Glock Talk banner
  • Notice image

    Glocktalk is a forum community dedicated to Glock enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about Glock pistols and rifles, optics, hunting, gunsmithing, styles, reviews, accessories, and more!

41 - 60 of 61 Posts
Discussion starter · #42 ·
Mine were all changed with the Mcarbo screws that came with my trigger kit. Their screws are not a big improvement, but the grip pins are. Theirs are steel vs the aluminum that come in the sub and have a tendency to strip out.


Sent from my iPhone using Glock Talk mobile app
It looks pretty involved just to change those grip pins, No?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
 
Yes, it has to all come apart. Its another worthy upgrade, and with it that far apart, you might as well upgrade all the internals while your there. Some say its daunting, I found it pretty easy actually, but I work on all my firearms. Took me about 45 min, and I went slow to make sure everything was perfect.


Sent from my iPhone using Glock Talk mobile app
 
Discussion starter · #45 ·
I know that the handguard top rail is polymer.

I tried an inexpensive 30 degree angled rail mount but it barely does not allow full closure of the Keltec Sub 2000 (Sub 2K) with a Red Dot Sight.

I am aware of a swivel mount but I have read discouraging remarks on effectiveness. I know that Mcarbo has one in the works, and I would love to read feedback when it is put into practice.

Therefore, I decided to try an alternative option in the meantime.

I wanted to take advantage of the M-Lok slots by mounting rails on the side of the handguard. I mounted the Red Dot into the M-Lok rail with the angled mount. Now, one thing I don’t know is how feasible achieving zero will be with this set up will be. But for $15, I am willing to try it.
Image
Image


Now I tried a vertical forehand grip but it felt bulky so I opted for an angled version. This took away my option for a light, therefore I used the other side and used an M-Lok mount.

Sure it looks bulky and I also question the reliability and cycling, but being a blow back design, I’m less concerned.

Image
Image


It does close, and the perceived weight is minimal.

Image
Image


I’ll shoot in the backyard of my property and see how it goes after achieving/attempting to zero it.
 
I don't use a sling with mine ... When I do put a sling on a rifle, I prefer a two point. One point slings swing around too much for me.
I agree, 2-point makes much more sense both tactically and for survival mode.
 
Mine is a .40. Originally started out adding a MCarbo charging handle, tube cover, butt plate and sight. No problem and should have stopped there. Got the full MCarbo upgrade kit, basically doubling the cost of the gun. Could not get the hammer spring to stay in place, so had to send it to MCarbo to fix it. It now works fine if I stick to Glock 15 round magazines; will not work with the 22 rounders as they droop a bit and cause nasty jams. Ended up installing a red/green dot sight, so the MCarbo sight stays folded down. Just keep the gun in a regular case and don't bother folding it.

My advice is to stop the upgrades after the handle, cover and butt or have either MCarbo or KelTec install the innards. Knowing what I currently have is the only noticeable improvement with all the internal parts is a much nicer trigger. Not sure if is worth what I spent. Also, the extended mag release that came with the kit is too easy to accidently push causing a mag drop. If I ever have to open it up again, would replace it with the original.

I use the gun in monthly indoor ASI carbine matches and do OK with it. Will probably use it in steel challenge outdoor matches starting in the spring.
 
I did something similar...30 degree offset with Primary Arms Microdot and M Carbo aluminum rear.
Question! It seems to me that as the barrel heats up, my impacts drift down and to the right. I first noticed this when, after I zeroing a cold barrel, I ran a long stick 33 rd mag through it as fast as I acquired the target. It appeared as though the holes walked down, to the right, outside the 8 ring (9mm). 50 yds Same thing today after the standard short mag that came with the gun as it warmed up.
Point of aim always the same. You ever notice this "barrel whip"?
 
I have a G19 Sub 2K coming this week. Been thinking about the trigger upgrade but definitely doing the buffer pad, buffer tube cover, and some sort of buffer handle mod. Thinking about optics and the KTOG folks have me leaning towards a QD riser. The riser is a small fraction of even the MI flip mount so I figure I’ll give it a try before dropping a Benjamin or more on a flip mount.
 
I had a both the Gen 1 and the Gen 2, much preferred the Gen 2.

my fix for the sights on the Gen 2 was to remove the front post, hold it up side down and dip the end in red nail polish several time, just deep enough to to build up a red bead on the end of the sight post, made it very easy to see.

for the rear sight, I epoxied the sight hole closed and milled a .150" round notch in the top, about .200" deep, this moved the rear notch up but was at the minimum height for eye alignment.

the only other mods I did was a trigger shoe and the tube pad.
 
Gen 2 glock .40 here. Only add on was sight paint. I had a forward grip, but it off as it was too long. Id say same length as the one on pages 2. I do like those blitzkrieg front sight pins
 
After reading all the criticism of the trigger, I was pleasantly surprised by the action on my Sub 2K G19. I'm not champion marksman but I'm bothered more by the length of the grip than the action of the trigger.

Mods I decided on without firing:
  • Bolt tube cover
  • Butt pad
  • Buffer pad
  • Charging handle cover
I also got a Sightmark reflex sight and MCARBO folding sight because I plan to co-witness the sights and the rear sight would be a pain.
 
41 - 60 of 61 Posts