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uofaengr

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
Last week I picked up a brand new 17.4 FS, my only 17. I only own Gen 4's (and whatever the 43 is) and the triggers have always had a defined wall with either no detectable creep or varying degrees of creep before the break.

This trigger doesn't have a wall or hard stop...just take-up, then stacking as the pull continues, then a break. It has a dot connector and OEM parts.

This new 17 feels very Gen 5 to me in the trigger. Smooth take-up, then no wall, just resistance until you get to a crisp break. Basically a rolling break after the take-up. It's different, but I don't hate it although I like the wall. I suspect a lot of the Gen 5 trigger lovers would really like this trigger. I handled a friend's 34.4 last week with OEM trigger and minus connector that came in it, and it had a wall and a break that didn't seem any lighter than this 17.

Again, all my Glocks have all OEM parts and dot connectors. So unless it's some slight variation in connector geometry, what would create the lack of any wall in this trigger?

Edited to focus simply on a brand new, never fired Glock.
 
I honestly do not know but think it has something to do with the connector and trigger bar being stamped. The machine stamping them could be slightly worn in some way and the next one over could be 100% perfect.

So some parts come out with minutely different angles on there bearing surfaces.

This is just my WAG :cheers:
 
I almost to the point of being flagrant was asking about the wall in a thread I posted, last week. Got nothing definitive except the friction between the parts (paraphrasing, here) rubbing against each other. In reality, there should be no 'DIFINITIVE WALL' as it is NOT designed to be there. It's merely a symptom of parts that are pressed, or whatever Glock does to make them. It's the VERY reason you can explain why one Glock has a wall and one does not....they are pressed parts with no bearing surfaces worth a boar's tit nipple. My best guess (and I'm never wrong when I guess) is when the tooling is new, there's less of the infamous wall.

The 'wall' isn't a trigger pull that starts out at .5 lbs and breaks at 5.0lbs. It's a pull that could break at 4.5lbs but needs that extra, muzzle bumping and target killing 'oommph' to break.

The 'WALL' is a symptom of mass produced machining.
 
The internet cannot feel what somebody's finger is feeling when describing a wall. I think folks need to send their trigger fingers back to Glock to have their fingers calibrated:deadhorse:

Sending an OP back to detail-strip one's Glock just to answer a bunch of questions is just fishing for an answer.

When some figures out why a specific Glock trigger feels different from another; now that would be a good thread. I suppose the best answer to a post like this is, "If you say so". There apparently are different trigger "feels" between various individual Glocks. Substituting parts might i.d. what's causing a difference and that could only be done with the subject gun(s) in-person.

Don't mind me, I'm just grumpy.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
I almost to the point of being flagrant was asking about the wall in a thread I posted, last week. Got nothing definitive except the friction between the parts (paraphrasing, here) rubbing against each other. In reality, there should be no 'DIFINITIVE WALL' as it is NOT designed to be there. It's merely a symptom of parts that are pressed, or whatever Glock does to make them. It's the VERY reason you can explain why one Glock has a wall and one does not....they are pressed parts with no bearing surfaces worth a boar's tit nipple. My best guess (and I'm never wrong when I guess) is when the tooling is new, there's less of the infamous wall.

The 'wall' isn't a trigger pull that starts out at .5 lbs and breaks at 5.0lbs. It's a pull that could break at 4.5lbs but needs that extra, muzzle bumping and target killing 'oommph' to break.

The 'WALL' is a symptom of mass produced machining.
I understand that it's likely a function of tolerance stacking and whatnot from stamped parts, but are we sure that it's not designed to be there?

I used to have two Caniks that had triggers that put any Glock to shame. Smooth take-up, a defined wall, zero creep, and a crisp break at about 4 to 4.5 lb. I have to think it was designed that way.
 
I understand that it's likely a function of tolerance stacking and whatnot from stamped parts, but are we sure that it's not designed to be there?
Anyone who can find his ass with two hands knows it's not meant to be there. It's a hoax.

The 'wall' is not a feature design. It's a symptom of MIM parts, with the Glock design.

Get your pipe............put this in it............and smoke it.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
The internet cannot feel what somebody's finger is feeling when describing a wall. I think folks need to send their trigger fingers back to Glock to have their fingers calibrated:deadhorse:

Sending an OP back to detail-strip one's Glock just to answer a bunch of questions is just fishing for an answer.

When some figures out why a specific Glock trigger feels different from another; now that would be a good thread. I suppose the best answer to a post like this is, "If you say so". There apparently are different trigger "feels" between various individual Glocks. Substituting parts might i.d. what's causing a difference and that could only be done with the subject gun(s) in-person.

Don't mind me, I'm just grumpy.
Well I don't have to detail strip anything because I already did that and put it in the OP...exactly what parts all of these Glocks have. So I'm just not going to respond to a question when better reading comprehension is the answer. Not being a dick, I'm just saying.

Trigger feel is subjective, but there is a clear difference between a trigger that never stops after its pre-travel and continues stacking till it breaks, and one that hard stops until more pressure is applied until it breaks.
 
Your description SOUNDS like you have an extremely shallow connector angle, which is obviously NOT the case since both of them have the dot connector and both behave the same way.

My first concern would be the potential for a safety issue. Just fishing in the dark here, but, if you have access to an armorer's inspection plate for the slide, I would look very closely at the amount of engagement between the cruciform and the striker tail to make sure it's not only holding on by a hair. Again, not likely that two different guns would be out of spec (or modified) in this area unless they both came from the same former owner or the same parts batch. I know you said nothing looked polished, but I'd still closely examine those contact surfaces for anything that looks out of the ordinary. Then again, it could be none of these things...just thinking out loud.
 
Discussion starter · #11 · (Edited)
Your description SOUNDS like you have an extremely shallow connector angle, which is obviously NOT the case since both of them have the dot connector and both behave the same way.

My first concern would be the potential for a safety issue. Just fishing in the dark here, but, if you have access to an armorer's inspection plate for the slide, I would look very closely at the amount of engagement between the cruciform and the striker tail to make sure it's not only holding on by a hair. Again, not likely that two different guns would be out of spec (or modified) in this area unless they both came from the same former owner or the same parts batch. I know you said nothing looked polished, but I'd still closely examine those contact surfaces for anything that looks out of the ordinary. Then again, it could be none of these things...just thinking out loud.
Good info, however the 17 is brand new bought directly from a dealer. I really shouldn't even have mentioned the 21 as that's what's going to get looked at the most since it's used although the 17 is brand new. The brand new 17 has a nice trigger, just feels more like the Gen 5 rolling break..which I'm also curious to know what they changed in the Gen 5 to give it the "improved" trigger most speak of.

I did edit the OP to focus on the new Glock, but that's an idea to compare the angle of this 17's connector with my 19's maybe although they're all "dots".
 
I have 6 Gen 4 Glocks, two 19's, two 17's, & two 26's that have a smooth take up, a defined wall and a fairly crisp break.

Hear is the thing tho, I use a mixture of stock Glock parts and aftermarket parts. I also have spent about 3 hours per pistol polishing parts and looking over springs and putting them back together, testing them, all to have to break them down and work on them more.

Before I did all that work to em they all had a wall but some had a gritty take up or let off. There was one of my G17's that felt just like a damn staple gun with the same SPOINK! sounds when she broke. o_O

Now this may be different from other folks, but I have noticed the Gen 5 and 19X and such that I have, and have shot seem to all be about the same. There totally different than my Gen 4 Glocks, a nice rolling break, some may not like it but they seem to be very consistent.
 
I think folks need to send their trigger fingers back to Glock to have their fingers calibrated:deadhorse:


Don't mind me, I'm just grumpy.
No dude...they got the 25 cent trigger finger job, now.

Don't mind me, either. I've been grumpy for a week to the point of agitated. Matter of fact, it's almost at Mr. T angry. Has nothing to do with here, though. I think I may need to go to one of those 'jets cooling' places. ;)
 
Before I will buy any Glock I will dry fire it. The owner of my LGS has learned this about me and is okay with it. He has learned I’m going to try them before I buy them.
More than once I’ve said no and asked to try another. Once I said no to a Gen 5 19 when is was really hard to get one and waited for the next one.
I’ve seen two Glock trigger’s side by side, both pulled from a brand new box, feel very different.
I recently traded a 365 for a friends 27, I tried the trigger (with rounds down range) before buying.
I’m no .40 fanboy, I would’ve made the trade if it would have been a 26, I no longer care about caliber.
I know I’m in the minority here, but I did not like the trigger on the 365, the Glock’s felt so much better.
The 27 I ended up with has the best trigger I can remember receiving on a Glock, and it has a wall, but a very crisp break.
That or the mushy trigger of the 365 just makes it feel that way...



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Stamped parts and molded frames. I've owned a couple dozen Glocks over the years. No two can be said to have had the same trigger pull. Parts that give an acceptable trigger in one frame might not be worth anything if put in another frame. You can work on them, polish, move parts around from one to another and you can get close to a similar trigger in multiple Glocks. But, in actuality, it's not precision parts.
 
Didn't Johnny Glock in one of his vids illustrate the relationship between the trigger bar and connector....and he says that the stock connector creates a sharper break due to the steeper angle?

The minus connector has a shallower [more sloping angle] that the connector rides against giving it more of a rolling break...or at least thats the claim.

Still trying to sort this out myself.....

....
 
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