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welike45acp

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I have a G27 Gen3 on 40SW and was thinking of putting together a complete G26 upper to use as a 9mm conversion. I know I could get a conversion barrel but am concerned about reliability with the 27 extractor and ejector. If I change the entire slide should I also change the ejector? Really not sure how much of a difference there is between the 9 and 40 ejectors.

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A G27 to G26 caliber swap does not require a complete top end swap. The difference between rim diameters is 0.03", or 0.015" radially. Put into almost positive numbers, that's approximately 1/3d of a millimeter. Hopefully this gives you some idea just how small is the difference! Even if the 9mm rim moved laterally away from the extractor as it possibly could, it cannot escape being engaged. Additionally, because the ejector IS pushing the round away, this means it's pushing it directly toward the side the ejector is on.
I would recommend you save the money on a new slide and buy the dedicated 9mm "conversion" barrel unless it's outrageously priced, in which case I'd buy a plain old G26 barrel. Why? Again, the ONLY difference between a so-called conversion barrel and regular is the width of the barrel hood - that little tang that sticks out the back and indexes into the slot running up the breech face.
The hood is intended to create a mechanical alignment between slide and barrel for repeatable accuracy, so it does have a function, but this is more applicable to guns of the 1911 type which use rounded profile barrels and internal lugs.
On guns like Glock, the monster-size, "square" chamber profile (external) fits snug into the slide with ample lateral support to establish and maintain alignment. The gun will work perfectly fine with a standard G26 barrel which will have zero negative impact on the gun's use for SD or CCW.

The first, best thing to do is install the barrel, load up some 9mm and shoot the gun. THEN start worrying about what to do IF it doesn't work reliably.
If the gun cycles reliably you're done.
Modifying the extractor on a Glock is almost too easy. Remove all the components. Grab the extractor and locate the tiny pad on the inside that contacts the slide - this is what limits the extractor from rotating further in. Grab your dial calipers and mic the thickness of the extractor right at that tiny pad. Then, using a small file, give the pad a few strokes - remember you're only trying to allow the extractor to rotate in a TINY amount! Check fit using a 9mm cartridge rim inserted into the breech slot under the extractor and feel how firmly it grips it.
Give it a few more strokes with the file, check with the micrometer and once you've thinned it by about 0.001" you're done for sure.

To give you some perspective, I've been running a .40S&W slide on my CZ-75 fitted with .22TCM9R barrel. The rim on a .22TCM9R is about 0.020" smaller than the 9mm rim, so there is noticeable "play" between the rim diameter and breech face. The extractor has been modified as stated above, and the gun has its stock .40S&W ejector. It works superbly.
 
A G27 to G26 caliber swap does not require a complete top end swap. The difference between rim diameters is 0.03", or 0.015" radially. Put into almost positive numbers, that's approximately 1/3d of a millimeter. Hopefully this gives you some idea just how small is the difference! Even if the 9mm rim moved laterally away from the extractor as it possibly could, it cannot escape being engaged. Additionally, because the ejector IS pushing the round away, this means it's pushing it directly toward the side the ejector is on.
I would recommend you save the money on a new slide and buy the dedicated 9mm "conversion" barrel unless it's outrageously priced, in which case I'd buy a plain old G26 barrel. Why? Again, the ONLY difference between a so-called conversion barrel and regular is the width of the barrel hood - that little tang that sticks out the back and indexes into the slot running up the breech face.
The hood is intended to create a mechanical alignment between slide and barrel for repeatable accuracy, so it does have a function, but this is more applicable to guns of the 1911 type which use rounded profile barrels and internal lugs.
On guns like Glock, the monster-size, "square" chamber profile (external) fits snug into the slide with ample lateral support to establish and maintain alignment. The gun will work perfectly fine with a standard G26 barrel which will have zero negative impact on the gun's use for SD or CCW.

The first, best thing to do is install the barrel, load up some 9mm and shoot the gun. THEN start worrying about what to do IF it doesn't work reliably.
If the gun cycles reliably you're done.
Modifying the extractor on a Glock is almost too easy. Remove all the components. Grab the extractor and locate the tiny pad on the inside that contacts the slide - this is what limits the extractor from rotating further in. Grab your dial calipers and mic the thickness of the extractor right at that tiny pad. Then, using a small file, give the pad a few strokes - remember you're only trying to allow the extractor to rotate in a TINY amount! Check fit using a 9mm cartridge rim inserted into the breech slot under the extractor and feel how firmly it grips it.
Give it a few more strokes with the file, check with the micrometer and once you've thinned it by about 0.001" you're done for sure.

To give you some perspective, I've been running a .40S&W slide on my CZ-75 fitted with .22TCM9R barrel. The rim on a .22TCM9R is about 0.020" smaller than the 9mm rim, so there is noticeable "play" between the rim diameter and breech face. The extractor has been modified as stated above, and the gun has its stock .40S&W ejector. It works superbly.
What about barrel diameter with g26 barrel and the g27 slide hole? Isn’t that the reason for the 9mm conversion barrel?
 
I'd just put the g26 slide on the g27 frame and try shooting it to test function/ reliability. If it works then no need to change parts, including ejector. I do it all the time with all my sub, compact, and fullsize glocks with different parts, slides, barrels. ...etc. Just make sure to test it before you trust it.
 
What about barrel diameter with g26 barrel and the g27 slide hole?
G26 barrel outside diameter is 0.570 inches.

G27 barrel outside diameter is 0.590 inches.

You may put an OEM G26 barrel in a G27. Then, compared to a real G26, you would also have the incorrect slide breech face and barrel journal, ejector, extractor, spring-loaded bearing, firing pin, and magazine.

What could possibly ever go wrong? :)
I have a G27 Gen3 on 40SW and was thinking of putting together a complete G26 upper to use as a 9mm conversion. I know I could get a conversion barrel but am concerned about reliability...
That sounds as if you intend to use the conversion for serious purpose as a weapon. Then why would you consider downgrading your G27 to a caliber inferior to 40SW?

Beyond that, why would you NOT be considering the ONLY G27 caliber conversion sanctioned by Glock, if reliability is really a concern (as it definitely should be). That would be "conversion" to 357SIG.

That's not really a conversion, because an OEM Gen3 G27 with OEM G33 barrel installed is EVERY PART IDENTICAL to an OEM Gen3 G33...including the sights...except for model/caliber markings on the slide.

Underwood 125-gr JHP leaves my G33 barrel (in a G27) at 1410 fps and 552 ft•lbf. That dwarfs anything a 9x19mm conversion barrel can produce by almost 200 ft•lbf.

If you are serious about ultimate weapon effectiveness and reliability, all you need is 357SIG JHP, your G27, and an OEM G33 barrel for $125 direct from Glock:

https://store.teamglock.com/barrel-g33-357.html
 
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