Thanks for the detailed write up. I was not aware of this product.

I definitely have a few project guns and I'm looking forward to trying this product out

 

Thanks for the detailed write up. I was not aware of this product.

I definitely have a few project guns and I'm looking forward to trying this product out

I did bake my scope in the oven, vs a 14 day plus dry cure indoors. But I hear if you dry it for 14 plus days in a non humid and warm environment, it holds just as well. I dry cured the lens caps, which are Vortex, and have stretchy rubber. The paint has held to that, but I should have done more coats, as it stretches and you can see through the tan a little. But not a big deal.

 

Yeah someone recommended this to me, can't remember if it was here or another forum. But I like that color. I had forgotten about it. Need to repaint my SBR, so maybe I'll order a couple cans.

 

I have used it on a couple of guns. One had worn out nickel plating that looked awful. Looked really good after prepping and spraying with Aluma Hyde Parkerizing spray.

 

I used it to blacken an old S&W 637 frame. It worked OK but as others have noted, there is substantial texture and surface build up.

I ordered extra spray nozzles with the intention of coating other outdoor items, but no amount of shaking would prevent clumps in the sprayed surface. It was an exercise in futility and I ended up stripping it off. I guess I'll use the rest of it on an old charcoal grill.

In my experience, Aluma Hyde is a single use item and not something I'll ever order again.

 

Did you let the paint cure?
How did you strip it off?
We’re you fare enough away?

I did some test sprays. Figured it had to be held 15-15” away, shaken often, cleared up side down, sprayed in light coats and at different angles.

For a revolver, the only thing I would have painted, would be the barrel.

Birchwood Casey Perma Blue kits are good bluing and darkening. I like the paste form over liquid.

 

I've used it many times. Barrels, receivers, handguards, even a bumper. Not Cerakote, but better than anything else I have used.

Exterior, not internals... correct 💯

 

I have never used Aluma-hyde, but I have used Brownells GunKote on both aluminum and steel. The disadvantage to GunKote would be that you have to bake it, so you wouldn't want to use it on something like a scope. The Aluma-hyde sounds handy.

 

Brownells sells a low temp Gunkote, that cures at 180-195 degrees.

My cerakote guy’s (two different shops) bake their scopes at low temp, as it bonds better and they can get it back to customer quicker.

I could not justify the cost to cerakote a few scopes. I plan to have one scope, maybe two cerakoted to match some rifles. But the can paint is so much cheaper to do, if you have a little bit of skill.

Most might be better trying regular rattle can to learn, as it’s easier to fix.

 

You're absolutely right Mark, on clearing the pickup tube after use and for subsequent uses warming it up/shaking/starting with a new nozzle. I read the instructions guys. I evidently got a dud can and based on reviews I read, my experience was not unique.

 

Paint matches the Magpul bipod, but I had the Remington 5R cerakoted Desert Sand, and plan to cerakote a scope to match. Probably paint another Remington barreled action with the Aluma Hyde, and either buy a Magpul stock or drop in a Mcree stock I have.

 

Alumahide's performance is great, it's quite tough. It's almost like having a no-bake Cerakote! But I found that Alumahide takes a very long time to cure completely: about a week. Until then, it's vulnerable. So, it's best to schedule some time for the gun or part that you're painting to hang on its wire.