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TTM65

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
First understand that I am an FFL 07 / SOT so do not try this at home please. THis is an open bolt mod that we did to the ruger 10/22, it is firing in the neighborhood of 1150 RPM. THe mags are ruger 25 rounders and they empty fast. If you let the trigger go it will stop firing though. The best I could do though is 4 rounds per squeeze of the trigger.
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yYgcl4u3EQA"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yYgcl4u3EQA[/ame]
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wkzi0sEHgOU"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wkzi0sEHgOU[/ame]
 
Sure about the legality of this, I'm assuming....

Because it seems like you've created a full auto. Unless there is some technical glitch like the Slide Fire Stock provides, that has the trigger still being actuated somehow, then you likely just commited (and openly posted about) a felony.

:popcorn:
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
The first line of my original post is First understand that I am an FFL 07 / SOT That means I am a manufacturer of firearms and have a tax stamp to produce weapons such as this in my shop. That is why it was the first line of the post as I do not want others to try this without proper licensing. I was talking to another member here and he asked that I post a video of this when it was complete.
 
Thanks for the video.
 
This is unreasonably simple, right?

Just weld the firing pin and gut the trigger pack, put a hook that catches the bolt and is actuated by the trigger?
I think it's a little bit more complicated than that, depending on the method he is using to convert the weapon (I have not yet watched the video). Back in the early 80's, when any citizen could legally convert semi-auto guns to full-auto (with the proper paperwork and living in a state that allowed it, of course), I had looked into converting a 10/22 and the methods that are used to do so.

If you weld a top-of-the-bolt firing pin in the forward position, it will sometimes snag the rim during feeding and cause stoppages. If you set up a secondary sear to release the hammer when the bolt closes, using the normal floating firing pin, you can get misfires due to bolt bounce after closing (hammer falls in the middle of the bounce, and fails to crush the rim enough to set-off the cartridge). The best open-bolt conversions (that I was familiar with back then) used a full-height-of-the-breechface (top-to-bottom) firing pin, which allowed for smoother feeding and increased ignition reliability by crushing the rim in two different places, 180 degrees apart.

I often kick myself for not completing a few 10/22 conversions back in the medium-good-old-days. I've fired several legal full-auto .22s over the last 30 years; they are the closest thing to a "bullet hose" that I've ever fired, and cheap to feed, too. It's almost impossible to not smile when squirting quick bursts at targets that react when hit. Too fun!
 
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