Just get the sawhorse looking ones that use a 2x4 crossbeam. Lighter, modular and easy to replace the beam as it wears. Plenty of target hanging options too.

 

Understand that the stand, much more so than the target itself is a consumable item, especially if there are going to be multiple users....

I use a combination of steel t-posts that either use a hook the fits the profile of the post and that the target hangs from, at a slight downward angle, with some give to the target, OR,t-posts with a hole burned at the top that is used to pass a bolt through the target and the post, with a spring and slack on the bolt (allowing the slight downward angle and some give); both of those mounts require that the post be driven into the ground or slipped into an existing socket (at my range I have a few sections of PVC in the ground that the posts are placed into) ....I also use an "H" pattern stand made using a base made on steel angle (I use scavenged be frames ) welded into an "H", with an upright made of square tubing that is welded to the center bar of the "H" with a hole in the top for mounting the target using the bolt and spring (again, for the slight downward angle and some give)....

The t-posts are cheap and hold up well, and pack well; the "H" stand is also cheap if you can get the materials, and can be fairly portable (even more so if you use a short piece of oversized tubing as a "socket" for the upright piece)....

Hope this helps!

 

I just mostly hang steel plates on steel fence posts.

 

I use t-posts for mine as well. The t-posts are cheap and easy to replace.

 

I built this according to a youtuber’s instructions. It’s probably not the cheapest route. I think i have $75 in everything including the 3/8” thick AR500 8” plate. It was for a gift so the cost didn’t bother me. Wouldn’t feel right gifting something that cost me nothing. The plate was $20 free ship on Etsy; great buy imho.

After the photo I switched out the clevises with S-hooks.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Depending on weight of target, either 1/2 or 3/4 conduit. Cut your verticals to desired height, use a pipe bender to bend 90’s on each end of the crossbar section, use a dia larger so it slides over the verticals. I use a hand sledge to drive my verticals into the ground.

I’ll take a pic later of several I’ve made.

 

All of these were gifts from people I let shoot at my range. The silhouette with the red heart on the right is my favorite. If I hit the red circle with a hot 10mm it flips up so hard that it sticks in place. I then need to hit the target again to make it fall back down. .40 caliber will make disappear for a second but it falls back down. 9mm moves it back so you know it was hit. I don't know how that relates to hitting a living target if at all, but shooting at steel targets makes me makes me prefer to CC big powerful bullets. Anything can punch a hole in paper. The small shooting tree on the left is for .22s. I have fired a PS-90 at this range it is fun to fire because it's hard to miss, but only the tiny .22 targets really flip. Mass matters when shooting at steel.

 

I built this out of scrap lumber I had on hand. I built it with intent of a rimfire or pistol target only because of its location, we don’t have room to stretch out enough distance to shoot it with AR type rifles.

 

Made this a couple of weeks ago.
The leg brackets cost about $16, wood had on hand.
Needed mine to be portable, and to fit in the back of my Mustang.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fulton-890...705052687?epid=2255175249&hash=item2139e24c0f:g:DyAAAOSwgqlaldxr&frcectupt=true

 

Wood is the cheapest, but I built two out of black iron pipe like the one posted above. I think it cost me about $50 per stand. Just need 4 lengths for the legs, 1 length for the cross piece, 2 tees and 2 street elbows.

 

awesome ! Keep the ideas coming !

 

If you have to have a clean take-down design (read temporary set-up), take a look at this design. It's all about the end frames.
It uses 1" EMT (electrical conduit) for the legs and a 2x4 (on edge) top rail.
You buy (2) 10' sticks of 1" EMT and cut them in half for the legs.

You then chain and bolt your steel plates to the 2x4.
I use wing nuts for an easy takedown.
You can also screw a piece of 1x6 (flat) on top of the 2x4 for a shelf for 2 liters, bowling pins, etc.

https://www.shootsteel.com/products/2x4-hybrid-stand

This is their plate rack which is very cool as well, and it uses the same end frames described above.

The above pic shows their old style end frame.
I designed and had made locally the same thing.
Now, you'll get the new style which is shown in the first pic.
The best EMT end frame in the biz.

ETA:
If you try to go skinnier than 1" EMT it gets wobbly.
1" is the sweet spot for strength and weight.

 

I know you don't want welded stuff, but I couldn't help myself. I just finished this Monday. I don't have a good back stop so I made it low to shoot down to.

 

To reduce the possibility of lead bouncing back and injuring someone, I hung my gongs so that they hang at an angle. The lead then is deflected back towards the ground. This is not noticeable when viewed from the distance I'm shooting but makes it safer.

I discovered that lead explodes when it hits a steel target and sprays out from the target at a right angle from the incoming bullets. This results in bits of lead striking the wood supporting posts, chewing them up. To prolong the life of the wooden poles I attached lengths of angle iron to the wood posts.