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Discussion in 'General Firearms Forum' started by ede, Aug 17, 2019.
yes I have the same feeling about using the wax.
For years I've used inexpensive store brand lemon scented furniture spray wax on my firearms. By itself it usually gets into tight spots and crevices better than a paste wax will, but just to make sure it does I use a clean (as in non-oily) toothbrush to make sure it gets where I want it to, then I simply let it dry for a spell, then use a micro fiber cloth to remove the dried residue, taking note of any areas that appear wet, i.e., where the micro fiber cloth couldn't reach, which if found get hit with the toothbrush again so it doesn't build up in these areas. With a light buff all is done until the next time the firearm is fired and requires cleaning.
A side benefit that I've noticed from the use of wax is that it adds a better grip to certain surfaces such as Delrin/other synthetic materials and rubber, and also helps to restore dull and faded plastics and rubbers (LOL).
The point isn't to produce a shiny finish, but rather to add a very thin dry layer of protection from fingerprints, moisture, or the elements that won't come off on your fingers or stain clothing while handling, and that won't attract dust or dirt in the ways that typical lubricants or greases do.
I see what you did there...
Too bad he won’t see what you did there.
My source for wax comes from bees wax in our hives in the back yard.
Great on the inside of holsters if they are a wee bit too tight and great on firearms. Just the warmth from your hands makes application go smoothly.
The only thing I use on the exterior of my firearms is Ren Wax. I haven't wiped a gun down with an oily rag in years.
Before I used Ren Wax, I used Pledge furniture polish. Probably worked just as well. I never had a rust problem anyway.
DuPont makes a lubricating wax, in a blue can. I used it a few times with no problem but I've found any and all oils I've used work just fine.