wensel woodsman vs. magnus snuffer

Discussion in 'Hunting, Fishing & Camping' started by punkture, Aug 25, 2007.

  1. punkture

    punkture

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    last year i used magnus 1 1/2" cut broadheads, which killed about as dead as i've seen any dead deer. however, i've decided to build another dozen arrows and put some magnus snuffers on them (due to our local bow shop just running out of wensel woodsman broadheads). given, the magnus broadheads are not quite as long, are a bit wider, and have the front vents, is there anyone out there that has tried both and has any input on the difference in the two? i can only imagine they'll both result in meat in my freezer, but in reading the comparison on the wensel woodsman FAQ page, they are rather vague:

    "Many broadhead designs look similar. Our Woodsman broadheads are longer than Snuffers, not quite as big around and have no front vents. You wouldn't think there would be much difference, but there is! Test them for yourself. We have."

    To me, that explanation sounded more like marketing than trying to answer a legitimate question...
     
  2. punkture

    punkture

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  3. noway

    noway

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    FWIW:

    I use the magnus and stingers more so than them the snuffers. I can't get the snuffer to fly as good as either of the other, and hand sharping them is ***** more me. I personally think the edge on the magnus is smaller and easily to sharpen and stays sharpen much longer.

    noways 2ct observation.
     
  4. CanyonMan

    CanyonMan In The Saddle

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    I use a 3 blade 'and' a two blade Magnus snuffer, out of medium to heavy pound recurves, ( 55-70 ). They can be a bear, as noway said , to fly straight sometimes.... I found the secret 'for me,' was in the fletching. Right helical 5" feathers, off the shelf, (bear hair rug), they fly "straight as an arrow." (had to say that.....) ;)

    Either of the Magnus are great, i think, but just a little more tweaking here and there for 'the snuffers' sometimes. Could be a "different tweak" for you and your bow, and style et. etc.

    The Wensel, i have found, are extremely good broadheads, BUT, I like to place a little bit of a razor sharp, beveld edge on the point of them, and remove a 'nano degree' of the long nose point. Reason being, that is (believe it or not, a weak spot on this broad head).

    A very learned friend of mine at 3 rivers, gave me the heads up on this one. I don't mean to "make it blunt." no no, just file it to a "very slight cresent shape, 'very slight', and file to razor sharpness, to cut hair on your arm. Now you have a superb broadhead, that will take "bone" much better, without the point caving in on ya.

    Just a thought..... ;)


    Good hunting fellas


    CanyonMan
     
  5. noway

    noway

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    {I found the secret 'for me,' was in the fletching. Right helical 5" feathers, off the shelf, (bear hair rug), they fly "straight as an arrow." (had to say that.....) }

    Care to give you secret up in the type of "cut" of feathers? I just sent you an email. I'm using 5" feathers , RH helical both parabolic,shield, and banna styles. I 've tried true parabolic & shield cut feathers ( w/magnus ) and have had mix outcomes. The shielded seems to produce less noise but wheren't at great with steering the massive BH like that of a magnus.

    please see my email on arrow noises. That should a whole another thread ;)
     
  6. CanyonMan

    CanyonMan In The Saddle

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    punkture...
    Don't come after me with your bow now, I am going to answer "noway's" post, 'above' to his question, (the looong way), and perhaps, there is something in here that may help some others as well... "No intent" to "high-jack." I think everyone here knows me better than that. ;)


    noway, and whoever: (ASK)



    As i said before, I use a set up that i have used for many many years. I have arrow flight sooo quite, i cannot hear it 98% of the time, unless i make a bad release.

    I use a bear hair rug, cut to a perfect fit, on the radius of the shelf. I use a thick leather side plate, on the side window , as thick as 'NEED BE', to ensure stable arrow flight and NO fishtailing. I "only" use a 3 bundle custom (non-fast flight), flemish string, made for me by Linda Brakenbury, in Washington. Her and her husband, (who is dead now), built the famous "Brakenbury bows"), which they have now sold out the name to another maker to carry it on. Linda, cannot even keep up with the demand for her flemish strings, she is probably the most talented sring builder in the U.S.A.

    I am saying all this to bring you to an edifying point. Her string alone, with NO silencers, on my recurves, (given the brace height is "perfect"), this string is so well made in a 'three bundle' twist, i can hardly hear it....

    NOW, when i simply get the brace height "perfect" fo a given bow's
    performance, and add a simple pair of rubber cat whiskers on the string, one above, one below. Place a bear hair rug, cut to fit the radis of the shelf perfectly, and a leather sight window pad sitting even with the top of the bearhair. (the sight window pad must be worked with till it causes perfect arrow flight, thickness varies due to how "center shot" your bow is, and arrow diameter et.), once this is ALL done. And i use a three finger leather bow glove, two under one over the nock. I hold quarter to 50 cent size groups at 25 to 35 yards, and bust nocks off my arrows in practise.





    SOOOO:

    Recurve bow:


    String:
    Is VERY key here to extreme silient flight off the bow shelf, and NO string jumping noise for the game,

    A 3 bundle, Linda Brackenbury "NON-fast flight" flemish string, is the answer, and will last 3,000-5,000 shots, or more.
    Linda's # is 1-541-382-2434. Ask for a " 3 bundle NON-fast flight flemish string". She will give you color options, (i order camo), and she will make you do some heavy measuring on your bow, "while strung up", and ask you a few questions, then build your most wonderful custom string. Two of them for 22.00, will last me several years, and 6,000 to 10,000 shots between the two. You DO NOT want fast flight anything...They are noise makers to the max.

    Brace Height:
    Is 'super critical' as well, to reduce, or even 'eliminate', release noise, and give perfect flight.

    Feathers:
    Right helical parabolic 5"
    NOTE****** Shield, in the right hands, on the really right 'wooden arroes,' and the really right longbow (especially), are great. They can be as well on a recurve... But not usually, and are more difficult to maintain flight with than parabolic.

    Bear Hair rug:
    Gives me total silence.

    Two rubber spider legs: string silencers..(not really needed much with Linda's string, and the correct brace height and all else outlined here.

    Leather Sight window plate: , build in or out to give proper straight flight, with no fishtailing. This too, adds to NO release noise.

    Proper spined arrows: to the "letter" and feather flecthng:
    This adds to NO noise. I use Easton aluminum exclusivly, and 'two blade' Magnus broadheads, sometimes 3 blade of the same kind.

    Proper release:
    You can have all the above, and this will screw you every time, if release is bad. I use two under, and one over, with a leather bow glove, with the string in the first cracks or bends of my fingers, and draw with elbow slightly up and forearm straight, and index finger to the corner of my closed mouth, while arching my back as if to try and touch my shoulder blades together. Both eyes on target, no aiming. One simple quick opening of the string hand, and leave hand to my face until arrow hits target.


    I practice several days a week, with at least 30/50 shots per session. Yardage varies from 20/25/30/35/40. (sometimes more)

    Most all arrows touch, break nocks off, or at least hold a one inch group...... Even at 50 yards, I get perfect arrow flight 99% of the time, (given into account breeze/wind), but, the arrows fly so well, that even then, they are on target. Most kills are pass throughs, some are not. The non-pass throughs are fine, because the animal is running through brush, and wallowing the arrow head inside all over creation, and causes a tremendous ammount of damage, blood loss, and quick death.

    I like the "two blade Magnus the best, or Zwickey, etc, cause two bladers get best penetration.


    Well, this is my set up, and this has always worked for me. I had a deer jump the string "once" in the real early days, so i decided....NO MORE! "Yes it can still happen to us", because of just plain situations....But, I assure you. The outfit I have outlined above, is the "stealth" of recurve bow hunting ! Seriously.


    Remember this though..... ALL the above done the way I outlined, is what gives "me" a near as perfect bow as I can possibly want, but it must 'all' be done. If I Leave out an ingredient, then something is wrong. Like cooking eggs with no butter in the pan !

    Hope this helps!


    CanyonMan
     
  7. groundhawg

    groundhawg

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    ive used and had deer go down within sight with both heads [that can happen with 2 blade also]. both work just fine. mike sohm from magnus says on their site that he uses the snuffer.
    discussion of the pros/cons of the two heads probably best left to campfire beer drinking arguments because you cant go wrong with either head.
    im actually thinking of trying out the 4 blade magnus stingers on my elk trip this year to help with penetration. i have a shorter draw length secondary to a broken arm in 05 so i want all the help i can get.
    punk, did you ever get the longbow?
     
  8. punkture

    punkture

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    i was of the same impression. magnus 2 blade served me well last year, so im not too concerned. as for the longbow, terry is having an archery shoot at his shop in brandon on saturday, september 8. he had had something going on last weekend and was unable to finish the left handed bow he has been working on. he said it will be ready next week or by the shoot so i'm just going to shoot it next weekend and get him to start on mine shortly thereafter (assuming i love it as much as i'm expecting i will). the short answer would have just been (no, i did not get the longbow).