I have been having quite a few off center primer strikes with my Gen 3 Glock 26. Usually at least 5 per 100 rounds. Anyone have a solution to this problem? I cleaned the gun today and decided to take out the striker assembly and plunger rod. Cleaned both channels. They were full of gunk. Is that normal? Didn't think that Glocks needed those areas cleaned.
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kingq
Some things to check:
From Glock Armorer's Manual:
Observed Problem: Light Off-Center Strike
Probable Causes:
- Weak recoil spring
- Dirty gun
- Tight extractor
- Slide lock reversed or not beveled
Be careful with oil (lubricant) around the firing pin channel etc. No oil needed there.
Thank you for the response. The recoil spring is two months old and Glock factory weight and spec. Other than the striker assembly channel and plunger rod channel being very dirty, the rest of the gun is clean. I clean it after every 500 rounds. Slide lock appears fine. Might be a tight extractor. May need to get an aftermarket one that is not a MIM part.
ActanonVerba7 gave you good suggestions to check. Carbon residue can build up in the firing pin channel over time and if you get lubricant in the channel it attracts the carbon which can lead to light strikes and other malfunctions.
Over the course of several hundred thousand rounds through multiple GLOCKs, I’ve only needed to replace one extractor. I wouldn’t change your extractor to an aftermarket part, as the OEM parts are quite durable and work well.
Over the course of several hundred thousand rounds through multiple GLOCKs, I’ve only needed to replace one extractor. I wouldn’t change your extractor to an aftermarket part, as the OEM parts are quite durable and work well.
OP: Are you sure that the strikes are actually off center? Reason I ask is that Glock firing pins leave a unique primer marking. It is an elongated 'scrape' or drag mark starting at the initial striking point and then moving 'up'. I don't have any fired cases with primers still in them or I'd show it.
You might want to post pics of the off-center stirkes and some 'normal' ones for us to compare.
Only lube I put in firing pin channel is a lube that dries to a dry film: Hornady OneShot Gun Cleaner and Lube. Won't attract dirt and is very slippery.
FYI: I have non-Glock guns that have off-center primer strikes. But they are consistently off-center. I've never had a failure to fire in any of these guns (2 P95 Ruger pistols are really off-center).
The only thing about your off-center strike situation is the inconsistency of it. Something might be oversized (like firing pin breech face hole) that might be causing it. If it bugs you even though every round consistently fires, take pics and contact Glock.
You might want to post pics of the off-center stirkes and some 'normal' ones for us to compare.
Only lube I put in firing pin channel is a lube that dries to a dry film: Hornady OneShot Gun Cleaner and Lube. Won't attract dirt and is very slippery.
FYI: I have non-Glock guns that have off-center primer strikes. But they are consistently off-center. I've never had a failure to fire in any of these guns (2 P95 Ruger pistols are really off-center).
The only thing about your off-center strike situation is the inconsistency of it. Something might be oversized (like firing pin breech face hole) that might be causing it. If it bugs you even though every round consistently fires, take pics and contact Glock.
I keep a package of bamboo skewers in my tool box. They look like giant tooth picks and you can find them at nearly every grocery store. From time to time I strip the slide. When I remove the firing pin, I run the length of the channel with bamboo skewer that’s been square cut. If there‘s any buildup of carbon or crud, you’ll feel it. If you do, continue scraping the crud out and rinse the channel with a blast aerosol gun cleaner to flush out any dirt. I use the pointed end of these skewers to remove crud that builds up in tight corners. Been using these bamboo skewers for years with good results.
Unlike metal tools, bamboo won’t gouge steel and it does an excellent job for detailing your firearm. Just make sure you don’t leave any strands of the bamboo in your firearm.
If I had to guess, you may have some buildup in the firing pin channel or something is out of spec with the firing pin assembly. Look for any worn parts that won’t center the firing pin. Once everything is clean, use a very light coating of quality gun lubricant. Excessive oil can promote fouling. Button up your gun after careful inspection and run a few mags through your gun. Inspect the spent shells and see if your problem is resolved.
Good luck my friend, let us know what you find.
Unlike metal tools, bamboo won’t gouge steel and it does an excellent job for detailing your firearm. Just make sure you don’t leave any strands of the bamboo in your firearm.
If I had to guess, you may have some buildup in the firing pin channel or something is out of spec with the firing pin assembly. Look for any worn parts that won’t center the firing pin. Once everything is clean, use a very light coating of quality gun lubricant. Excessive oil can promote fouling. Button up your gun after careful inspection and run a few mags through your gun. Inspect the spent shells and see if your problem is resolved.
Good luck my friend, let us know what you find.
Yep, that's pretty normal.
(I mean the gunk in there.)
Firing pin channel, firing pin safety socket, and extractor slot are the areas inside the slide that can get very dirty with carbon residue and tiny shreds of brass/copper, etc. after firing only a couple thousand rounds, especially if you shoot cheap ammo like do. Having gunk built up in any of those areas can contribute to Failure-To-Ignite....
Breech face and under the extractor claw also need to be cleaned periodically. I use the smaller end of a double-ended gun cleaning brush with bronze brittles to clean the area.
When you clean the firing pin channel, also inspect the firing pin assembly and make sure the spring cups are placed correctly, so the end of spring coil is NOT in the gap between the two cups. Otherwise, it will likely cause occasional light primer strikes even if the gun is very clean.
(I mean the gunk in there.)Firing pin channel, firing pin safety socket, and extractor slot are the areas inside the slide that can get very dirty with carbon residue and tiny shreds of brass/copper, etc. after firing only a couple thousand rounds, especially if you shoot cheap ammo like do.
Having gunk built up in any of those areas can contribute to Failure-To-Ignite....Breech face and under the extractor claw also need to be cleaned periodically. I use the smaller end of a double-ended gun cleaning brush with bronze brittles to clean the area.
When you clean the firing pin channel, also inspect the firing pin assembly and make sure the spring cups are placed correctly, so the end of spring coil is NOT in the gap between the two cups. Otherwise, it will likely cause occasional light primer strikes even if the gun is very clean.
I think the range armorer was telling you that just to prove he did something. If you already cleaned it, I don't believe him.
This could be a AMMO problem (hard primers), and not a gun problem, and you are misled by the primer strike pattern. The striker tip strike should be rectangular, not pinpoint in your pics.
I would suggest not using that type of ammo. If you can't avoid using that ammo, put in an extra power striker spring. Stock is 5 pounds; they make 6 and 6.5 pound striker springs that will increase the striker energy.
This could be a AMMO problem (hard primers), and not a gun problem, and you are misled by the primer strike pattern. The striker tip strike should be rectangular, not pinpoint in your pics.
I would suggest not using that type of ammo. If you can't avoid using that ammo, put in an extra power striker spring. Stock is 5 pounds; they make 6 and 6.5 pound striker springs that will increase the striker energy.
After looking at your spent shells, l would suggest contacting Glock and make arrangements to have your pistol inspected.
I’m going off my memory and those primer strikes don’t look like it even came from a Glock.
Like cciman noted, those primer strikes should be rectangular and not pin point.
Anyone have a spent shell from a Glock available to post for comparison?
I’m going off my memory and those primer strikes don’t look like it even came from a Glock.
Like cciman noted, those primer strikes should be rectangular and not pin point.
Anyone have a spent shell from a Glock available to post for comparison?
OP post #13: That pic shows really off center hits and if it's causing failure to fire, then it needs to be fixed. Your country's rules might make it tough to send to Glock. But if you can contact Glock and they are willing to replace the slide, your country might allow a replacement slide to be shipped.
Sounds like Certified Glock Armorer @GlockyQ is your most certified resource here.
@Danke Glock : that's an interesting fact about Gen 5 rounded tip as the distinctive rectangular shape is the only one I've ever seen on any of my old Gen3 Glock-fired primers.
Sounds like Certified Glock Armorer @GlockyQ is your most certified resource here.
@Danke Glock : that's an interesting fact about Gen 5 rounded tip as the distinctive rectangular shape is the only one I've ever seen on any of my old Gen3 Glock-fired primers.
OP's Glock is Gen. 3 G26. I also own a Gen.3 G26 (i.e., old production original Gen. 3 model), and it has the factory stock Part #49 firing pin (and the factory firing pin spring). Its primer indentation is more like a rectangular shape with a dot inside as pointed out by other members. If everything in OP's G26 is factory stock part, it should not have strange "un-Glock-like" primer indentations as pictured in Post #13....
That sure looks like the rectangular firing pin I and others have mentioned, making those primer strike shapes really, really weird.
The spring cups look at least oriented right (not reversed or anything). Can't tell if anything in the firing pin assembly looks weird. Resident armorers could probably tell.
But the spring cups ARE a pain for fat fingers to install. Here's a discussion with a video in post #3 showing a nice trick to make it easier:
www.glocktalk.com
The spring cups look at least oriented right (not reversed or anything). Can't tell if anything in the firing pin assembly looks weird. Resident armorers could probably tell.
But the spring cups ARE a pain for fat fingers to install. Here's a discussion with a video in post #3 showing a nice trick to make it easier:
Advice on installing firing pin spring cups assembly?
Are there any tips on making the process of installing the firing pin with spring and spring cups easier? I have big fingers, and every time i attempt installing the spring cups.. one doesn't get all the way on because all my other fingers are acupied holding everything in place. Then the...
www.glocktalk.com
The spring cups look seated to me. And the striker assembly looks correct.
The images of the casings would indicate to me that the primers are too hard for your gun. It's not hitting hard enough to create a rectangular dimple. It's not a gun problem per se, but a ammo problem.
As I suggested earlier, try a heavier striker spring.
The images of the casings would indicate to me that the primers are too hard for your gun. It's not hitting hard enough to create a rectangular dimple. It's not a gun problem per se, but a ammo problem.
As I suggested earlier, try a heavier striker spring.
@cciman : I will be interested to see if that solves his light primer strikes. Then he won't have to worry about the off-center strikes, which is still weird.
If that is 'Eastern' ammo he is forced to use, I've heard that some foreign ammo has harder primers. For sure 762x39 ammo (to prevent slam fires), but maybe handgun ammo as well. Given that OP is forced to use range ammo, unless they have other brands or other alternate ammo loadings, then your suggestion on the stronger firing pin spring may be his only option.
Question: with heavier firing pin spring, will he have to make other changes? Like to the disconnector?
If that is 'Eastern' ammo he is forced to use, I've heard that some foreign ammo has harder primers. For sure 762x39 ammo (to prevent slam fires), but maybe handgun ammo as well. Given that OP is forced to use range ammo, unless they have other brands or other alternate ammo loadings, then your suggestion on the stronger firing pin spring may be his only option.
Question: with heavier firing pin spring, will he have to make other changes? Like to the disconnector?
No other changes needed with a heavier striker spring. You (OP) may notice a difference in the trigger feel being a touch heavier using a heavier striker spring.
My theory: Off center strike dimples on primer may be a symptom, not necessarily a cause (since we won't usually look at the ones that go off to know what percentage the dimple is off center yet still fires).
The only other way to get more kinetic energy into the striker is to use a lightweight striker to increase velocity (the loss of mass will be overcome by the increase in the velocity). KE=1/2m ( v v )
My theory: Off center strike dimples on primer may be a symptom, not necessarily a cause (since we won't usually look at the ones that go off to know what percentage the dimple is off center yet still fires).
The only other way to get more kinetic energy into the striker is to use a lightweight striker to increase velocity (the loss of mass will be overcome by the increase in the velocity). KE=1/2m ( v v )
Wolff extra power spring on order. Will try that when it arrives. Last range trip I managed to sneak in 5 rounds of 124gr ball ammo. Small sample size and no light or off center primer strikes. It's difficult because there are usually 3 - 5 range attendants huddled around the shooting bay reloading mags etc. so they can get a tip.
I'm sure they are selling you crappy reloads, and you get to buy more if it fails. Don't trust their gunsmith either.
Logic algorithm? Plunk testing checks the ammo used in the gun being fired, unlike case gaging, which checks ammo against SAAMI specs. The loaded round should drop freely into the barrel, and spin freely. In a conversion barrel, unlike an OEM barrel, ammo is more critical. Loads generally need to be hotter because of the added barrel weight so any ammo hang-up just causes more problems. Ammo is the first thing that should be checked with malfunctions. Although 3.2 grs of TG is far too soft for a 124 gr bullet (and OAL was not specified) and most likely the cause. Also the wrong grip can induce the same malfunction.
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