Did you also change your recoil spring?

 

No, it's still the stock spring. When I first attached the compensator, I put two boxes of Remington 180 grain flat points through the gun and it worked just fine. That's why I'm thinking if I could just get to that factory load with my reloads, I wouldn't need to change springs. Your thoughts on a spring change?

 

If you like Winchester powders, WSF would be more appropriate for generating the minimum recoil impulse that you need. With 231 being a medium-fast burner, it is not one that I would choose to push at all.

By the way, it sounds like you've assembled a pretty nice blaster!

 

If you like Winchester powders, WSF would be more appropriate for generating the minimum recoil impulse that you need. With 231 being a medium-fast burner, it is not one that I would choose to push at all.

By the way, it sounds like you've assembled a pretty nice blaster!

Thanks. I'm not married to W231, but I've been happily using it for a very long time in my 45 acp reloads. Sharing the same powder between calibers would be less fuss, but having a good "recipe" for the 10mm takes precident. Is there a non-Winchester powder that would be better suited for the 10mm?

 

Is there a non-Winchester powder that would be better suited for the 10mm?

800X
PP
#7
#9
Blue Dot
3N37
3N38
N350

List goes on and on.

I've loaded the 10 with 45 different powders, it's about matching the bullet weight with the intention

 

If you like Winchester powders, WSF would be more appropriate for generating the minimum recoil impulse that you need. With 231 being a medium-fast burner, it is not one that I would choose to push at all.

By the way, it sounds like you've assembled a pretty nice blaster!

As Tater said, 180 w/ fast powder & comp ain't gonna work.

Slower powder, #7, Longshot, or #9.

 

Your thoughts on a spring change?

Probably a bad idea and a major reason that someone swapping parts on a new gun might have a failure.
The Win 231 load that you listed sounds like it is maximum. I wouldn't go past that. Have you tried this Win 231 load in your stock barrel? Maybe you've got some problem with your loading process. If the stock barrel has the same problem, then maybe your load has an issue.

 

This afternoon I'll try shooting the W231 rounds with 5.6 and 5.8 gns but without the compensator attached and see how the pistol cycles. The compensator appears to be pretty effective.

 

Try the stock barrel too. There could be a problem with a tight chamber on the LW barrel. If you'll do both tests, you can pinpoint the problem to LW barrel, compensator or ammo.
Without the stock barrel in the mix, we are still doing a guessing game.

 

I'll do that. Thanks.

 

Okay, data update. When I took the compensator off of the Alpha Wolf barrel both the 5.6 and 5.8 grains of Winchester 231 cycled my Glock 40. So, I'm guessing it's not the G40, it's not the Lone Wolf barrel, it's not the Berry's 180 grain flat point bullets, it's not the Starline 10mm brass or the CCI large pistol primers -- it's my powder that's not compatible with the compensator. Send me your Gramma's best family passed down recipe for 10mm range rounds, and I'll get cooking right away.

 

I can't see how you'd go wrong with Accurate No. 9, unless the goal is bunny fart loads. Long Shot, No. 7, and Blue Dot would work fine too.

These will pick up the velocities. The quandary is that the Berry's bullets don't like to be pushed. A jacketed bullet will be more accepting of velocities. Precision Delta has good bullets. I prefer the 200 gr since they are full diameter, and my Glocks like some width (I'm resisting the urge to proclaim, "that's what she said"). The 180s are a little under diameter.

 

@TXscooterguy

Couple thoughts:

LW specifically states that light loads may not run reliably with their comp. 231 is a fast powder that's works fine for plinkin' loads in the 10, plinkin' loads don't need a comp

Plink = no comp
Real 180 loads = screw the comp back on

As suggested, you should probably grab some sample paks of jacketed (or even coated) 180, and save the plated for under 1,200fps.

The following link is my bullet 'library', and might help you decide what to try next. "Brand" is a link to the company's website, and "class" links to specs / bullet photo.

http://10mm-reloaded.com/load_data/supplemental/40_cal_bullet_details.html

 

@TXscooterguy

Couple thoughts:

LW specifically states that light loads may not run reliably with their comp. 231 is a fast powder that's works fine for plinkin' loads in the 10, plinkin' loads don't need a comp

Plink = no comp
Real 180 loads = screw the comp back on

As suggested, you should probably grab some sample paks of jacketed (or even coated) 180, and save the plated for under 1,200fps.

The following link is my bullet 'library', and might help you decide what to try next. "Brand" is a link to the company's website, and "class" links to specs / bullet photo.

http://10mm-reloaded.com/load_data/supplemental/40_cal_bullet_details.html

Thank you. In my 1911, I shoot cast 200 grain SWC. Because I was warned that I shouldn't shoot lead in a Glock barrel, I got the Berry's on a recommendation of a friend. I wasn't aware of the difference between plated and jacketed. Now, because I still have a bucket full of plated bullets, I'm looking for a recipe that will allow me to use them and my new compensator. I'm thinking about picking up a pound of Accurate No. 9. Any suggestion on how much of it should be behind those 180 grain plated bullets? Thanks.

 

Now, because I still have a bucket full of plated bullets, I'm looking for a recipe that will allow me to use them and my new compensator.

Most of my Glocks (including my Glock 20 and Glock 29) have been given a steady diet of nothing but plated bullets. They work fine. In the limited selection of powders that I have tried with 180 grain plated Ranier rounds, I found medium warm 800X loads to be very accurate. I think it's also one of the rounds that can be used to push fast 10mm rounds. Although I never felt the need, Hogdon lists a maximum 10mm 189 grain 800X load at 1210 fps which is about as fast as the plated bullet manufacturers recommend.
http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/data/pistol

 

Check Accurate's site for load info - #9 is a great, if a bit uneconomical, choice. I'd imagine 180 @ 1,200fps and you won't have any cycling issues with the comp installed.

 

... if a bit uneconomical ...

I've been calling around the local shops here and I have not as of yet, found Accurate No. 9 in dealer stocks. Online, the HAZ MAT fees are almost as much as the powder. Benchrst, what would be an economical second choice? Thanks

 

@TXscooterguy

Couple thoughts:

LW specifically states that light loads may not run reliably with their comp. 231 is a fast powder that's works fine for plinkin' loads in the 10, plinkin' loads don't need a comp

Plink = no comp
Real 180 loads = screw the comp back on

As suggested, you should probably grab some sample paks of jacketed (or even coated) 180, and save the plated for under 1,200fps.

The following link is my bullet 'library', and might help you decide what to try next. "Brand" is a link to the company's website, and "class" links to specs / bullet photo.

http://10mm-reloaded.com/load_data/supplemental/40_cal_bullet_details.html

"231 is a fast powder that's works fine for plinkin' loads in the 10, plinkin' loads don't need a comp,

Plink = no comp
Real 180 loads = screw the comp back on"

XLNT advice. And another thing to consider is that even though the 10mm is considered the "magnum" of autopistol cartridges, in the large polymer framed Glock. there really isn't much recoil to speak of compared to a 44 magnum revolver or a real magnum autopistol cartridge like a 40 Super or a 460 Rowland. I don't really see the need for a compensator on a Glock 20 unless you can afford to shoot 500 rounds of full power loads at each range session.

As far as powders for the 10mm, The larger the case capacity, the slower the powder needs to be except for light plinking loads. the 9mm has a case capacity of 13.3 grains H2O and uses powder in the fast to medium burn rates powders. The 10mm has a case capacity of 24.1 gr H2O and works best with powders in the medium to slow burning range.

Here are commonly available powders beginning with the medium burn rate powders to the slowest powders. In the 10mm powders ranging from the burn rate of 800X to AA9 are best for full power loads while the faster powders are better for reduced loads.

Unique (Alliant)
No. 5 (Accurate)
Universal Clays (Hodgdon)
Power Pistol (Alliant)
HS-6 (Hodgdon)
Autocomp (Winchster
CFE Pistol (Hodgdon)
N340 (Vihtavuori)
Herco (Alliant)
WSF (Winchester)
3N37 (Vihtavuori)
800X (IMR)
No. 7 (Accurate)
Longshot (Hodgdon)
3N38 (Vihtavuori)
HS-7 (Hodgdon)
Blue Dot (Alliant)
No. 9 (Accurate)

I would also recommend that you get a copy of the Loadbooks USA 40 S&W and 10mm Auto Reloading Manualreloading manual. It has load data from every publishes source all in on book for one caliber only or in this case two.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/101285691/loadbooks-usa-40-s-and-w-and-10mm-auto-reloading-manual

It gives you lot's of data to compare to.

 

One other thing is that Berry's recommends keeping velocities below 1200 fps and with a 180 grain bullet you should try o stay below 1100 fps juat to be safe. If you get the Loadbooks USA manual it will give projected approximate velocities for each load and it will give many different lods to shoose from.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/101285691/loadbooks-usa-40-s-and-w-and-10mm-auto-reloading-manual

 

Thanks again guys. I now have 100 rounds assembled. I started with 10 grains of Blue Dot behind the Berry's 180 flat points. CCI primers and just enough crimp to get a ker-plop as the round drops into the chamber. COL is at spec. The firing pin will meet the primer anvils tomorrow. If all goes well, I'll use them in the GSSF indoor match this Sunday. If anyone in the DFW area sets up a chronograph and wants some company, please let me know.

 

Thanks for the update. :supergrin: Sometimes the OPs never come back and let us know how things turned out.
Glad to hear that you're getting a handle on it.
http://www.alliantpowder.com/reloaders/powderlist.aspx?type=1&powderid=10&cartridge=30

 

Well I'm back from the range. The 10 grains of Blue Dot behind those berry's 140 grain flat points worked very weii. With the compensator on, the G40 cycled very well and threw brass with authority. The day wasn't perfect though. I had several CCI primers that had decent indentations on them that didn't go bang. When I sent them through a second time they did go bang. When MidwayUSA had a sale with free shipping and no Haz Mat fees, I bought a bunch. I'm going back to Federal and Winchester primers. Another issue, several of my reloads failed to go to battery. I'd say about a half dozen. When I sent them through a second time they functioned. Do you think dropping back a little on COL might help? Thanks again.

 

Don't give up on CCI just yet, I'm betting they were't fully seated.

Regarding the failure to go into battery, you could have an OAL that's causing a feeding issue, but more likely it's a case (as in assembly procedure) problem.

Next load session plunk every round and report back.

 

Regarding the failure to go into battery, you could have an OAL that's causing a feeding issue, but more likely it's a case (as in assembly procedure) problem.

Benchrst, I think you're right. I assembled 100 rounds. I shot 50 and brought home 50. I did the "plop" test on the remaining 50. Most plopped in and when I turned the barrel over, fell out by themselves. Others plopped in, but had to pulled out by hand. A few didn't plop in. I'm using a 20+ year old Dillion Square Deal B with a brand new set of 10mm dies and a new toolhead. The adjustment of the fourth die, the crimp die, never changed during the reloading session. I'm surprised to have this much variation with this Dillion press. I'm going to check and make sure the toolhead didn't loosen up. Oh, and with this press, primers are set with the up stroke of the handle. I think they were all set properly. I'm going to disassemble and clean the firing pin in the Glock. And like Columbo, "Just one more thing..." the set screw on the compensator loosened up after a few shots. The guys at Lone Wolf told me to spend it in and they'll bore it out and install a larger set screw. It went into the mail this afternoon.

 

I'd measure your crimp

 

Geez, I took out the firing pin and there is a flaw on it! When I run my fingernail across the flaw I can feel the roughness. I'm calling Glock tomorrow. Okay, bad firing pin, bad crimp, bad set screw. I'm going bed before something else happens.

 

Another update. By golly, the toolhead was loose on my Dillion Square Deal! I tightened it and increased the crimp by half a flat. Ran the 50 through the crimp again. Now each round "plops" in and "falls" out. I guess I need to check that toolhead before each session.

I took out my jeweler's files and removed the burr on the firing pin. I then polished all sides with 2000 grit sandpaper. I think that will work but if not, I'll replace it. As soon as I get the compensator back with the larger set screw, I'm off to the range again. Thanks guys.

 

I originally set my case mouth dimension to the value in my Hornady manual. I had some light primer strikes and got to talking to another 10mm reloading guy at the range. He suggested that since the round seats on the case mouth that this is where my issue actually was. The light primer strike compressed the case mouth a fraction of a thousandth and then I was good to go on the second primer strike. I took my dial calipers and measured some American Eagle 10mm which had been flawless, and sure enough, that ammo was a hair of a gnats ass under what the Hornady manual had specified (a fraction of a thousandth). I set mine up to match that and the light primer strikes went away. Then I had to run a thousand some odd rounds through my crimping die again. :faint:

 

CCI PRIMER PROBLEMS

Make sure they are seated FIRMLY. I use a RCBS hand priming tool w/a longer seating rod in it & really bare down to seat them. I use a 4lb firing pin spring in a G29. They always go bang. The seating rod used is a broken lee depriming rod cut to a longer length than the RCBS rod.

Good luck & enjoy the 10mm.