Either one, the paper will never know what hit it.
Getting 20” barrel is even more fun.

 

1:8 twist is better for your typical range ammo.

 

1:8 twist is better for your typical range ammo.

I was thinking about that too -

I have a 1:9, 16 inch carbine length and a 1:7, 18 inch rifle length


My math --

1:7 with a 16 inch barrel means the bullet goes around 2.29 times before it exits the barrel

1:8 means it only spins 2 times

Can less than 1/3 of an additional rotation really make THAT much difference?

 

I was thinking about that too -

I have a 1:9, 16 inch carbine length and a 1:7, 18 inch rifle length


My math --

1:7 with a 16 inch barrel means the bullet goes around 2.29 times before it exits the barrel

1:8 means it only spins 2 times

Can less than 1/3 of an additional rotation really make THAT much difference?

Yes.

 

I was thinking about that too -

I have a 1:9, 16 inch carbine length and a 1:7, 18 inch rifle length


My math --

1:7 with a 16 inch barrel means the bullet goes around 2.29 times before it exits the barrel

1:8 means it only spins 2 times

Can less than 1/3 of an additional rotation really make THAT much difference?

Not hugely with 55 or 62 grain unless you're shooting well past your stated 200 yd range.
Either twist will stabilize the bullet more than enough.
But very generally, 1:8 may show slightly more accuracy than 1:7 with 55 grain cheapo blaster ammo.

 

I've owned both of those uppers. Both shot well. From what I understand stainless does not hold up as well in sustained rapid fire as 4150v does.

I like the 18 inch barrel too. I bulit a PSA kit rifle with nitride govt profile 1:8 barrel, Wylde chamber, RRA 2-stage trigger, 3-9x Burris. It is a shooter.

I own a similar configuration in stainless. It also shoots well.


SC

 

Cant speak on their stainless barrels but the nitride barrels I have used from them have been pretty good for the price. Accurate enough with cheap ammo and no issues I can really speak of. Honestly for that price either one is an absolute steal for a range toy seeing as it comes with BCG and sights.

 

Stainless is "supposed to" be a tiny bit more accurate than Chrome Moly. But CM will hold up to mag dumps / high rates of fire for longer. your average recreational shooter it will not matter

 

For most widely available AR-15 barrels, this chart is a handy guide to how to best choose your round. (Photo courtesy/1911Forum)

 

View attachment 724328

For most widely available AR-15 barrels, this chart is a handy guide to how to best choose your round. (Photo courtesy/1911Forum)

That's an okay guide or rule-of-thumb but nothing in life is that simple. Too many variables. As an example, I have Black Hills 50 grain (Barnes bullet which is all copper and long for weight) that is a tack driver in my 1:7s.

 

The 1:8 is "trying" to get closer to a match grade barrel, but the 5.56 chamber PSA uses kind of kicks that to the curb. The Nitrided barrel will last a lot longer and since no PSA barrel is a match barrel, you won't see any benefit of going with the 1:8 Stainless. If you want a match grade barrel, look other places than PSA. They make par-level, reliable AR15s with lots of Chineses parts.

The only way you would have any issues with a 1:7 is if you are shooting 50 grain or lighter varmint bullets. The only way you would have any issues with a 1:8 is if you are shooting 80 grain or heavier match bullets past 600 yards.

 

The 1:8 is "trying" to get closer to a match grade barrel, but the 5.56 chamber PSA uses kind of kicks that to the curb. The Nitrided barrel will last a lot longer and since no PSA barrel is a match barrel, you won't see any benefit of going with the 1:8 Stainless. If you want a match grade barrel, look other places than PSA. They make par-level, reliable AR15s with lots of Chineses parts.

The only way you would have any issues with a 1:7 is if you are shooting 50 grain or lighter varmint bullets. The only way you would have any issues with a 1:8 is if you are shooting 80 grain or heavier match bullets past 600 yards.

I'm not saying you are wrong but what parts used by PSA come from China? I thought they made most of their parts themselves.

 

I have seen info both ways on their steel parts. Their premium line barrels and bolts were from FN for a while, not sure now. But the majority of their aluminum parts are cast in China and finished in the US. That is a major cost savings since it avoids import tariffs on finished goods but still cheaper than US by a good margin.

I have talked to them at SHOT, in person, and they confirmed that a "good portion" of their parts are sourced from China. They would not give me a number, or what parts specifically.

 

Interesting, what about this?

https://www.cnn.com/2019/08/24/us/chinese-gun-parts-seized/index.html

 

Exactly, can't import gun parts from China. That is why they import castings and unfinished parts that are completed in the US. That is legal because they are not yet "gun parts".

 

PSA uppers and lowers are not Chinese, nor are barrels or BCGs. Maybe some other less critical parts, who knows.