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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok, this is the first time I’ve ever had this happen. I cleaned my G17, put it all back together, racked the slide, pulled the trigger and nothing, it won’t reset or fire. So I went and pulled the slide back so I could pull the slide release down, pulled the trigger as far as it would go and the slide refuses to come off. When I pull it back and forth you can feel it move the trigger, but it refuses to let the slide come off. Now what? How do I get it apart so I can see what I did wrong?
Thanks,
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Does the trigger come all the back?
If not, you will need to take the backend apart, rear cap, striker assembly to release the slide from the frame... If you own a Glock long enough, it happens.
No, It won’t. That’s what I was wondering, at least it’s not hard to get apart. Any idea what it did wrong?
 

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My G29 likes to pull this stunt if the recoil spring pushes just a bit sideways against the barrel, super annoying. Pulling the trigger all the way through, then the slide lock down while releasing the pressure on it works for me. It needs some force.
 

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Yes, I put the 3.5 in, but I’ve done this on my others without issue? What did I mess up?
The connector is most likely bent outward slightly from the tang which inserts into the trigger housing assembly. Try reseating the connector, pushing it in firmly... If it jams-up again, or you feel a slight bind when cycling the slide, then replace the connector.
 

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1. Work over a soft pad in case the slide pops off unexpectedly
2. Try putting forward pressure on the slide and pulling the trigger (probably won't work in your case but still worth a try)
3. Lock the slide to the rear and remove the slide cover plate the same way as if you were doing a full detail strip of the slide. Remove the firing pin and then gently release the slide and remove from the frame
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks everyone, I am 100% positive somehow I put the ever so slightest bend in the connector bar, as it’s not allowing the trigger to full go back to the firing position, but is hanging up on that little notch it’s supposed to fit into to lock it all up and fire. <—— lack of a better description I did get as told by removing the rear plate, firing pin, extractor spring. I just ordered a new connector bar as their cheap and I could spend a bunch of time fixing it, but to me now it’s a liability.
Thanks again!
 

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You can always check the trigger function (set, reset) after trigger work with the slide off by manually cycling the trigger bow as you operate the trigger.
 

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Thanks everyone, I am 100% positive somehow I put the ever so slightest bend in the connector bar, as it’s not allowing the trigger to full go back to the firing position, but is hanging up on that little notch it’s supposed to fit into to lock it all up and fire. <—— lack of a better description I did get as told by removing the rear plate, firing pin, extractor spring. I just ordered a new connector bar as their cheap and I could spend a bunch of time fixing it, but to me now it’s a liability.
Thanks again!
Why don't you just bend slightly the direction it needs to go.

That connector is just a leaf spring- it has to have just enough room on both sides to pop into position correctly. If not it will not reset.
 

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Thanks everyone, I am 100% positive somehow I put the ever so slightest bend in the connector bar, as it’s not allowing the trigger to full go back to the firing position, but is hanging up on that little notch it’s supposed to fit into to lock it all up and fire. <—— lack of a better description I did get as told by removing the rear plate, firing pin, extractor spring. I just ordered a new connector bar as their cheap and I could spend a bunch of time fixing it, but to me now it’s a liability.
Thanks again!
Just give the connector a slight bend. You want it to sit very slightly above the connector housing, so it can act as a leaf spring.

To bend it, put it in the ejector housing upside down (a padded vise would work too). Now push in whatever direction you want to bend. Push about halfway up the bar; if you push at the end it will more bow than bend.

Or as the official party line goes, only a certified Glock Armorer should do anything to your gun, or you will die.
 

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The connector is most likely bent outward slightly from the tang which inserts into the trigger housing assembly. Try reseating the connector, pushing it in firmly... If it jams-up again, or you feel a slight bind when cycling the slide, then replace the connector.
Had the same problem today. Finally our range is open! Got home to clean my G17 and slide would not come off. Removed the slide using your tip (thank you!) for removing the rear cap, etc. I had just put in a Ghost 3.5 just before this virus hit, had not tried to remove the slide after, and then the ranges closed. Put the original connector back in and no problem removing the slide. The 3.5 goes into the "extra parts" bin.
 
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