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Nemesis.

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I have a Dillon Square Deal I use for straight wall calibers. I want to lubricate it and the instructions are on a Dillon Video.
View: https://youtu.be/fwckkpPONrs


First thing it says is "Do not use WD40 or light oils anywhere on this machine." I have a tube of Valvoline All Purpose Grease, a couple tubes of Tetra Gun Grease, 3 in 1 oil and Hoppes Gun Oil.

I'm assuming the 3 in 1 and the Hoppes are "light" oil? And I elsewhere read that the Valvoline is sticky and would capture powder flakes and residue and would then act as grit on the moving parts.

I also read of reloaders using motor oil. 20W single-viscosity non-detergent.

The grease in the Dillon video is blue so, maybe they sell it? But they, like pretty much everybody else, stopped answering the phone.

What say ye?
 
Ballistol on the ram. YMMV. tom. :cowboy:
 
Using any type of oil is a huge mistake, what you want is mold release agent which is a Teflon spray.
 
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This is a copy and paste from a thread I started a couple years ago. Not exactly relevant to this thread but something any SDB owner should check.



My SDB was feeling real stiff the last couple of times I used it so I decided it was time to yank it apart for a good cleaning. Well I determined the stiffness was coming from the pivot point at the bottom of the handle. After removing the set screw I tapped on the pin with a hammer and dowel. It didn't want to move and I wasn't sure if it was pressed in or not.

It finally came out with several good hits and it was quite apparent why the press wasn't cycling smoothly. There was a good amount of galling on the pin and frame holes. I polished the holes with a drill bit wrapped with scotch brite and the pin with my die grinder and a buffing pad. After giving the pin a good coating of slide glide I put it back together and it works 100% better. I know Dillon says their presses don't require any lubrication but this is one area that requires some attention.
 
I
First thing it says is "Do not use WD40 or light oils anywhere on this machine." ?
You don’t want anything that drys like WD-40.
A few years ago the local newspaper ran an article about WD-40. It's not really a lubricant according to the article. WD stands for Water Displacement. It was intended to chase water away, it's not a lubricant. When I worked in the machine shop at my college I had to clean a whole bunch of instruments and things because they had been 'lubricated' with WD-40. The stuff dries out and leaves a gummy residue behind.
 
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Discussion starter · #12 ·
I know Dillon says their presses don't require any lubrication but this is one area that requires some attention.
Apparently they've amended that philosophy because they have videos on their website both for cleaning and lubricating the Square Deal. Hence, this thread. They say to use grease. They show grease. They say avoid WD40 and any light oil anywhere on the press. But they don't specify what type of grease to use.

Oh, and in the lubrication video, they address greasing that pin to which you refer.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
It's not really a lubricant according to the article. WD stands for Water Displacement. It was intended to chase water away, it's not a lubricant.
I thought everybody knew that. WD40 stands for "Water Displacement (formula) 40." Or, so we were told back in the day.
 
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I thought everybody knew that. WD40 stands for "Water Displacement (formula) 40." Or, so we were told back in the day.
I'm regularly surprised by the number of people that don't know this. In fact I saw someone use it to lubricate a squeaky hinge just a couple weeks ago. Happened so fast I couldn't stop them.
 
If it comes out of a spray can or spray bottle do not use By Dillon instructions. And personal experience. I use Mobil one motor oil mixed with some Lucas oil treatment ,for the ram. For grease I use GM synthetic. You want a grease that is not thick so it migrates better. For the powder measure I use powdered graphite. Use the wrong products and you will be asking Dillon for replacement parts. Like Link pins and link arms and bell crank and pin..
 
My instructions say to use plain Jane SAE30 weight (read not 5W/10W stuff with detergents and additives, as they sometimes dry out and become sticky/sludgy).

I'm running with 30W. Dillon said in their forums that they use whatever 30W is on sale. :)

For grease, they moved to Shaeffer "229 Ultra Red Supreme" NGLI#1...but said most any wheel bearing grease works fine...guess NGLI#1 is a little thinner than #2, so like UncleBob said...thicker isn't better in this case.

I wondered about Hoppes, too...but opted to use Mobil 1 synthetic until I got some plain 30 weight. I can't see Hoppes being an issue, but I am new and don't know anything, so opted to follow the directions for once in my life. lol
 
My instructions say to use plain Jane SAE30 weight (read not 5W/10W stuff with detergents and additives, as they sometimes dry out and become sticky/sludgy).

I'm running with 30W. Dillon said in their forums that they use whatever 30W is on sale. :)

For grease, they moved to Shaeffer "229 Ultra Red Supreme" NGLI#1...but said most any wheel bearing grease works fine...guess NGLI#1 is a little thinner than #2, so like UncleBob said...thicker isn't better in this case.

I wondered about Hoppes, too...but opted to use Mobil 1 synthetic until I got some plain 30 weight. I can't see Hoppes being an issue, but I am new and don't know anything, so opted to follow the directions for once in my life. lol
Reread page 52 of the instruction manual on what to use.
 
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