now that I can move my hand up on the grip, not being blocked by an unmodified trigger guard.

BTW... You should see what it's like to get ski boots to fit properly because in skiing YOU are the projectile and anything less than perfection can get you in trouble... or killed.

 

Confucius says, "Shoot more handle less".

 

Three pages on this thread, and I can't believe I'm the first to point out the irony of modifying a factory Glock frame (under the trigger guard) to mimic...
....

the pariah of the GT community.....

A P80 trigger guard undercut!

I guess my hands aren't big enough to suffer Glock Knuckle (I've got three factory Glocks). I had not heard of it until this thread. Googled it to get more info.

But, yeah... kinda funny, given the attitude (of many but not everyone) towards P80s and factory Glock mods on this forum.

Having some experience carving and polishing plastic (2 P80 frames, so far), my advice is to GO SLOWLY. Use a LIGHT touch. Keep the rotary tool moving. Don't dwell in one place and use light pressure... to avoid heating and melting the plastic or gouging it.

Slow. Very light pressure. Keep moving.

 

I've always used a fine, rat tailed file for "whittling" on polymer,
and finished the job with sandpaper, which makes it (virtually)
impossible to make a bad mistake (like with a Dremel).

I did that to remove the "finger groove" on my Milspec LR-308
(top rifle) grip, with excellent results.

 

I Think what some folks miss is that some have tough hands from working hard & others have soft non callused hands from doing something else
I was a maintenance tech & mechanic & my hand are tough & never experienced the Glock Knuckle on Gen 2 3 4 or 5 Glocks
Now that I'm retired I still do enough rough work in my wood shop etc that my hand are still tough
I do have a lump on the lower part of my RH trigger finger that I attribute to 2-3 million trigger pulls from hundreds of different weapons, Could be Arthritis , It is hard as a rock though
Always thought when I saw a gun sculpted around the trigger guard that was to allow the hand to grasp higher up on the weapon or to increase griping area
Never thought about it rubbing some folks raw or causing a problem

 

I Think what some folks miss is that some have tough hands from working hard & others have soft non callused hands from doing something else
I was a maintenance tech & mechanic & my hand are tough & never experienced the Glock Knuckle on Gen 2 3 4 or 5 Glocks
Now that I'm retired I still do enough rough work in my wood shop etc that my hand are still tough
I do have a lump on the lower part of my RH trigger finger that I attribute to 2-3 million trigger pulls from hundreds of different weapons, Could be Arthritis , It is hard as a rock though
Always thought when I saw a gun sculpted around the trigger guard that was to allow the hand to grasp higher up on the weapon or to increase griping area
Never thought about it rubbing some folks raw or causing a problem

That makes a lot of sense. I can fully understand thru personal experience. I have played guitar and bass for several years. Interestingly my left hand, while initially had become calloused now has no callouses but greatly desensitized to feel of the strings, even playing 2-3 hours straight, which would send new players yelping in pain. My right hand, should it have to do what the left hand does would suffer greatly . However, my "Glock knuckle" was really nasty and the pain never went away, though a hard, 3/16" welt on the side of my finger developed. I resisted doing any frame modifications for quite some time, but my friend did a similar thing on his 43x and it felt so much better and after a few days I decided to take a shot at it.

But as I alluded to in the title, having a contoured (not straight) undercut allows me to get a higher grip on the pistol. I'm not sure how much more control it gives me, but combined with other things the recoil and muzzle flip is minimal and return to target faster than before, for sure.

 

Smoothing out the undercut on my g17.5 made a huge difference. Before; sore 2nd finger knuckle; now; don’t even think about it. I don’t generally by things for resale so tweaking them not an issue for me.

 

How😳

 

I do mine with a sharpie wrapped with sandpaper. Start with a rougher grit then work down to the fine stuff. Finish it off with a green Scotch Brite pad.

 

Yes, obviously fitting the frame to your hands can make a large difference in performance. It has nothing to do with how tough you are. The ability to use a tool well is about being sensitive (as in, able to perceive what is going on, not fragile).

Moving your grip up closer to the bore axis is a big advantage in/of itself.

The way I look at this, there are 2 cuts: One is concave, and the other is convex. The concave cut allows your grip to move up and shapes the underside of the guard to better accept your finger. The convex cut radiuses the edges of the guard for comfort and allows your knuckle to intrude at the outboard side of the frame.

I do mine symmetrically, because the shape is roughly equally useful shooting weak-hand, and my index is pretty similar from side to side.

This is a great example of an easy mod that makes a huge positive change with no downside.