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Dillon 550b Shell Plate tough to turn

7.3K views 18 replies 10 participants last post by  njl  
#1 ·
When I’m loading on my Dillon 550b, I find myself having to loosen the bolt holding the shell plate in fairly often. I think the problem is that when I’m turning the shell plate to rotate the cartridges I’m loading I’m somehow tightening the bolt holding the shell plate in.

I know the problem is operator error.

How do I correct this problem?

Thanks.
 
#2 ·
First make sure the underside of the shell plate is clean. Hand tighten the bolt down to where it is almost hard to rotate and back the bolt out alittle. Raise the shell plate up and insert and tighten the brass set screw in the hole on the shaft. The brass set screw shoud prevent the bolt from backing out.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Ohub Campfire mobile app
 
#4 · (Edited)
When I’m loading on my Dillon 550b, I find myself having to loosen the bolt holding the shell plate in fairly often. I think the problem is that when I’m turning the shell plate to rotate the cartridges I’m loading I’m somehow tightening the bolt holding the shell plate in.

I know the problem is operator error.

How do I correct this problem?

Thanks.
Check that your set screw is installed. That is what prevents the main bolt from rotating. (judging from what you describe, this is likely the prob) Assuming you have the ball bearing installed under the plate and that there are no obstructions...
Just FYI...
Another thing that can hinder plate rotation is if you need to adjust the silver thing that knocks out the finished round (I can't remember the name). Sometimes different plates require it be slid up or down to allow the plate/index star to move freely. I have to adjust mine when changing from/to .40/10mm and .223. That's all I can think of for now. Good luck and let us know how it works.
 
#5 ·
I have had the same problem and have tried every possible solution I could find, including over a dozen calls to dillon. I'm at the point where I'm considering getting another press. Mine is so loose, the only way for it to turn easily, that the brass wiggles in the shell plate. I've replaced the brass set screw twice, The shoulder bolt once, tried several different springs including cutting them down to different lengths, adjusted the silver wire thing that knocks the round into the bin. I've cleaned and taken it apart dozens of times. I can never make if more than 75-100 rounds before I'm using 2 hands to turn it so I don't spill powder. So needless to say I'm not real happy it. I've considered upgrading to a 650 but really don't want to. And then what if I have the same problems? Dillon gives me the same advice every time I call them. They keep telling me I'm forgetting about the set screw. Believe me I'm not. LOL. Good luck. I will watch this thread with the hope some one has the solution. I've had this problem for about 3 years. I would love to send it back to them but if you follow the instructions it's always good for about 75-100 rounds, so you have to actually reload some ammo to see the problem. I have no idea how they could see that without actually reloading some ammo.
 
#6 · (Edited)
I have had the same problem and have tried every possible solution I could find, including over a dozen calls to dillon. I'm at the point where I'm considering getting another press. Mine is so loose, the only way for it to turn easily, that the brass wiggles in the shell plate. I've replaced the brass set screw twice, The shoulder bolt once, tried several different springs including cutting them down to different lengths, adjusted the silver wire thing that knocks the round into the bin. I've cleaned and taken it apart dozens of times. I can never make if more than 75-100 rounds before I'm using 2 hands to turn it so I don't spill powder. So needless to say I'm not real happy it. I've considered upgrading to a 650 but really don't want to. And then what if I have the same problems? Dillon gives me the same advice every time I call them. They keep telling me I'm forgetting about the set screw. Believe me I'm not. LOL. Good luck. I will watch this thread with the hope some one has the solution. I've had this problem for about 3 years. I would love to send it back to them but if you follow the instructions it's always good for about 75-100 rounds, so you have to actually reload some ammo to see the problem. I have no idea how they could see that without actually reloading some ammo.
Take allen wrench. Put it in the bolt that holds the shellplate. LEAVE IT IN. Notice which way it's pointing. Loosen the set screw and either loosen the shoulder bolt or tighten it 1/8 a turn in the proper direction. Tighten set screw. Don't start from scratch each time. If that doesn't work CALL DILLON and have them rebuild the press. But first try to either tighten it or loosen it a smidge at a time.

Also, grease under the shoulder bolt just a little.
 
#8 ·
If it's getting harder to turn over the course of 50-100 rounds, it's probably either tightening slowly as you load (seems unlikely if the set screw is properly tightened) or its binding due to crud or just rough surfaces below. I've recently started putting some grease under my shell plate (where it drags against the ball), as I'd noticed it was sticking to the point that when it finally moved, powder would be thrown out of the case that was just charged.
 
#11 ·
I'm also wondering about lubing the shell plate. With the shell plate passing over the primer, anyone have a concern over the lube getting into the primer?
Just a little grease...don't hose it down with CLP. Even if you go out as far as the detent ball, you're still not out far enough to get to the primers.
 
#12 ·
IIRC the only part of the Shellplate that actually touches the press is at the shoulder bolt. So greasing anything else is just making a mess for no benefit. Greasing the ball just slows it down a little so it would be a little less snappy into the hole.

For those having issues it would be interesting to know if the underside of your shellplate has rub marks anywhere besides the very center and a ring that the ball makes around the middle.
 
#13 ·
Yep, I put a little grease under the shoulder bolt and have also tried your suggestion with the allen wrench. The press has been doing this since I got it. I guess I'll have to call dillon and see if they will rebuild it. I get the same suggestions from Dillon time after time after waiting on hold for at least an hour each time. I guess I could try one last time to ask them to rebuild it. I wish they tracked how many times you called and for what reason so they could see a pattern.

Take allen wrench. Put it in the bolt that holds the shellplate. LEAVE IT IN. Notice which way it's pointing. Loosen the set screw and either loosen the shoulder bolt or tighten it 1/8 a turn in the proper direction. Tighten set screw. Don't start from scratch each time. If that doesn't work CALL DILLON and have them rebuild the press. But first try to either tighten it or loosen it a smidge at a time.

Also, grease under the shoulder bolt just a little.
 
#14 ·
IIRC the only part of the Shellplate that actually touches the press is at the shoulder bolt. So greasing anything else is just making a mess for no benefit. Greasing the ball just slows it down a little so it would be a little less snappy into the hole.

For those having issues it would be interesting to know if the underside of your shellplate has rub marks anywhere besides the very center and a ring that the ball makes around the middle.
The problem I had was the ball not wanting to come out of the shell plate holes. A little grease on the ball made a huge difference.
 
#16 ·
Yep, I put a little grease under the shoulder bolt and have also tried your suggestion with the allen wrench. The press has been doing this since I got it. I guess I'll have to call dillon and see if they will rebuild it. I get the same suggestions from Dillon time after time after waiting on hold for at least an hour each time. I guess I could try one last time to ask them to rebuild it. I wish they tracked how many times you called and for what reason so they could see a pattern.
What if the threads for the setscrew aren't tapped far enough down and the locking setscrew, no matter how you tighten it, doesn't lock the shoulder bolt?

There is only one way the shellplate gets tighter and that's if the shoulder bolt tightens up. Oh, I suppose a bunch of junk could get under the shellplate but I doubt it. If it did, you would see it.

I would back the shoulder bolt out about 1/2 turn (not an important amount) and lock the setscrew. Now I would try to turn the shoulder bolt - it better not be easy to move. In fact, if the setscrew is doing its job, it should be nearly impossible to turn. I wouldn't want to damage anything so I wouldn't put a cheater bar on the allen wrench but the shoulder bolt should be tight!

Or, next time it tightens up, loosen the setscrew and turn the shoulder bolt back just a smidge (1 smidge = 1/32 turn). Did that loosen the shellplate? If so, there is simply no doubt that the shoulder bolt is tightening up. Investigate why the setscrew isn't holding it in place.

Come up with a way to mark the location of the shoulder bolt. Does it change as the shellplate tightens up?

This is a mechanical thing. It should be pretty easy to figure out why the shellplate gets tighter.

Richard
 
#17 ·
I will give that a try. I appreciate everyone's input and didn't mean to hijack this thread.


What if the threads for the setscrew aren't tapped far enough down and the locking setscrew, no matter how you tighten it, doesn't lock the shoulder bolt?

There is only one way the shellplate gets tighter and that's if the shoulder bolt tightens up. Oh, I suppose a bunch of junk could get under the shellplate but I doubt it. If it did, you would see it.

I would back the shoulder bolt out about 1/2 turn (not an important amount) and lock the setscrew. Now I would try to turn the shoulder bolt - it better not be easy to move. In fact, if the setscrew is doing its job, it should be nearly impossible to turn. I wouldn't want to damage anything so I wouldn't put a cheater bar on the allen wrench but the shoulder bolt should be tight!

Or, next time it tightens up, loosen the setscrew and turn the shoulder bolt back just a smidge (1 smidge = 1/32 turn). Did that loosen the shellplate? If so, there is simply no doubt that the shoulder bolt is tightening up. Investigate why the setscrew isn't holding it in place.

Come up with a way to mark the location of the shoulder bolt. Does it change as the shellplate tightens up?

This is a mechanical thing. It should be pretty easy to figure out why the shellplate gets tighter.

Richard
 
#18 ·
I always like to run the shellplate nice and tight so that junk won't get between it start to bind it. To loose and that is what happens amongst other issues. I always take it off and blow off the surfaces with compressed air (while holding that little ball that wants to fly away.). Once nice and clean, I pull the handle a bit and leave the allen wrench in the set screw hole and rest the handle upward again (not fully up). I then tighten the top screw all the way and back it off slightly. Tighten the set screw and test the movement. If too tight, loosen the set screw, loosen the top screw just ever so much more, tighten the set screw, test the movement again. Repeat until you just have smooth movement. Doing it this way always makes it so tight I usually don't get any junk between the shell plate and the press. Once perfect, make sure that set screw is tight or it can loosen.