[19+15+1]

I've owned several Glocks over the past 20-some years and have never removed copper from my barrels. It just hasn't seemed necessary. Am I wrong? I'd love a definitive answer on the issue of copper and Glocks barrels.

 

[fg17]

I could be wrong but I don't worry to much about copper in my handguns. One year I was shooting in a local fun bulls eye league. I used one of the foam cleaners that removes copper on my S&W 686. I placed 1st that year, and was competing against people using very expensive 1911s, but I don't think the copper remover did much, but it surely did not hurt. I usually just use some type of CLP ( 3 in one cleaner, lube and preservative) on my handguns. Rifles are a different story and I regularly use a copper remover. I have used different ones but really like Butches bore shine. Have a glock 17 with about 5000 rounds through it and accuracy has been the same since new and never used any copper removing chemicals.

 

[Bill Lumberg]

Depends upon your round count and accuracy goals. I shot for years and never used anything but Hoppes. It was a while later when I was introduced to what a clean bore looked like and modern chemicals that made an actual clean bore as easy to get as the completely dull gray fouled barrel I thought was clean. I didn't have any particular problems before I started removing fouling. But once I figured out how much stuff was left in the bore, I couldnt' go back to pretend-clean again. That said- I haven't found the foam cleaners, on average, do do much. I use Boretech eliminator. Fast and easy.

 

[Smoker]

Only if you have a copper build up..

 

[fg17]

Depends upon your round count and accuracy goals. I shot for years and never used anything but Hoppes. It was a while later when I was introduced to what a clean bore looked like and modern chemicals that made an actual clean bore as easy to get as the completely dull gray fouled barrel I thought was clean. I didn't have any particular problems before I started removing fouling. But once I figured out how much stuff was left in the bore, I couldnt' go back to pretend-clean again. That said- I haven't found the foam cleaners, on average, do do much. I use Boretech eliminator. Fast and easy.

Just checked out the boretech web site. Will have to give it a try sometime. Stuff looks good but not so harsh that it can do any harm. Thanks

 

[Bill Lumberg]

It doesn't harm your hands or any part of a glock, but it's rough on stock glock brushes. For boretech eliminator, I use Iosso polymer brushes, purchased for pocket change from Brownell's.

 

[fg17]

Thanks Bill

 

[19+15+1]

OK, now you've got me curious to try a copper remover to see if have any build-up. Has anyone used M-Pro 7's copper product? I'm a big fan of both their cleaner and oil so my inclination is to try that brand.

 

[Jim S.]

You could probably wait until you see a loss of accuracy and then clean the barrel.
I think it would be a lot less work to just keep it clean.

 

[Arc Angel]

About every 5th or 6th bore cleaning I switch from Ballistol to Flitz Metal Polish. Never a problem; and my bores are spotless!
This may, or may not, show it. (I'm not very good with a camera.) :dunno:

Another thing I do is to coat my bores with Sentry Solutions, 'Smooth Kote', PASSIVATED molybdenum disulfide. This makes cleanup fast 'n easy, and seems to improve velocity, too.

 

[.38 super]

About every 5th or 6th bore cleaning I switch from Ballistol to Flitz Metal Polish....Another thing I do is to coat my bores with Sentry Solutions, 'Smooth Kote', PASSIVATED molybdenum disulfide. This makes cleanup fast 'n easy, and seems to improve velocity, too.

Good info! You mean polishing the bore with Flitz metal Polish ? Never thought about it... I only run bore snake after shooting...
Any idea if the product you mention - "Smooth Kote" is much different than KG-10 ? ( http://www.kgcoatings.com/lubricants/kg-10-micro-moly-dry-lube/ ) I used it on my shotgun and hardly ever clean the bore, it's absolutely amazing when you run hundred shells and bore hardly leaves a mark on your pinkie if you swipe it in the muzzle...

 

[Tiro Fijo]

Copper does not fuse with steel until circa. 3,000 fps. There can be some copper "wash" in a handgun barrel, however that is usually just "wash" left over from a bronze brush.

I have shot Glocks since '86 and never used a copper cleaner as it's not needed. Just clean the carbon in the barrel after every range session and all will be well. Don't pole vault over a mouse turd here.

 

[DWARREN123]

I do not believe I have ever seen copper in one of my Glock barrels. I have seen a little lead but only after a lot of lead went down range. :supergrin:
I do use Hoppe's to clean the bore but only get powder residue out.

 

[AJE]

I haven't used anything but a bore snake in years in my handguns.

 

[Ryobi]

Brave man. I guess that's proof bore cleaning isn't entirely necessary at all, much less copper removal.

 

[Arc Angel]

Good info! You mean polishing the bore with Flitz metal Polish ? Never thought about it... I only run bore snake after shooting ... Any idea if the product you mention - "Smooth Kote" is much different than KG-10 ?

( http://www.kgcoatings.com/lubricants/kg-10-micro-moly-dry-lube/ )

I used it on my shotgun and hardly ever clean the bore, it's absolutely amazing when you run hundred shells and bore hardly leaves a mark on your pinkie if you swipe it in the muzzle...

Flitz Metal Polish is amazing stuff! The ingredients in the metal polish are EXACTLY the same as in Flitz Bore Cleaner; consequently, I don't care which Flitz product I use. (It's easier for me to get the polish at True Value Hardware than it is the bore cleaner anywhere else in town.)

http://www.brownells.com/gun-cleani...g-chemicals/solvents-degreasers/bore-solvents/flitz-bore-cleaner-prod55022.aspx

The problem with molybdenum disulfide, 'anything' is that MD tends to be hygroscopic - Different products to different degrees. True nothing sticks to any of it, bullets seem to whiz through the barrel, and cleanup takes only a few strokes; but, the stuff tends to attract and hold water vapor. UNLESS, you store your firearms in a temperature and humidity controlled environment (gun safe) and use the LEAST HYGROSCOPIC of all the various MD products, out there, that you can find. (There is no substitute for watching your internal bores as time passes!)

I like MD better than oil because, sooner or later, all oil starts to congeal and become acidic. I have found that I can leave a gun alone in the safe for up to 3 or 4 years before it needs an, 'oil change'. I'm, also, able to leave a moly-coated bore in the safe for twice that time without needing to pay any attention to it.

My own EDC has, now, gone for a good 4 months, in and out of the weather, with its, 'Smooth-Koted' bore remaining in pristine condition. I don't know what might happen with another MD product because I don't use anything else. It's been months since I've fired a centerfire pistol. I'm getting ready to do it today, though; and, later on, I'll know how my G-19's MD coated bore has stood up to such, 'perfect neglect'. (On those occasions when I've looked I haven't seen anything unusual in the bore; so fine, I suspect! You have to be careful with semi-autos and snap caps. The use of snap caps tends to rub the chamber walls bare.)

When I first began posting that I was using Flitz Metal Polish to clean my bores some guy on this board threw a real, 'hissy fit'. He insisted that I was ruining my gun. I knew then that no such thing was taking place; and I am positive now (6 or 7 years later) than Flitz is no more, or no less, wearing on a gun than any other gun cleaning compound might be.

Sentry Solutions, 'Smooth-Kote' is, 'passivated'. The material fact sheet Sentry's Mark Mrozek sent me indicates that their passivated MoS2 does not become significantly hygroscopic until after a coated metal surface has been exposed to a temperature of 600 degrees + Fahrenheit; or in other words, 'after the gun has been fired'. (So clean it!)

Here's a quote from Sentry's email: 'Dry lubrication for MoS2 low friction coatings remains superior at higher temperatures, with oxidation rates remaining relatively low at temperatures up to 600 degrees Fahrenheit. And in dry, oxygen-free atmospheres, lubricating performance, even with oxidation products, is stable to 1300 degrees Fahrenheit.' I may only assume similar performance for the KG-10 product that you are using?

I check my bores by sight. Personally, I'm not a big fan of using bore snakes. I know that, to a degree, they work; but, other than while I'm at a trap range, I've got no good use for them and hate handling or carrying a dirty bore snake around with me. A Dewey Rod, a cotton patch, or two, and into the garbage it goes! :supergrin:

http://www.sentrysolutions.com/mm5/.../merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=SENTRY&Product_Code=91030&Category_Code=SS

 

[Bill Lumberg]

I use flitz when I want to remove the black oxide or bluing from a surface. I prefer JB non-embedding bore cleaner and (separate) bore polish for polishing a bore. Both good products. For the record, I actually clean my bores (rather than dusting theim), but it's much faster once they're polished.

 

[Arc Angel]

I use flitz when I want to remove the black oxide or bluing from a surface. I prefer JB non-embedding bore cleaner and (separate) bore polish for polishing a bore. Both good products. For the record, I actually clean my bores (rather than dusting theim), but it's much faster once they're polished.

Yup, Flitz metal cleaning solutions can do that! (But so do, 'Lead Away' cloths, and Iosso Bore Cleaner - Which are both excellent, and nearly identical chemical products, in their own right.) The cylinder faces on all of my older S & W revolvers show bare metal. It was either this, or a heavy lead splatter and wash. I chose to get rid of the lead. (Who cares? I have heavily used all of them, anyway and, mechanically, they are all perfect.)

 

[19+15+1]

This is why I love this place... you learn something new every day.

 

[Arc Angel]

This is why I love this place .... You learn something new everyday.

Not necessarily! :rofl: