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WTK: Glock tool?

Discussion in 'General Glocking' started by LarryMZ3, Mar 5, 2003.

  1. LarryMZ3

    LarryMZ3

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    Hi,

    I am going to do the '5 minute trigger job' tonight on my G23. Actually, instead of it being 5 minutes, I am going to polish everything internally (metal!) to a high shine, so, I'm sure it will take more than 5 minutes.

    Anyways, my question: I don't have the Glock take down tool. Does anyone know what the size/diameter of it is? I figured I can run down to Sears and pick up a T handle hex rod and use that? If not, what do you recommend?

    Please email me directly as I probably won't get back to check Glocktalk before this evening.

    Thanks!
    Larry
    larrymz3@hotmail.com
     
  2. Don At PC

    Don At PC Senior Member Millennium Member

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    Larry;

    The size is 3/32". Good luck, that polishing make a giant difference.
     

  3. Custom Glock Racing

    Custom Glock Racing I did it first. Millennium Member

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    a 3/32 punch is the same as the official tool except for the handle
     
  4. LarryMZ3

    LarryMZ3

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    Thanks, I had our maintenance shop build me a 3/32" tool using a stainless welding rod, so I am ready to go. :)

    My question is: is it smart to polish everything I can? Both of the websites I have seen have described the polishing of only metal on metal contact surfaces.

    Would it do any harm by polishing everything? Any rust issues, or are the parts in the frame / slide stainless steel (coated with something)?

    I've already added the 3.5 disconnector, and it feels much better, so, now I want to make my tack driver even smoother and better feeling.

    Anyone have any pics of their polished internals?

    Thanks,
    Larry
    larrymz3@hotmail.com
     
  5. Quack

    Quack Rent this space

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    i polished all metal parts, including the striker and safety plunger. the feed ramp could also be polished. take it easy, if you see any copper coloring starting to show, ;m , that is a sign that you are going through the plating.
     
  6. Sniper 7.62

    Sniper 7.62

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    Be carefull that you don't polish TO MUCH!! ;g Take your time and you will like what you feel. ;a
     
  7. gunpilot

    gunpilot

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  8. Glockster_James

    Glockster_James Man W/ A Badge

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    Other than polishing the parts involved with the firing mechanism, polishing the rest really won't improve much. Thats why for the most part all I polish is the trigger bar, connector, striker, safety, and the feed ramp. If you polish the rails and inside the slide, not really going to gain much if anything. Although, I've noticed if I lightly polish the outside of a new barrel, not to the point where the finish comes off, but just to the point where its smoother, and inside the slide where the barrel will contact, just lightly polish there some too. Then just lightly rub a drop of oil on the barrel and wipe off the excess. I've noticed that by doing that there is no more finish wear on the barrel. Also, right now I'm polishing the finish off of a G19 barrel. Once I get done with that then going to buff it for a while until it really shines. :) So mainly as said before, those are about the only spots I'd really polish. And like others said, don't go past the plating. But definately on contact points, go for the highest mirror polish shine you can get. Goodluck. ;I
     
  9. IPSC G34

    IPSC G34 Sparky

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    Traces of copper mean keep going! The only way to truely smooth surface is to polish(or grind) all of the burrs and imperfections off of the surface right? So how do we get a truely smooth surface without removing something?
     
  10. Glockster_James

    Glockster_James Man W/ A Badge

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    Though I do not disagree nor intend to flame, isn't the smoothing of a surface the same as the smoothing of another surface? What I mean is if you smooth the plating, shouldn't that in theory produce the same effect as if you went through the plating and smoothed up the metal? And wouldn't it actually weaken the strength of the trigger bar or which ever part we choose to look at, by penetrating the plating through the copper part to the bare metal? I have not gone that deep on any of the parts yet just cause to me, I really haven't seen how it would improve things but as before I'm still willing to hear everyone out. :) Thanks in advance. ;I
     
  11. LarryMZ3

    LarryMZ3

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    WOW!

    I spent close to 2 hrs buffing and shining up everything. Used a Dremel and Flitz.

    While I had everything apart (that was SO easy), I put a 3.5lb disconnector in as well.

    Let me say this: HOLY SH*T!!

    The trigger pull is SO much smoother, and it feels like it should have come like this from the factory!! There is still a bit of 'creep' before ignition, but, nothing like before.

    I also polished up the slide rail 'guides' in the frame too (they were not very smooth and had visible casting marks). The slide feels like it is on glass now.

    This is by far the best thing I have yet done to the Glock. I can't wait to hit the range tomorrow and try it.

    Next up will be my G27 - gonna give it the full treatment as well (however, I don't think I'll do the 3.5 disc) on that.

    To the poster who is polishing his G19 barrel - I thought about doing that as well. Are you going full shiny? Would there be any issues with rust or dulling? This my every day carry gun, and would not want to do anything which could negatively affect its performance or reliability.

    Thanks, GT is the best forum!

    Larry
    larrymz3@hotmail.com
     
  12. IPSC G34

    IPSC G34 Sparky

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    While it could produce the same results, very few finishs are are tough enough to with stand a touch with a 36,000 RPM Dremal for any amount of time without coming off. The plating applied at the factory overseas is one of them. The plating being only a surface finish, and not a metal treatment, will still hold all of the imperfections of the metal underneath it. Therefore, we must remove the finish and polish the bare metal to smooth the surface, and with time and rounds the plating will come off anyway due to wear. As for the part being weakened by removing the plating, I've worked with Glock parts enough to know that they are EXTREMELY hard and you will do no damage by removing the plating.
     
  13. Glockster_James

    Glockster_James Man W/ A Badge

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    Okay. :) Thats pretty much answered it all for me. :) Oh the part about weakening it...was just wondering cause I remember one person polished their entire trigger bar and I believe it broke on them. But the thoughts behind it was that it got heated way too much during the polishing and became brittle. Only heard about it happening the one time though.

    Larry, I don't think there will be any problem with rusting or anything of the barrel once I'm done polishing it up. The reason I don't think there will be a problem is because basically I'm just stripping the finish off and then shinning up the exposed metal. And Glocks are treated with the tenifer and my understanding has been that its in the metal to a degree rather than just something ya could wipe off. But also I figure if for some odd reason it did start to show signs of rust, that'll give me enough reason to send it off to Robar to be refinished. But hopefully there will be no problems. ;I