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Washer won't spin after move?

Discussion in 'The Okie Corral' started by JuneyBooney, Apr 26, 2013.

  1. JuneyBooney

    JuneyBooney

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    So my other Kenmore washer was showing a bad timer and then it blew a fuse and I needed my washer. So I went and got another Kenmore that only had about 30 loads through it at my storage unit. Placed it there after mom died. So U brought it home and it looks new. Then turned it on to do a load of wash, it filled etc and pumps water out but is not spinning.

    I pulled it up to look under it and it is a direct drive model. Looks spotless under it because it is like new old stock. I can't recall if I placed something in a hole to keep the basket from moving during shipping and I can't remember where that would be. Any of you guys know where the little hole is that they make so the basket won't spin but I can hear the clutch moving when on the spin cycle? Any ideas? Thanks again.
     
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2013
  2. uhlawpup

    uhlawpup Gentle Soul

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    Check the lid interlock switch.
     

  3. Peace Warrior

    Peace Warrior Am Yisrael Chai CLM

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    This^, and then if that ain't it, check the outlet's voltage where you are plugging these washing machines into before trouble shooting further.
     
  4. JuneyBooney

    JuneyBooney

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    It pumps out fills but the basket won't move. I pushed the switch with my finger and can hear the motor running but the basket just won't move. :upeyes: The unit has less than 100 loads through it.
     
  5. JuneyBooney

    JuneyBooney

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    The other washer timer had caused a fuse to blow. I fixed that and then went to get this unit and just as luck would have it...it won't spin. :rofl:Man, I just have to laugh at this pain in the butt.

    This one is a Kenmore 11023022100 Some of you guys are good at looking at the schematics
     
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2013
  6. LEO/Dad

    LEO/Dad Navy Veteran

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    This thing broke on my wife's within a couple years. I just wired around it. My wife is usually downstairs when washing anyway, to keep an eye on it. Kenmore parts are notoriously expensive. I am not sure if generic parts fit the hole. The washer's hole.......!

    Does the timer continue to run? Maybe another timer problem, just stuck with all the moving.
     
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2013
  7. JuneyBooney

    JuneyBooney

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    The timer seems to move. The washer drains and agitates and fills but won't spin. The basket won't move at all. My buddy dropped the machine on the steps taking it out the door so I would not be surprised that something happened then. :upeyes:
     
  8. MARKDANIEL

    MARKDANIEL

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  9. F14Scott

    F14Scott Luggage CLM

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    My washer has transportation bolts one installs to prevent the drum from banging around during transport. You didn't happen to install these and forget you'd done it, did you?
     
  10. JuneyBooney

    JuneyBooney

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    That is exactly what I was thinking..but I can't find where they would be? I think I remember doing that but I can't remember if it was the washer or the dryer or both.
     
  11. byf43

    byf43 NRA Life Member

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    First observations would say that the coupler is bad (same part that I mentioned in the other thread.)

    PART NUMBER: 285753
    Substitution #: 285753A

    However, since you mentioned that the machine agitates, that would tend to eliminate the coupler. (The coupler connects the motor to the transmission, and would affect all movement of the basket.)


    What I THINK has happened, is the 'Clutch' has been affected (when the machine was dropped) and not allowing the shaft to turn.

    This is a WAG!!!!!!!!



    ETA: Schematic
    [​IMG]


    The only other thing that I can think of, is the Safety Interlock Switch that's depressed (closed) when the lid is shut.
    The washer should do everything BUT spin.
    I've seen the plastic break and cause the washer to not spin.
    (This happened on my wife's washer, when the basket went 'crazy' from overloading with throw rugs, and the basket became unbalanced!)
    (This is an easy 'fix' until you get parts, IF this is broken. Unplug the washer, lift the top and disconnect the wires from the switch.
    Strip the wires and splice using a wire nut.)
    Tip: Do NOT cut the wires from the washing machine!! Cut the wires between the 'quick coupler' and the switch!!

    Lid Switch:
    [​IMG]


    Sorry. . . . . .The more I think about this, I'm thinking more and more that the Safety Interlock Switch (lid switch) is broken, from the 'drop'.
    Check that first. (Cheapest fix, anyway!)
     
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2013
  12. Dennis in MA

    Dennis in MA Get off my lawn

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    Have you tried moving it back? ;)

    I have zero luck with meka-nickel things.
     
  13. md2lgyk

    md2lgyk

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    Do you have a manual for the washer? Somewhere in the setup instructions would be the location(s) of the shipping bolt(s).
     
  14. JuneyBooney

    JuneyBooney

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    I thought of it. :rofl:
     
  15. JuneyBooney

    JuneyBooney

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    So when I place my hand in and hit the lid switch, the interlock switch will keep it from spinning even if it will load and wash and agitate? Just want to make sure of this before replacing parts. This machine literally looks new so it must have been something from the drop. Thanks


     
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2013
  16. jlprtr

    jlprtr CLM

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    Kenmore is made by Whirlpool, and there is no difference between them except for greed on the part of Sears. Even their shipping and handling charges are inflated.

    Here is an online parts house that also has all the info you could want, including videos on how to replace parts, as well as the latest oem part numbers and trouble shooting forums.

    http://www.appliancepartspros.com/
     
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2013
  17. byf43

    byf43 NRA Life Member

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    It is my understanding, that the only time that the Lid Switch actually acts like an interlock, is when the machine goes into "Spin" mode.

    Our new washer has a locking lid.
    As soon as you press "Start" the lid is locked. (Don't like that, at all!)



    Can you see the lid switch????
    When the one on our old machine broke, the switch actually broke off!! There was just a hole where the switch belonged!

    ETA: Before replacing the switch, make sure that the switch is in place.
    IF it is, 'jumper' the wires and see if the machine runs in the "Spin" cycle.

    IF the machine runs. . . . buy a new switch.

    They're not difficult to jumper or replace.
     
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2013
  18. gigab1te

    gigab1te

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    Assuming you've already checked voltage at the outlet, I'd suggest you set the washer to a spin cycle, and check the leads to the motor with a multimeter to see if it's getting power or not. If the motor is not getting power, it may be a bad selector switch or relay or fuse or some other sensor, which you'll need to check one by one working up from the motor. If the motor is getting power but not spinning, you could have a bad motor or clutch or linkage, or maybe you have the tub bolted in place.

    Good luck!
     
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2013
  19. Adjuster

    Adjuster

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    All through my school years there was a beautiful girl classmate that had a very badly scarred arm. When she was a toddler she stuck her arm inside a spinning washing machine and when she got caught on the clothes it pulled her arm in and tore off the skin. This would have been in the early 70's but I have no idea the year of the washing machine at the time. I wonder when they started adding the safety switch?


    /
     
  20. JuneyBooney

    JuneyBooney

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    Sometime in the early eighties probably. I know that the new machines that my mom got had them and we thought they were pains in the butt but I guess a kid losing their arm would be a good reason for protecting against parents not being parents.