Thinking about picking one up from J&G Sales, has the red star on the grip. Anyone like them, recommendations, etc?
Bulgarian Makarov?
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bunk22
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Buy one without hesitation.
One of the TRUE modern bargains.
BTW, The Romanian Tokarev TTC's are also very reliable, and decently accurate.
Oh, one word of advise, spend the extra $20.00 and go for the "hand select".
I don't know if they are actually any different than the "run of the mill" ones, but, the hand selects I've had and seen, have all been in excellent condition.
One of the TRUE modern bargains.
BTW, The Romanian Tokarev TTC's are also very reliable, and decently accurate.
Oh, one word of advise, spend the extra $20.00 and go for the "hand select".
I don't know if they are actually any different than the "run of the mill" ones, but, the hand selects I've had and seen, have all been in excellent condition.
Those Bulgarian Makarovs have some seriously sharp edges. Man, I thought that my Russian commercial Makarov has sharp edges..till I picked up a Bulgarian one.
Ammo is limited. It ain't like the days of NORINCO imported ammo any more. Also, supposedly Blazer aluminum ammo doesn't work too well in them or something. Knock on wood, I shot about 100-rds of Blazer aluminum through my Russkie one without an issue.
Ammo is limited. It ain't like the days of NORINCO imported ammo any more. Also, supposedly Blazer aluminum ammo doesn't work too well in them or something. Knock on wood, I shot about 100-rds of Blazer aluminum through my Russkie one without an issue.
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I have about 17 Makarovs. About half are Bulgarian. I lost count since the picture was taken.
Execellent guns for the type they are. Slightly crude, accurate, highly reliable military pistol in blowback action in a mid size caliber.
They also came in .380 caliber.
It's generally accepted that the East German Maks have the best workmanship but I have never seen a new EG Mak.
The workmanship on the Russian is probably the crudest but still pretty good.
They and the Bulgarian Maks could be found from new to to having been used a lot.
My first Russian (slightly used) Mak cost $100. The last (new) one I bought cost $300.
I've found the accuracy to be as good as most low price semi autos and better than many.
At one point I tried to make a new from the box Mak malkunction in the first 1,000 rounds. 500 FMJ and 500 JHP.
I tried to make the gun malfunction from "normal use".
Each time the gun was fully loaded with a round in the chamber.
You leave your Mak in the car 24/7 in right cold weather. You pull it out and begin firing.
No malfunctions but it was cold to hold.
Loaded gun was left in water for some time.
No problem.
It seems that everyone gets uptight about "pocket lint" jamming their gun.
I loaded the gun's insides with "pocket lint".
No problem.
You pull your Mak to return fire.
But you drop the gun in the mud. (hammer cocked)
You have time to pick up the gun, shake it once, then pull the trigger (single action).
The mud blocks the hammer and the gun does not fire. All you can do is pull the trigger double action. The gun fires and you kill all 8 bad guys.
There were two failures to fire on the first trigger pull in the 1,000 rounds.
The mud blocked hammer and a bad primer.
A couple Maks that are hard to find is the civilian square trigger guard model..........
the Bulgarian 22LR conversion kit.
Since the blowback Mak has a little bit of sharp recoil I replaced all my recoil springs with 21 pound Wolf springs.
I lucked into this East German that a Dealer had refinished, then never shot.
I've never shot it, but I would if I didn't have a few other Maks to shoot.
Execellent guns for the type they are. Slightly crude, accurate, highly reliable military pistol in blowback action in a mid size caliber.
They also came in .380 caliber.
It's generally accepted that the East German Maks have the best workmanship but I have never seen a new EG Mak.
The workmanship on the Russian is probably the crudest but still pretty good.
They and the Bulgarian Maks could be found from new to to having been used a lot.
My first Russian (slightly used) Mak cost $100. The last (new) one I bought cost $300.
I've found the accuracy to be as good as most low price semi autos and better than many.
At one point I tried to make a new from the box Mak malkunction in the first 1,000 rounds. 500 FMJ and 500 JHP.
I tried to make the gun malfunction from "normal use".
Each time the gun was fully loaded with a round in the chamber.
You leave your Mak in the car 24/7 in right cold weather. You pull it out and begin firing.
No malfunctions but it was cold to hold.
Loaded gun was left in water for some time.
No problem.
It seems that everyone gets uptight about "pocket lint" jamming their gun.
I loaded the gun's insides with "pocket lint".
No problem.
You pull your Mak to return fire.
But you drop the gun in the mud. (hammer cocked)
You have time to pick up the gun, shake it once, then pull the trigger (single action).
The mud blocks the hammer and the gun does not fire. All you can do is pull the trigger double action. The gun fires and you kill all 8 bad guys.
There were two failures to fire on the first trigger pull in the 1,000 rounds.
The mud blocked hammer and a bad primer.
A couple Maks that are hard to find is the civilian square trigger guard model..........
the Bulgarian 22LR conversion kit.
Since the blowback Mak has a little bit of sharp recoil I replaced all my recoil springs with 21 pound Wolf springs.
I lucked into this East German that a Dealer had refinished, then never shot.
I've never shot it, but I would if I didn't have a few other Maks to shoot.
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30,515 Posts
"Reliable as a hammer."
Speaking of the hammer.
Do not use the Thumb Safety. I suggest leaving it OFF all the time.
A friend had a Mak that randomly failed to fire.
It liked to drove me crazy trying to figure it out.
Bang, Bang, hammer drop-click.
Look the gun over.
No problem.
Pull the trigger, Bang.
Maybe Bang again, or maybe hammer drop but no bang.
FINALLY................
I looked the gun over after every trigger pull, whether the gun fired or not.
Eventually I saw the problem.
When the gun fired the Thumb Safety was RANDONLY moving half way to SAFE. So when the trigger was pulled the next time, dropping the hammer, the hammer hit the Safety knocking it back down to "FIRE" but the hammer did not hit the firing pin.
Now when the trigger was pulled again, the Thumb Safety was Off and the gun fired.
Then the Safety may or may not be jarred up blocking the hammer on the next trigger pull.
I replaced the Thumb Safety/spring with a new one.
But personally I don't use the Mak's thumb safety.
Speaking of the hammer.
Do not use the Thumb Safety. I suggest leaving it OFF all the time.
A friend had a Mak that randomly failed to fire.
It liked to drove me crazy trying to figure it out.
Bang, Bang, hammer drop-click.
Look the gun over.
No problem.
Pull the trigger, Bang.
Maybe Bang again, or maybe hammer drop but no bang.
FINALLY................
I looked the gun over after every trigger pull, whether the gun fired or not.
Eventually I saw the problem.
When the gun fired the Thumb Safety was RANDONLY moving half way to SAFE. So when the trigger was pulled the next time, dropping the hammer, the hammer hit the Safety knocking it back down to "FIRE" but the hammer did not hit the firing pin.
Now when the trigger was pulled again, the Thumb Safety was Off and the gun fired.
Then the Safety may or may not be jarred up blocking the hammer on the next trigger pull.
I replaced the Thumb Safety/spring with a new one.
But personally I don't use the Mak's thumb safety.
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30,515 Posts
"A question for M-2....
I also have a Bulgarian.22 conversion.
In your travels have you ever found any extra magazines?"
No, I sure haven't.
I got the conversion from Makarov.com way back. No extras even then.
It's strange. The conversion kit is decent quality, although it took three Maks before I found one it would fit, but the magazines looked like they were hammered from old car fenders.
I also have a Bulgarian.22 conversion.
In your travels have you ever found any extra magazines?"
No, I sure haven't.
I got the conversion from Makarov.com way back. No extras even then.
It's strange. The conversion kit is decent quality, although it took three Maks before I found one it would fit, but the magazines looked like they were hammered from old car fenders.
My Russian commercial model came with a black leather holster. I found some extra mags for it at Gun Parts Corp and bought three more to make a total of five mags. I "think" that I even got Milt Sparks to make an OWB holster for mine too. Never carried the darn thing though.
Military Arms Channel torture tested one of these and to paraphrase Tim the commentator dude, the gun was unkillable. Or something to that effect.
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
Military Arms Channel torture tested one of these and to paraphrase Tim the commentator dude, the gun was unkillable. Or something to that effect.
Joined
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30,515 Posts
Hints for you reloaders.
The 9x18 is a very easy round to reload.
Of course the steel case and that which uses Bordan primers can't (easily) be reloaded.
Fired 9mm (9x19) brass cases can be reloaded after trimming the 9mm brass to 18 mm.
.380 cases are 17 mm long, 9x18 brass is 18 mm and the 9mm case is 19 mm long.
The 9mm bullet is .355 in diameter. The 9x18 bullet is .364 or .365 inch in diameter. Years back I loaded 100 grain .355 dia bullets (.9mm) in the Mak cases. No problem, but the neck of the brass case may have to be sized a smaller diameter to grab the bullet good. With a little trial and error, good loads can be loaded.
Children, DO NOT DO THIS AT HOME
but I have shot 115 gr factory load 9mm rounds in the Mak.
Seriously, don't bother, there's nothing to be gained.
I have loaded 115 grain .355 dia bullets in the Mak., compensating for the heavier bullet.
Functions fine.
The 9x18 is a very easy round to reload.
Of course the steel case and that which uses Bordan primers can't (easily) be reloaded.
Fired 9mm (9x19) brass cases can be reloaded after trimming the 9mm brass to 18 mm.
.380 cases are 17 mm long, 9x18 brass is 18 mm and the 9mm case is 19 mm long.
The 9mm bullet is .355 in diameter. The 9x18 bullet is .364 or .365 inch in diameter. Years back I loaded 100 grain .355 dia bullets (.9mm) in the Mak cases. No problem, but the neck of the brass case may have to be sized a smaller diameter to grab the bullet good. With a little trial and error, good loads can be loaded.
Children, DO NOT DO THIS AT HOME
but I have shot 115 gr factory load 9mm rounds in the Mak.Seriously, don't bother, there's nothing to be gained.
I have loaded 115 grain .355 dia bullets in the Mak., compensating for the heavier bullet.
Functions fine.
Joined
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30,515 Posts
I just ran across this early Texas concealed carry qualification target I shot with one of the Maks.
At the time I figured a hit anywhere on the target was good for the little "combat" gun, my post 70 year old eyes and the worst (lead bullet) load I had at the time.
Actually the gun did good but my eyes missed seven times.
At the time I figured a hit anywhere on the target was good for the little "combat" gun, my post 70 year old eyes and the worst (lead bullet) load I had at the time.
Actually the gun did good but my eyes missed seven times.
The only stinker is getting all that cosmoline off the gun.
I've actually got three of them.
All unissued and in excellent condition.
You will not be disappointed!
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