G26.5 failures to go into battery

texas 48 · Apr 29, 2019

I have owned 15 glocks over the last 15 years. Have 10 tens of thousands-of rounds shot through them. Today I had 3 failures to go into battery and 2 stove pipes for the 1 st time with a Glock. I have about 500 rounds through my 26.5. I was shooting my own loads so it may be my Ammo that caused the failures. I have fired over 4000 of my loads through my sig p365 with no failures of any kind. I clean my weapons every time I shoot at the range. I know that I was not limp wristing and loads are not light plinkers. 147 gr RMR RNFP with 4.6gr of be-86 and i am particular when loading my own and each round is checked with a Dillion case guage. After returning from the range cleaned and inspected the weapon no issues found , no obvious or unusual wear patterns on slide, barrel, bolt face or extractor. Will recheck my loads by performing a plink test in the barrel to determine if rounds are in spec. Until I go back to the range the 26.5 is out as my carry weapon and go back to my 27.4! Or my sig p365 For carry . I fired 2 mags of my Carry 147gr HST’s and all fired with no issues.
I want to believe it was an Ammo issue and not the gun or perhaps my support thumb was slowing the slide or the mags. Just surprised after all my Glock’s have been so reliable over the years to have so many failures in one range session.

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Johnssd2 · Apr 29, 2019

I hope it’s your ammo, too. I do not trust my 26.5 yet. It’s brand new and I posted on it recently. Multiple failure to go into battery and lock back on last round. This happened with federal eagle 115. But get this, next range visit all 50 federal ran great but a box of blazer 115 had issues. Not as many but still . Standard pressure gold dot 115 ran great. Hoping mine is just needing to get broke in with heavier bullets. Hope yours gets sorted out soon. I’ll be shooting on Tuesday. I posted here that it’s funny that if all the guns I’ve owned (hi point included) only Glock has given me trouble out of the box. Luck to ya.

Toocool45 · Apr 29, 2019

Sorry you are one of those. With problems out of your G26.5. People are reporting issues with them. Quite a few too. I shot my 26.5 today for the first time. First group at 25 yards was really good. Cant wait to shoot it again. Mine worked, its a USA version with the glock night sights. Got it used, its like new.
Try some factory loads that are on the hotter side out of it. If that doesnt work send it to warranty.
Mine shoots like a full sized gun.

texas 48 · Apr 29, 2019

Toocool45 said:
Sorry you are one of those. With problems out of your G26.5. People are reporting issues with them. Quite a few too. I shot my 26.5 today for the first time. First group at 25 yards was really good. Cant wait to shoot it again. Mine worked, its a USA version with the glock night sights. Got it used, its like new.
Try some factory loads that are on the hotter side out of it. If that doesnt work send it to warranty.
Mine shoots like a full sized gun.

Mine is a USA also. My HST’s there were no problems encountered. I really think it was my Ammo issue. The slide was hard to rack like the round was improperly sized. Next Sunday I’ll make sure every round passes plunk test. Had no issues with the same Ammo fired 80 rounds from my p365 however.

BASE 772 · Apr 29, 2019

My G26 G5 has been flawless for over 2000 rounds. Any ammo I put through it. I’ve had it over a year.

texas 48 · Apr 29, 2019

BASE 772 said:
My G26 G5 has been flawless for over 2000 rounds. Any ammo I put through it. I’ve had it over a year.

That is what I expect from a Glock. I am glad you haven’t had an issues. That’s why I am surprised by my experience today. Again the jury is not in regarding the weapon. I will follow up after my next range session. I really want to carry this weapon. Until I can confirm it an ammunition that caused the failures I won’t carry it.

Pistolay · Apr 29, 2019

My 26.5 is 10 months old and has 1200 rounds through it with zero failures.

9x45 · Apr 29, 2019

Tex, and you plunk tested your reloads in the G26?

texas 48 · Apr 29, 2019

9x45 said:
Tex, and you plunk tested your reloads in the G26?

No. This batch I didn’t. Not blaming the gun yet. I’ll be making up 200 this week and all will be plunk tested. Prior to firing. It is curious that when I put them back in the mag all 3 chambered and fired. I will also buy a box of 50 factory and run 50 of sig v crown I have coming this week.

Ronaldo · Apr 29, 2019

If these rounds fired on second try, check your primer seating. If the primer isn't seated all the way in the pocket, misfires can happen.

First strike seats the primer, second strike fires it...

Had a bit of this a while back, now I use an RCBS hand priming tool, which lets me feel when the primer is fully seated.

Ronaldo, seated... or is it sitting?

LostinTexas · Apr 29, 2019

I learned a long time ago, that one must be very meticulous when loading ammo for a Glock. I had a batch that choked a Glock, but shot fine in S&W, Ruger, and a wheel gun I had at the time. Turned out my sizing die was about 1/8 turn out. It made a difference and I thought a Glock would eat anything at the time.
I find a 26 very hard to shoot. The grip just doesn't suit me.
Good luck

9x45 · Apr 29, 2019

texas 48 said:
curious that when I put them back in the mag all 3 chambered and fired.

That's only caused by high primers. What press are you loading on? No need to burn more factory ammo.

By the way, hand priming is the most sensitive to high seating. That pretty much never happens on a progressive because of the length of the crank arm.

poodleplumber · Apr 29, 2019

I agree that high primers are a strong possibility for the three rounds that didn't chamber and then fired OK on the second try. That shouldn't cause stovepipes, though, should it?

And smart of you, OP, to go back to a proven pistol for carry while you sort this out.

texas 48 · Apr 29, 2019

9x45 said:
That's only caused by high primers. What press are you loading on? No need to burn more factory ammo.

By the way, hand priming is the most sensitive to high seating. That pretty much never happens on a progressive because of the length of the crank arm.

Loading on a dillon 550B. Doubt it was high primers however, I checked primers to insure the that primers were in and seated, just didn't run this batch to check for over sized cases.I inspected the rounds after I got them out and noticed that the striker hit the primer at the seam of primer and case a low strike typical for an out of battery situation. I know that the striker channel was clean and free of oil or other gunk because I cleaned after my last range outing.
When attempting to extract the rounds the slide was very difficult to pull to the rear to extract and to do the strong hand slam while holding the slide, It seemed like the round was stuck in the chamber which would indicate that they were not properly sized or over length. Just a hunch. I will plink test the next batch. Bullets from the same batch fired flawlessly and were very accurate through my p 365 however.

fastbolt · Apr 29, 2019

I used to be an avid handloader, but I never function tested a pistol with handloads until I knew I had a particular load down pat in all aspects.

Shorter and lighter mass slides can be a bit fussier in shooter and ammo influences. Don't discount the possibility of a new, stiff and heavy RSA ... or even a brand new RSA with an unknown and unrecognized tolerance spec issue. I've certainly had my fair share of experience where someone from Glock suggested I replace a RSA (even a new one) and see if that made a difference in some puzzling feeding and functioning issues.

RSA's are assemblies of parts, and sometimes an unrecognized spec, manufacturing or materials issue can slip out the front door.

I've known of instances where older RSA's caused trouble, but also where new ones did, too, including one brand new RSA in a NIB G27 that had the RSA come apart during the first magazine load, resulting in the front end of the coil getting bound up in the guide ring's hole and causing the gun to stop functioning.

Just remember the 3 most common cause of problems in pistol functioning, in order of how often it's usually found to be a problem ... shooter, ammo & gun. If you're able to reasonably eliminate the "shooter" influence, next up under the microscope would be your handloads.

On the other hand, it's a simple matter to try the RSA from your G27 in your G26, and see if the same ammo causes the same problems.

If not, then maybe a new RSA is in order.

Often easier to look for the simplest, most likely answer, and especially when it's the easiest and least expensive to test.

Besides, if you don't thumb/ride the slide with your G27, what makes you think you're doing it with your easier recoiling G26?

Just some thoughts.

texas 48 · Apr 29, 2019

fastbolt said:
I used to be an avid handloader, but I never function tested a pistol with handloads until I knew I had a particular load down pat in all aspects.

Shorter and lighter mass slides can be a bit fussier in shooter and ammo influences. Don't discount the possibility of a new, stiff and heavy RSA ... or even a brand new RSA with an unknown and unrecognized tolerance spec issue. I've certainly had my fair share of experience where someone from Glock suggested I replace a RSA (even a new one) and see if that made a difference in some puzzling feeding and functioning issues.

RSA's are assemblies of parts, and sometimes an unrecognized spec, manufacturing or materials issue can slip out the front door.

I've known of instances where older RSA's caused trouble, but also where new ones did, too, including one brand new RSA in a NIB G27 that had the RSA come apart during the first magazine load, resulting in the front end of the coil getting bound up in the guide ring's hole and causing the gun to stop functioning.

Just remember the 3 most common cause of problems in pistol functioning, in order of how often it's usually found to be a problem ... shooter, ammo & gun. If you're able to reasonably eliminate the "shooter" influence, next up under the microscope would be your handloads.

On the other hand, it's a simple matter to try the RSA from your G27 in your G26, and see if the same ammo causes the same problems. If not, then maybe a new RSA is in order.

Often easier to look for the simplest, most likely answer, and especially when it's the easiest and least expensive to test.

Besides, if you don't thumb/ride the slide with your G27, what makes you think you're doing it with your easier recoiling G26?

Just some thoughts.

Fastbolt, that was a great reminder I have spare one in my parts box I will follow your suggestion. You know I have been carrying .40 Calibers both 10mm and .40 S&W for years but I am getting arthritis in my 70+ year old shooting hand and wanted to keep shooting weekly so I was moving toward the 9mm. Bought a P365 but that micro has a snappy recoil similar to a .40 so went back to a Glock 26.5. It is a soft shooter when it is working. and carries just like my 27.4.

Thanks

fastbolt · Apr 29, 2019

texas 48 said:
Fastbolt, that was a great reminder I have spare one in my parts box I will follow your suggestion. You know I have been carrying .40 Calibers both 10mm and .40 S&W for years but I am getting arthritis in my 70+ year old shooting hand and wanted to keep shooting weekly so I was moving toward the 9mm. Bought a P365 but that micro has a snappy recoil similar to a .40 so went back to a Glock 26.5. It is a soft shooter when it is working. and carries just like my 27.4.

Thanks

I merely suggested trying the RSA from your G27 because you already know it's demonstrated the ability to function as intended, and it's already "broken in", so to speak. (So it ought to run with your 9mm handloads, whereas a brand new tight RSA might still slow the slide velocity a bit?)

This is what was once suggested to me by a Glock tech when we were discussing trouble-shooting an issue with a subcompact Glock. He asked if I had another of the same model available to me, with a RSA that was already known to be properly functioning, and asked if I'd tried that other RSA in the gun I was trying to trouble-shoot.

texas 48 · Apr 30, 2019

Notice the difference of the barrel and RSA . G26.5 on the left and the G27.4 on the right. Recoil spring on the 26.5 is a 062 and recoil spring on the 27.4 is a 061. Notice how far the recoil spring and barrel on the 27.4 compared to the 26.5 from the frames differ. Inserted the 061 spring in the 26.5 and gun will not go into battery with the different spring. Curious.

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fastbolt · Apr 30, 2019

They have the same base design? Solid? Pinned/riveted?

Same thickness of the front plastic plug/cap?

They've been revised a few times over the years.

I use whatever "vintage" I happen to have on hand, unless it exhibits a problem in a particular gun. If I recall right, the last time I picked up a couple from the rep, the ones he in his parts kit may have been from a couple of revisions ago. Worked just fine in a couple G26's.

This is an example of how even in modern "parts is parts" guns, sometimes a particular gun may require the use of a different part or assembly. Sometimes. BTDT.

quantico · Apr 30, 2019

I have loaded 45acp and 357 sig and 10mm. I have accuracy tested loads vs amount of powder, no loads at max level. I use a hornady progressive loader and frankly I have never had a single round that had any issue. Maybe I am just an engineer that checks everything over and over again, maybe because I learned from a guy that is a perfectionist himself. Maybe I am just lucky.

G26.5 failures to go into battery

texas 48

Johnssd2

Toocool45

texas 48

BASE 772

texas 48

Pistolay

9x45

texas 48

Ronaldo

LostinTexas

9x45

poodleplumber

texas 48

fastbolt

texas 48

fastbolt

texas 48

fastbolt

quantico

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