If you really want to smooth out the pull, work on the firing pin channel liner and spring cups. The cups have friction as the pieces of cheap plastic slide through the liner during the triggering process.

The trigger bars birds head getting past the firing pin safety is the next area to work on.

Then address the connector/trigger bar and firing pin lug/cruciform matings.

Don’t forget to check out how the cruciform rides along and off the ‘shelf’. Some trigger bars have horrible edges due to stamping the parts out of a sheet of metal.

Don’t be afraid to experiment. Cheapest trigger parts on the market if you screw them up.

Finally, research and perform all safety checks before live ammo is used. Especially the engagement of the firing pin lug and cruciform.
This is the likely double tap cause.
If it doesn’t have 1/3 engagement, bend it or try another trigger bar. There are plenty of variances in the factory parts.

 

You can get the same benefit of a 25 cent trigger job by dry firing A LOT. The best Glock trigger I ever experienced was a very experienced Gen 2 Glock that used to make the rounds and was traded among friends. I owned it at least three times,

 

I'm probably one of the few that use a dremel. I've been polishing innards for decades with them. I also have probably thousands of hours shaping, modding, polishing hand made motorcycle parts in steel, stainless steel, aluminum, brass....
It's not rocket surgery, but it is easy to F something up if you're even a tiny bit ham fisted.
Every new Glock I buy gets a strip down, inspection, touch-up. The .25 p job takes the least amout of time and gives me a chance to get a good look at it's innerds.

 

I do the $250 trigger jobs.

All mine break glass at #3.5 to 4.0

Why wait 2000 rounds when I can get it today?

 

"QUOTE"
You can get the same benefit of a 25 cent trigger job by dry firing A LOT.

OR you can learn how to do a trigger job & save $$ on ammo--I had a 3.1lb trigger on a G29 before it fired a shot

 

I have polished the internals with Flitz using a patch only. Polished up nice and shiny. One thing to avoid is getting cleaner/lube into the firing pin channel, etc. Tends to bind up those components.

 

A friend brought me a like new Gen 5 G45 this week that Bubba had worked on. The 10 trigger pull average was 7# 15 oz. When he picked it up later it had a 10 trigger pull average of 2# 10 oz. similar to a G17 I had done for him last year. This is going to be a Range Only Glock for a very experienced shooter.

 

Polishing all the internals with Flitz, for decades, has not once hurt any of my Glocks, or any other gun I do it too... If they can't handle some polishing, They can't handle anything else.






CanyonMan
:horse:

 

Not at all. If what you have been told were true, any Glock that has fired a few thousand rounds would loose the hard surface and the contact points would wear rapidly, resulting in heavier trigger pull... Obviously, there are no such issues reported.

 

I use blue rouge bar ( basically no abrasive in it) with a 6” cotton buffing wheel on a bench polisher and have had no issues. I do a lot of plastic and metal polishing. I can tell you a rubbing or polishing compound takes off more then the buffing wheel and bar. Polishing plastic u see what has more effect comparing compounds, polished and methods.
Machine polishing can create a much smoother surface than hand polishing.

 

I deburr the bearing surfaces with wet dry paper, usually sticking to 1500 and 2000 grits with the occasionally need 1000. Have not seen any wearing through of any kind of plating. These grits when used with a thin oil (I use plain 'ol '3 in 1') do not remove anything other than the burrs and the extreme edges from manufacturing. Polishing burrs with a Dremel can make it better, but will never completely deburr without removing tool metal.

 

I use a Dremel and have never had a problem. I have Glock with many thousands through them, still no problems.