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Cerakote - light strikes - BEWARE!

9.8K views 26 replies 21 participants last post by  bigbrother1984  
#1 · (Edited)
I had an old beater Glock 22 Cerakoted not long ago, and yesterday had a sobering problem rear its head. I was shooting on an indoor range, and the a/c was turned up so that it was really cold inside. The gun started to have repeated failures to fire - two or three rounds per magazine. The primers were lightly dimpled, and upon rechambering, each round would fire fine. This was Winchester NATO M882 ball.

I disassembled the slide assembly, and when the firing pin assembly came out of the slide, the firing pin channel liner came out with it - it just slid out under light finger traction. Clearly, this is not supposed to happen, as the FPCL is supposed to be a tight friction fit in the firing pin channel. I have been a Glock armorer for 15 years and had never seen this before.

My belief is that the heat curing of the Cerakote (baking at 250F for 4 hours is called for by Cerakote) caused the FPCL to shrink a bit, and the cold a/c might have caused the slide to contract a bit in the cold as well, leading to the loose fit of the FPCL. Apparently, the FPCL sliding back and forth in its channel WITH the firing pin assembly, rather than staying still and giving it resistance, was robbing the firing pin of enough energy that it caused light strikes and clicks instead of bangs. As this is a carry gun, this was a dangerous condition of unreliability. I replaced the FPCL, and this fixed the problem.

Bottom line: if you have had your slide heated (as for Cerakote curing), check your FPCL to make sure it is firmly fixed in its channel. If needed, replace your FPCL with a new unit.

Happy Reliable Glocking!
 
#2 ·
This channel liner vs. cerakoting problem is common. Some remove the channel liner before the process begins.

The real lesson to be learned is: Don't apply the cosmetic clown paint known as cerakote to any Glock that has a serious intended function. There is absolutely no positive functional value to cerakoting and other such fluff, and there are some very serious negative consequences.
 
#3 ·
I had an old beater Glock 22 Cerakoted not long ago, and yesterday had a sobering problem rear its head. I was shooting on an indoor range, and the a/c was turned up so that it was really cold inside. The gun started to have repeated failures to fire - two or three rounds per magazine. The primers were lightly dimpled, and upon rechambering, each round would fire fine. This was Winchester NATO M882 ball.

I disassembled the slide assembly, and when the firing pin assembly came out of the slide, the firing pin channel liner came out with it - it just slid out under light finger traction. Clearly, this is not supposed to happen, as the FPCL is supposed to be a tight friction fit in the firing pin channel. I have been a Glock armorer for 15 years and had never seen this before.

My belief is that the heat curing of the Cerakote (baking at 250F for 4 hours is called for by Cerakote) caused the FPCL to shrink a bit, and the cold a/c might have caused the slide to contract a bit in the cold as well, leading to the loose fit of the FPCL. Apparently, the FPCL sliding back and forth in its channel WITH the firing pin assembly, rather than staying still and giving it resistance, was robbing the firing pin of enough energy that it caused light strikes and clicks instead of bangs. As this is a carry gun, this was a dangerous condition of unreliability. I replaced the FCPL, and this fixed the problem.

Bottom line: if you have had your slide heated (as for Cerakote curing), check your FPCL to make sure it is firmly fixed in its channel. If needed, replace your FPCL with a new unit.

Happy Reliable Glocking!
Get your money back from the moron who applied the Cerakote.
 
#16 ·
Not trying to be a "smart a## but....
Wouldn't *common sense* tell ya to "remove all plastic/rubber parts prior to baking in an oven"....???
Key words "Baking(heat)...Oven"...:freak:
How do we know the Cerakote guy did not remove the sleeve?
 
#18 ·
I know a guy that did it himself in his backyard to his glock 22......sprayed it on too thick and the gun never worked right....he had to strip it down to nothing and reapply several times before he got it right. seems too hard for me, besides I dont want my glock to look pretty!
 
#19 ·
It's all in the skill of the applicator. I've had my 23 done a couple of times and it always worked great. But I've seen customer's guns done by another guy that boogered their guns up pretty badly. One had actually overheated the frame to the point it warped and was turned into junk.
 
#23 ·
I would think you'd want to replace the FPCL after doing that type of work.

If you leave the FPCL in during the Cerakote spray and cure (to keep the channel clean), I'd want to replace the FPCL after subjecting it to heat and Cerakote.

If you took the FPCL out before Cerakote spray and cure; you likely damaged the FPCL in the process, and need a new one.

IIRC, the FPCL is not intended to be a reusable part after it's been installed.
 
#24 ·
I do not have much use for Cerakote as it is nothing more then a DIY spray paint but in this case you can't blame the product because you chose to have a uneducated stupid person refinish your gun.

Common sense would tell you to remove the channel liner, This is a classic case of just because you can buy a DIY product doesn't make you a gunsmith
 
#26 ·
Cerakote is a fine product if applied correctly.

IMO changing the channel liner shouldn't even be necessary after a Cerakote application, since ALL the internal slide cavities should be 100% sealed off from overspray contamination.

And yes, I say "contamination" because ANY foreign material (with the exception of powder residue) does not belong in this area. Period.

Nitride is one thing, but anything else? No.