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As others have said the inside of those bags is designed to prevent metal from rusting. Do not store your Glock mags, or any other polymer in them. They aren't designed for that. As cciman, that coating has transferred onto the Glock mags.

I don't believe any chemical reaction has occurred, but some of the preventative may have soaked into the magazines polymer, their polymer is porous, one of the reason it will take dye so easily. If it doesn't come off with Goo Gone or some other adhesive remover, I would trash them and get some replacements. If they remain sticky, that could attract dirt and other debris which would make them even more prone to sticking in the pistol. It's a fairly inexpensive lesson learned.

Best way to store your Glock and magazines is in their case or in some other case designed for firearms storage. There isn't anything else you need to do with them. Glocks, unlike traditional steel firearms, do not need any type of special process for long term storage. Store them away from humidity and they will last a virtually forever.




TXPO
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Hi, Y'all! I haven't had time to get back to those mags for a bit and when I did yesterday, I found that they are almost back to normal. Very little stickiness to them at all. I'm going to give them another couple of weeks and then will wipe them down with a silicone cloth. I definitely learned my lesson and will now store only metal mags in that pouch. Many thanks for all the helpful suggestions from you guys.
Stay safe out there, everyone!!

don
 
There are some really good suggestions in this thread. Neither do I have anything against the use of soap 'n water—Just as long as you remember NOT to use hot water. Hot water and Glock's D6 polymer do NOT get along well together.

I'm, also, going to remember that baking soda trick; it sounds pretty neat!

Years ago I used to buy military rifles, take them apart and rebuild them for resale. Cosmoline removal was always a problem; and, for the life of me, I can't imagine anything stickier or more viscuous than cosmoline.

After removing all the metal parts from the wooden ones, I used just plain, good old fashioned, 'white' kerosene in order to clean the metal. (It was a messy job; and I had to use a lot of old rags and paper towels.)

Soap and water would work too; but that really made for a real mess, and took a lot of extra effort.

There are a number of commercial products to make this job a little bit easier. Many automotive stores carry 'A&L Cosmoline Remover', which is also safe to use on painted surfaces.

Two other commercial products that will remove both Cosmoline, as well as all different sorts of other adhesives and sticky goo-goo are 'SL245' and (Ready?) WD-40.

Finally, it's always a good idea to make sure you've got plenty of old rags, along with a large roll of paper towels before you begin a job like this. Give some thought to how you're gonna get rid of all of the [often flammable] clean-up garbage, too.
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
There are some really good suggestions in this thread. Neither do I have anything against the use of soap 'n water—Just as long as you remember NOT to use hot water. Hot water and Glock's D6 polymer do NOT get along well together.

I'm, also, going to remember that baking soda trick; it sounds pretty neat!

Years ago I used to buy military rifles, take them apart and rebuild them for resale. Cosmoline removal was always a problem; and, for the life of me, I can't imagine anything stickier or more viscuous than cosmoline.

After removing all the metal parts from the wooden ones, I used just plain, good old fashioned, 'white' kerosene in order to clean the metal. (It was a messy job; and I had to use a lot of old rags and paper towels.)

Soap and water would work too; but that really made for a real mess, and took a lot of extra effort.

There are a number of commercial products to make this job a little bit easier. Many automotive stores carry 'A&L Cosmoline Remover', which is also safe to use on painted surfaces.

Two other commercial products that will remove both Cosmoline, as well as all different sorts of other adhesives and sticky goo-goo are 'SL245' and (Ready?) WD-40.

Finally, it's always a good idea to make sure you've got plenty of old rags, along with a large roll of paper towels before you begin a job like this. Give some thought to how you're gonna get rid of all of the [often flammable] clean-up garbage, too.
Very good info, G21!

I especially liked your bottom quotes and comment. All too many folks think they are their own creator, forgetting that they had absolutely nothing to do with creating themselves. Here's one I'm sure you like:

"...for by him were all things created, that are in heaven, and that are in earth, visible and invisible, whether they be thrones, or dominions, or principalities, or powers: all things were created by him, and for him: and he is before all things, and by him all things consist." (Col. 1:16, 17)

Have a great Sabbath!!

don
 
Thank you, Don! (and God bless!) :)
 
There are some really good suggestions in this thread. Neither do I have anything against the use of soap 'n water—Just as long as you remember NOT to use hot water. Hot water and Glock's D6 polymer do NOT get along well together.

I'm, also, going to remember that baking soda trick; it sounds pretty neat!

Years ago I used to buy military rifles, take them apart and rebuild them for resale. Cosmoline removal was always a problem; and, for the life of me, I can't imagine anything stickier or more viscuous than cosmoline.

After removing all the metal parts from the wooden ones, I used just plain, good old fashioned, 'white' kerosene in order to clean the metal. (It was a messy job; and I had to use a lot of old rags and paper towels.)

Soap and water would work too; but that really made for a real mess, and took a lot of extra effort.

There are a number of commercial products to make this job a little bit easier. Many automotive stores carry 'A&L Cosmoline Remover', which is also safe to use on painted surfaces.

Two other commercial products that will remove both Cosmoline, as well as all different sorts of other adhesives and sticky goo-goo are 'SL245' and (Ready?) WD-40.

Finally, it's always a good idea to make sure you've got plenty of old rags, along with a large roll of paper towels before you begin a job like this. Give some thought to how you're gonna get rid of all of the [often flammable] clean-up garbage, too.
For removing cosmoline on parts, I did the simple method of buying a cheap used metal pot to heat up and boil water and then drop it in. The cosmoline just literally falls right off. Wipe off, lube if you like and you are good to go.
 
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