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Sometimes when I go to my range I can't find anything to hang my paper targets on. So I decided I was either going to buy or make a target stand and buy some furring strips to hang my targets on. So my question is:

Should I make my own target stand out of 2x4s or should I buy a steel one and why? If steel, which brand?




ALSO: What do you think about these steel targets?
1.http://www.midwayusa.com/Product/37...nging-target-twin-spin-45-caliber-steel-black

2.http://www.midwayusa.com/Product/426631/caldwell-resetting-target-system-22-caliber-rimfire-steel
 

· Hunc tu caveto
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Mine are a base constructed from 2"x4's and plywood. Shaped like a large "H" with a double crossbar. Approximately 32" front to back and designed to hold two 6-foot 1"x2's upright spaced 23" center to center. Stick in the 1"x2"s and staple on a standard cardboard backer or any appropriately sized piece of cardboard.

Make your base wide enough and robust enough to support the average wind load your range experiences. A 24"x48" backer is a lot of sail area in a decent breeze and can tip over your stand easily. You don't generally need a backer as tall as 48" however they can be helpful if you are instructing someone plagued with El Snatcho syndrome. (Gives them more area to hit and see where their rounds are going rather than missing everything.)
 

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I use one that sounds like Blaster's, but I'm gonna build one from PVC pipe. There are a number of different versions built from PVC.

http://youtu.be/eVxJN03qHTU

I drive a pick up, but I can see how plastic would be nice to be able to take it apart to fit into a smaller vehicle, and plastic won't tear up a car interior like wood can. I'm sure there are advantages/disadvantages either way.
 

· Socially Inept
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· Hunc tu caveto
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I use one that sounds like Blaster's, but I'm gonna build one from PVC pipe. There are a number of different versions built from PVC.

http://youtu.be/eVxJN03qHTU

I drive a pick up, but I can see how plastic would be nice to be able to take it apart to fit into a smaller vehicle, and plastic won't tear up a car interior like wood can. I'm sure there are advantages/disadvantages either way.
I have never tried a PVC stand but I see a few problems with the one in the video.

That PVC stand will work fine if it is placed on a smooth surface like the garage floor in the video. You really need four "feet" at the corners that contact the ground. Otherwise it will be rather unstable on uneven surfaces.

I also like my base to have a decent amount of heft to it. The PVC base looks like it would tip over easily in a breeze (with a target mounted). Trust me, it is a pain in the rear end on a windy day if your target/s keep blowing over.
 

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I try to keep it simple. Paper targets are OK for close range pistol practice and perhaps inital rifle zero establishment.

I like steel plate targets. They make a nice reactive ping or something akin to a bell ringing sound when struck. I got the 3/8 inch AR500 target plate multi-pack Widener's sells for $229 with free shipping. Not a bad deal. I wire wheeled the plates and painted them white.

http://www.wideners.com/itemdetail.cfm?item_id=100000234&dir=1020|1023

I used 6 ft. steel fence T-posts driving them into the ground at opposing angles so they more or less create a "V" and suspected the target plates between the T-posts. The target plates will last a LOT longer if they are allowed to swing and move with the bullet strikes the plate.

I set up a 400 meter range out back and my daughter and I had a blast literally shooting the steel target plates. I got her out as far as 200 meters hitting the IPSC Silhouett plate while she was home for a visit from college. Not bad for someone who rarely gets a chance to shoot.

I used here gun to hit the 400 meter target plate just to prove to her that it could hit it. Next comes 600, 800, and 1,000 meter targets. I have a 5/8 inch thick 15 inch gong and a 12" x 12" square gong in AR500 for those.

http://www.qualitytargets.com/servlet/the-160/Hanging-Gong-BMG-15"/Detail

http://www.qualitytargets.com/servlet/the-150/Square-12"-Gong-Target/Detail


Other folks I know are using welded tube brackets and steel re-bar for target stands which work well too.

http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2447103

http://acetargets.com/
 

· Scottish Member
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I have (3) PVC stands where some joints are solvent welded and others are interference fit. The vertical length of PVC is ~12" where 1" x 2" furring is used to hold the actual target. The dimensions are such that a standard IDPA or USPSA target is (binder) clipped or stapled to the furring strips. The horizontal legs have holes in them so that landscape nails can be driven into the ground if it is windy (sandbags could be used). When collapsed, everything fits in a long duffel bag.

I use them on a typical outdoor range all of the time - they work great as long as you don't shoot them. (Although an acquaintance shot one of mine with a .410 #7-1/2 from about 15-20 feet and it didn't damage the PVC).

I made them in a couple of hours one afternoon and have been very pleased.

If you will PM your email address, I'll send you some pictures. I can't seem to find the link to the basic design I used. I looked at a bunch of designs until I found the one I decided upon. Most of the PVC is 1".
 

· Wallbuilder and Weapon Bearer
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One plastic milk crate.

add 2 furring strips for uprights.

that's it.

:elephant:


I use opposite corners when I want maximum width, and to attach the uprights, I tied a foot long length of PVC into each corner. Furring strip drops right in, easily replaced when shot to pieces. But you can just tie each furring strip to the milk crate if you want to sample the concept before investing $2 into some PVC.

The milk crate is easy to weight down with handy rocks, or bottles of water, but that usually isn't necessary because it's quite stable.

It also holds gear in the truck.

Like most target stands, you either clamp or staple a cardboard sheet to the uprights, then staple or tape a target to that.
 

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One plastic milk crate.

add 2 furring strips for uprights.

that's it.

:elephant:


I use opposite corners when I want maximum width, and to attach the uprights, I tied a foot long length of PVC into each corner. Furring strip drops right in, easily replaced when shot to pieces. But you can just tie each furring strip to the milk crate if you want to sample the concept before investing $2 into some PVC.

The milk crate is easy to weight down with handy rocks, or bottles of water, but that usually isn't necessary because it's quite stable.

It also holds gear in the truck.

Like most target stands, you either clamp or staple a cardboard sheet to the uprights, then staple or tape a target to that.

That's a great idea, Chute.

If you keep the top of the pvc about an inch below the top of the milk crate, the crates will still stack, too.
 

· Adirondacker with a Glock
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(Sorry, photo deleted - see campaign signs below)
 

· Adirondacker with a Glock
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Should I make my own target stand out of 2x4s or should I buy a steel one and why? If steel, which brand?
I made this out of 4 1x2" slats and a piece of chipboard. (Parts easy to replace when shot up.)

It's about 40" tall and maybe 15" wide. Cut feet at 45 degree angle to dig into ground.

Shorter and wider would be more stable in wind.

Campaign signs come in handy too. (Hang targets with clothes pins.)
 
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