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Discussion in 'Reloading' started by catwrench, Feb 26, 2010.
i have come accross it a few times ,help a newbe, KEYHOLING ? just don't get it . catwrench
google is your friend
Think of the projectile hitting the paper sideways.
Oh, right, like you've "never" been to a gay bar?
Kind of hard to determine exactly which word you are referring to...
"newbe", as used on most reloading forums, is an individual new to the art of reloading.
"keyholing", as used in firearms terminology, is a reference to the shape of the hole left in a target by a projectile that was tumbling. Imagine the key hole in an old style lock that used a skeleton key. This, as opposed to a nice clean circle created by a properly spinning projectile.
We won't discuss other meanings outside of firearms....
thanks guys i worded it wrong ,go figure leave it to the newbe. keyholing now i understand , as far as gay bars i steer clear,to each his own but not for me thanks agian guys catwrench
Trying to shoot cast out of my G22 with the factory barrel gave perfect keyholes ...
Cant say that I ever have. And I have been too many of bars in my younger more stupid days.
First of all it's rare. Second of all, as far as I know, it's caused by shooting a projectile through a barrel without enough twist to stabilize it. Shoot a 120 gr. 6mm bullet through a target barrel that has a twist designed to stabilize an 85 gr. bullet and you'll see a "keyhole".
Not sure why a polygon rifled Glock would keyhole with cast bullets.
I never have either....and I think your confused with the term "cornholing"
It happened to me with a 6.5x 55 when i loaded up my first batch with a Lee hand unit. I think i used 4895, not sure. But anyway i was getting some keyholing at 50 yards. I think i still have one of the targets with the hole.
I will scan it and post if i remember. I had underloaded the round as a guy on the bench explained to me, he said to keep the target as a souvenier.
It also happened with some Hornady cast rounds 158 SWC, these rounds i tried to go a little hot with and they keyholed, but i was told it wasnt a good bullet to begin with.
That would be nice to see the target,never seen keyholeing effect.
I'm late to this thread but would just like to say that this is one of the bests posts ever.
It takes a special sense of humor.
Lack of stabilization or bullet spin is the culprit, the cause is something else. In a rifle it is usually from a too heavy bullet fired from too slow of a twist, or reduced loads that do not develop enough velocity (reducing the rate of spin). Fouling can cause it, but that usually happens with cast bullets, though I have seen a pitted barrel fouled so bad with copper that it keyholed(could be multiple problems there) . In a Glock, your shooting cast bullets is most likely the cause if the barrel is stock. The stock barrels have what is known as polygonal rifling, there are no sharp edges at the land-groove junction, they are rounded. With lead bullets, they need to bite into the rifling, and in Glocks they skid a bit, then bite, maybe, and while they are skidding they are leaving behind lead which only compounds the problem. You need to be sure that you have all the lead out of your barrel, if you fire a jacketed(or even lead) bullets out of a badly lead fouled barrel you could bulge it. Another problem, even for traditional rifled barrels , is that I think that a lot of commercial casters make their bullets too hard. Hard cast bullets(not easy at all to peel lead off with your thumb nail) are good for very high velocity loads that force the bullet to engrave the rifling, if the alloy is too hard for lower velocity midrange loads, you get leading again, bullet does not engrave, skids and leaves lead. I have bought cast bullets for 45 acp that were harder than bullets I cast for rifles, and got leading even near max loads. I think part of the problem is reloaders think they need hard bullets (when they do not always ) and the commercial casters make them hard in order to sell them. I knew a guy that did it for about 10 years a long time ago and got tired of it. I prefer to cast my own and use wheel weights mostly, but have used all kinds of lead I have scrounged.
Cleaning you barrel is of utmost importance, and if is badly fouled with lead the nylon brush that came with your gun probably isn't going to get it. A lot of solvents say they will dissolve lead, but few, if any do a really good job. Lyman used to make an abrasive cloth for the purpose, I have had a bunch for years so do not know if they still offer it or not. There are Lewis and Hoppe's lead removers that use caliber specific jags and a copper alloy pipe screen material to scrape the lead out. There are bore pastes that have mild abrasives, such as J&B, that you put on a regular patch. Any way you do it there is going to be some elbow grease involved. If you have a cheap source for lead reloads, you can buy a barrel for about 100$ or so for a cheap one that has traditional rifling.
I have been shooting Glocks since they came out and have not had much luck with lead bullets. The best I have been able to do was with a G-21, 45, I used very strong copper solvent to remove all traces of copper(mixing jacketed and lead bullets during the same session can cause fouling problems in some, not all guns, and to get the best accuracy, we are talking bulls eye match, it is best to stick with one or the other, and the hillbilly way to remove lead is to shoot it out with jacketed, but don't do this at home) and then burnished the barrel with Hoppe's moly paste, about 4x what they suggested, dry patched the bore and shot 600 cast 170 grain bullets from wheel weights in one session with no leading at all, none. Have had 4 G-17s over the years and none of them would shoot lead, though I did not go to the lengths I did with the 45, I just wanted to see if I could do it with that one. Been reloading since the '70s and like to experiment a little every now and then. Good luck
I notice today i do have a little copper on the bore .going to pick up a brass wire bush to see if that will help me clean it up.and also see what they my have at the range sunday in solvent to remove copper. jim
Hoppe's No. 9 will be your friend. Removes copper fouling as well as powder residue.
picking some up today at the range