[damnyankee20]

Hi All,

I'm looking to start making my own bullets for reloads. Which molds do you use and secondly, is there a specific brand I should stay away from?

Thanks in advance!

DY

 

[_The_Shadow]

Probably the most common mold is the TC style bullet in 175 or 180 grain. That said the question you have to answer is how much volume do you anticapate?

The reason I ask is there are 1, 2, 3, 4 and 6 cavity molds.
Aluminum molds are lighter in weight so you don't get as fatigued over longer periods of casting, they cool off quicker . Draw back is they can be damaged more easily.
Brass molds work well too but at increased weight. Draw back is they can be damaged more easily.
Steel molds are heavier, retain heat and are rugged.

If you're looking for a cheaper mold to get you started I would suggest the LEE 6 cavity mold. The 6 cavitys from LEE are better over all and it will produce some nice bullets fast. http://www.midwayusa.com/Product/56...-cavity-bullet-mold-401-175-tc-40-s-and-w-401-diameter-175-grain-truncated-cone

However there are many different types and bullet shapes to consider, even molds that have change able pins for different nose shapes, these are usually a hollow point or if a flat pin is used the flat nose.
The mountain Mold Co. can make you a custom mold to order. http://mountainmolds.com/

Lyman used to produce and sell a single cavity 156gr Devastator Hollow Point mold for 10mm/40 cal, but they are now obsolete despite them still selling them in 357/9mm, 44 and 45cal. I have all of these and they are time consuming as you are working with the hollow pointer pin and single cavity mold.

I use the Lyman 4 cavity 175gr TCBB (turncated cone belvel base), RCBS 2 cavity 175 gr TC SWC, and 200gr TC SWC. The SWC (semi wad cutter) cut clean holes in paper targets which is better for scoring, if that is important to you.

Good luck wit your decision!

 

[damnyankee20]

Thank you for your expertise - you've given me a great reference point to get started.

I was thinking about 200 or 220gr for deer hunting and ~180 gr or so for general target plinking.

Anyway, thank you again!

 

[_The_Shadow]

You should have been a little more specific in your first post. Then Mountain mold would be you choice for having the 200gr or 220 being built, their cost are comparable to other molds.

BTW, I would not hesitate to bust a deer or hog with any of my cast bullet loads.

 

[damnyankee20]

Understood. But you're info is very, very helpful and thank you for expertise. I've never making my own but I'm at a point with reloading where I want to learn. Boolit making is a whole new dimension and really, it's a world unto itself.

Thank you again for your expertise - it is GREATLY appreciated! :yourock:

 

[Any Cal.]

I have a custom Mountain Mold for 10mm in a three cavity, and it works well. Just spend a couple or ten hours playing with his program 'til you get a feel for how various features of the bullet interact. When you think you've got what you want, have someone else look at it and see what they think, then send him some funds and start waiting.

I like the 6 cavity Lees, they are a good value and make a lot of boolits in a hurry. I think I get about the same amount of production out of it and the 3 hole Mountain Mold, just because the MM casts so well. The Lee handles will fit either brand. FSReloading is probably the least expensive for Lee stuff, and good to do business with.

The Lee 2 cavity molds are not very good, you will spend hours wishing you had spent the extra $13 or so for the 6 cavity, they are built much better.

 

[gofastman]

the Lee 175gr 6cav mold is awesome.

The Lee 2 cavity molds are not very good, you will spend hours wishing you had spent the extra $13 or so for the 6 cavity, they are built much better.

there is a rumor that LEE will be updating their 2 cav design to contain real alignment pins like the 6cav ones do
but in the mean time, I agree, they are not very good.

 

[bdhawk]

i agree, the lee 175 gr. 6 cavity, TC is an outstanding mold. one downside, is the beveled base. i get a bit of lube on the base, while lube/sizing 'em. i just wipe it off on a towel, just another step. on the plus side, the beveled base allows for a smaller 'belling' of the case.

both my G20sf, and my nightguard 310 shoot them very well.
accuracy and feeding are very good. to think of it, my XD service model shoots them with excellent results. i have not tried them in my G27 'cause i only have a stock barrel for it.

i liked my 10MM/.40 s&w mold so well, i bought a 230 grain TC 6 cavity, lee mold, for my .45s. so far, great results. even my very finicky [sp?] officers model 1911 likes the TC mold.

 

[gofastman]

I just tried some of lee's 180gr TL-SWC's. They cut better holes in paper (duh) but i dont think they are as accurate as the 175gr TC design

 

[steve4102]

My new and untested Lee 175gr TC conversion to HP by Hollowpointmolds.com.

 

[_The_Shadow]

Steve4102, the mold looks great Erik does great work. Just be gentle as you work with the mold, while cutting the sprues and ejecting the finished bullets, aluminum LEE molds can be knocked out of alignment or warped if subjected to too much while they are hot.

The finished bullets should be in the 150-156 grain weight.

Best regards!

 

[MakeMineA10mm]

I recommend you get the Lee 6-cavity 175gr TC mould to start with. It is an ideal shape and weight for a general-purpose bullet, it's reasonably priced, and will serve you well for the future, but if you decide to get out of casting, it will be easy to sell, as long as you are careful with it and do not damage it.

It is my only cast boolit for the 10mm right now.

I just got into Oreo's group buy for the custom 10mm bullet mould, which will cast a 190gr RNFP, or with the HP pins, either a 185gr (cup point) or 180gr (hollow point) bullet.

If you want a hunting bullet, I would not go over 200grs. Even at that weight, due to the lube groove, the cast bullet will seat deeper than an FMJ bullet of same weight (just as a JHP will seat deeper due to the hollow cavity). Since the 10mm has a small powder chamber, adding much weight beyond 200grs will cause velocities to drastically fall off. Going to 220(+)grs can slow the velocities down to near-45ACP speeds. Rather than giving the promise of the original 10mm (something between the 357 and 41 magnums), it will be something between a 45ACP and a 45 Super. IMO, that 20grs weight isn't worth it.

I'm going to try that 185gr cup point at ~1200+ out of an alloy of about 2/3 wheelweights & 1/3 pure lead plus 1% tin. The cup point with that alloy at that velocity should be close to ideal for expansion. I can't log into cast boolits right now, or I'd post a pic.

 

[MakeMineA10mm]

Here's the drawing:

Here's a photo:

Both of these photos are not mine. They are from folks over at castboolits.gunloads.com

 

[_The_Shadow]

Neat bullet, I don't like the SWC step although very small, looks like they casted well.
I would like to see some good quality gas checks from Hornady or Lyman on that style bullet, it should add to the performance.

 

[dm1906]

Neat bullet, I don't like the SWC step although very small, looks like they casted well.
I would like to see some good quality gas checks from Hornady or Lyman on that style bullet, it should add to the performance.

Normally, I would agree. However, it has a long nose, with a broad radius ogive and wide meplat. It may allow full length seating w/o throat interference (which seems more and more common these days), limited only by the magazine. I think I like this mold, and probably should have jumped in.